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American Optical Spencer Series 10

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  • vee.doug
    Hello, I m a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc). I would like to explore higher magnification
    Message 1 of 18 , Jun 30, 2010
      Hello, I'm a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc).

      I would like to explore higher magnification with better clarity than I am currently able to get with my eyepiece / objective combination. While the 4x and 10x objectives are clear, the 45x and 100x are poor. I primarily want to observe microorganisms with my kids, and further I want them to have a instrument far better than the little Japanese zoom microscope I had as a boy in the 70s.

      My questions:

      1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10?

      2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives, or is compatibility limited to the eyepieces found in the Model 10 reference manual (ie Cat.#s 133 / 177 / 176 / 184 / 157)

      3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives? Should I stay with AO objectives and eyepieces?

      Thanks in advance,

      Douglas Reedy
      Dublin OH USA
    • mecium.para
      Hi Doug, I m a novice, too, but have some experience with similar equipment. Perhaps someone more experienced could chime in and offer more accurate
      Message 2 of 18 , Jul 1, 2010
        Hi Doug,

        I'm a novice, too, but have some experience with similar
        equipment. Perhaps someone more experienced could chime in
        and offer more accurate information, but this has been
        my experience:

        1. Are your objectives the right ones for your scope?
        Are they infinity objectives, or tl 160mm objectives?

        2. Are your objectives and eyepieces in good condition? Is there any
        fogging or fungus when you shine a penlight through them?
        Fungus will look like spiderwebs. I don't know how to detect
        delamination, perhaps someone on this group could advise you.

        3. Ditto for the condenser.

        4. What are you trying to observe? Protozoans? Bacteria?
        Viruses?

        I have an AO Series 10 with optics similar to yours,
        and have found them far superior to the optics on a
        Chinese scope sitting next to it. Nonetheless, light
        microscopes are fairly limited at this time. Electron
        microscopes are starting to show up on e-bay. If I had
        the time and were a young man, I'd pick one of those up
        and play with it.

        --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > Hello, I'm a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc).
        >
        > I would like to explore higher magnification with better clarity than I am currently able to get with my eyepiece / objective combination. While the 4x and 10x objectives are clear, the 45x and 100x are poor. I primarily want to observe microorganisms with my kids, and further I want them to have a instrument far better than the little Japanese zoom microscope I had as a boy in the 70s.
        >
        > My questions:
        >
        > 1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10?
        >
        > 2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives, or is compatibility limited to the eyepieces found in the Model 10 reference manual (ie Cat.#s 133 / 177 / 176 / 184 / 157)
        >
        > 3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives? Should I stay with AO objectives and eyepieces?
        >
        > Thanks in advance,
        >
        > Douglas Reedy
        > Dublin OH USA
        >
      • psneeley2003
        ... Something is wrong. The 45x should be crystal clear albeit with a much shallower depth of field. You may want to carefully examine this lens to see if
        Message 3 of 18 , Jul 1, 2010
          >>the 45x and 100x are poor<<

          Something is wrong. The 45x should be crystal clear albeit with a much shallower depth of field. You may want to carefully examine this lens to see if encrusting oil, or other matter, is covering the front lens.

          The 100x should also be clear when used with immersion oil. If it is not, again, you may have a bad objective, or one in need of a good cleaning.

          You might want to invest in a 20x -- they are really the best power for many specimens.

          What's good about the 'bad' news above is that AO objectives are quie inexpensive on eBay and you should be able to get another couple of 45x's for instance for little cost -- then you can compare.


          >>1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10? <<

          They are already of very high quality. You are unlikely to get much better - really.

          >>2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives<<

          Better to stick with the manufacturer recommeded eyepiecs I would say. They are plentiful and of high quality.

          >>3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives?

          No

          --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > Hello, I'm a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc).
          >
          > I would like to explore higher magnification with better clarity than I am currently able to get with my eyepiece / objective combination. While the 4x and 10x objectives are clear, the 45x and 100x are poor. I primarily want to observe microorganisms with my kids, and further I want them to have a instrument far better than the little Japanese zoom microscope I had as a boy in the 70s.
          >
          > My questions:
          >
          > 1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10?
          >
          > 2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives, or is compatibility limited to the eyepieces found in the Model 10 reference manual (ie Cat.#s 133 / 177 / 176 / 184 / 157)
          >
          > 3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives? Should I stay with AO objectives and eyepieces?
          >
          > Thanks in advance,
          >
          > Douglas Reedy
          > Dublin OH USA
          >
        • mecium.para
          While we re here, perhaps Mr. Steve could tell us newbie AO user whether the Advanced Plan Achromats are actually any better than the older Plan Achromats.
          Message 4 of 18 , Jul 1, 2010
            While we're here, perhaps Mr. Steve could tell us newbie
            AO user whether the Advanced Plan Achromats are actually
            any better than the older "Plan Achromats."

            --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "psneeley2003" <psneeley@...> wrote:

            ...
          • psneeley2003
            Unknown. I have used a couple of those in the past. But I admit my subjects are almost always drops of pond water, and often the Achromat seems just as good,
            Message 5 of 18 , Jul 1, 2010
              Unknown.

              I have used a couple of those in the past. But I admit my subjects are almost always drops of pond water, and often the Achromat seems just as good, or maybe better, than the Plan Achromat (with its more limited working distance) and the Advanced Plan . .. at least to me.

              So how do we decide if the 'Advanced Plan' was just a marketing ploy to multiply offerings, stratify demands and, ultimately, to increase it?

              We need an honest to goodness former AO employee, who was on the inside, to tell us.

              Wayne Buttermore, where are you!?

              :-)

              --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "mecium.para" <mecium.para@...> wrote:
              >
              > While we're here, perhaps Mr. Steve could tell us newbie
              > AO user whether the Advanced Plan Achromats are actually
              > any better than the older "Plan Achromats."
              >
              > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "psneeley2003" <psneeley@> wrote:
              >
              > ...
              >
            • mattbrin
              Old scopes have great potential and are cheap, but they come with the inherent problems of having to piece together a good combination. I have had both good
              Message 6 of 18 , Jul 2, 2010
                Old scopes have great potential and are cheap, but they come with the inherent problems of having to piece together a good combination. I have had both good and bad objectives pass through my hands. After 30 years, objectives can suffer.

                AO Series 10 scopes take infinity focus objectives with RMS threads, and eyepieces for 23mm tubes (which is very standard). This gives a vast number of available optics you can try. If you avoid apo objectives (fairly rare) and compensating eyepieces, you will avoid compatibility problems. I have found AO optics that are in good condition to be about as good as anything else. I do find the plan achros noticeably better (but not by much) than the achros with the exception that in the 100x, I find the plan achros MUCH better than any cat. 1079 objective I have had. I don't know if I have just had bad luck with the 1079s, or if they really are inferior to almost any other 100x. I find the differences between the advanced plan achros and "plain" plan achros to be so slight as difficult to detect. They give pretty good psychological boost however. :)

                Then there is the problem of your expectations being possibly too high. They only way to find out is to pick up a couple of other objectives and try. You see more detail as you go up in power, but the apparent sharpness decreases. Also as mentioned depth of field goes way down. Lastly, as mentioned, with extremely few exceptions (objectives at 100x made for "dry" use are marked as such and are rare) 100x objectives are useless without immersion oil. The difference is not slight. One barely gets any image at all without the oil. Finally, the right condenser technique makes a big difference. Check out websites such as the nikon (microscopy U) site:

                http://www.microscopyu.com/index.html

                and spend some time with them.

                Lastly, you could have a defective head on the Series 10. This doesn't happen often, so I would look into other things first. By and large AO series 10 bodies are just fine. It is hard and expensive to do much better and then what you are buying is flexibility and not optical quality. The optical quality comes in the objectives and not the body.

                --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > Hello, I'm a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc).
                >
                > I would like to explore higher magnification with better clarity than I am currently able to get with my eyepiece / objective combination. While the 4x and 10x objectives are clear, the 45x and 100x are poor. I primarily want to observe microorganisms with my kids, and further I want them to have a instrument far better than the little Japanese zoom microscope I had as a boy in the 70s.
                >
                > My questions:
                >
                > 1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10?
                >
                > 2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives, or is compatibility limited to the eyepieces found in the Model 10 reference manual (ie Cat.#s 133 / 177 / 176 / 184 / 157)
                >
                > 3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives? Should I stay with AO objectives and eyepieces?
                >
                > Thanks in advance,
                >
                > Douglas Reedy
                > Dublin OH USA
                >
              • TWC
                Douglas, If you would list the Cat. Nos of the objectives we might be able to understand better your problem. Ted
                Message 7 of 18 , Jul 2, 2010
                  Douglas,
                  If you would list the Cat. Nos of the objectives we might be able to understand better your problem.
                  Ted



                  --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
                  >
                  >
                  > Hello, I'm a novice with an AO Series 10 microscope with the usual options (10xWF, 4/10/45/100x objectives, etc).
                  >
                  > I would like to explore higher magnification with better clarity than I am currently able to get with my eyepiece / objective combination. While the 4x and 10x objectives are clear, the 45x and 100x are poor. I primarily want to observe microorganisms with my kids, and further I want them to have a instrument far better than the little Japanese zoom microscope I had as a boy in the 70s.
                  >
                  > My questions:
                  >
                  > 1. First, is it worth upgrading the optics on the AO Series 10?
                  >
                  > 2. Will other AO eyepieces such as the Cat.# 147 (15x) work properly with these "stock" objectives, or is compatibility limited to the eyepieces found in the Model 10 reference manual (ie Cat.#s 133 / 177 / 176 / 184 / 157)
                  >
                  > 3. Are plan objectives a significant improvement in clarity over these achro objectives? Should I stay with AO objectives and eyepieces?
                  >
                  > Thanks in advance,
                  >
                  > Douglas Reedy
                  > Dublin OH USA
                  >
                • mecium.para
                  Douglas, regarding the remark that Steve made about the 45x, a detailed cleaning procedure for objectives is provided in the Series 10 reference manual,
                  Message 8 of 18 , Jul 2, 2010
                    Douglas, regarding the remark that Steve made about the
                    45x, a detailed cleaning procedure for objectives is provided
                    in the Series 10 reference manual, available on Steve's
                    web site, at the following URL:

                    http://www.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm

                    This is your most likely cause, although you should check
                    all optical surfaces. Also, when you use the oil-immersion
                    lens, don't forget to also oil the top condenser lens
                    and place it in contact with the slide!

                    I can't speak about eyepiece compatibility, because the
                    ones that I have been using are from another scope, i.e.,
                    the 146s and 147s, but the image looks crisp and clear
                    to me. Perhaps someone with the "right" eyepieces could
                    give us a comparison.
                  • vee.doug
                    Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and most informative responses. I had originally written additional information, but then felt that my message might be
                    Message 9 of 18 , Jul 3, 2010
                      Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and most informative responses. I had originally written additional information, but then felt that my message might be too long. My Series 10 came equipped from the seller as follows:

                      S/N: 6053xx (mfr: >1966?)
                      #176 10xWF eyepieces (2)
                      1075 4x .12 achro
                      1076 10x .25 achro
                      1078 45x .66 achro
                      1079 100x 1.25 (oil) achro
                      1062 Mechanical Stage (ungrad)
                      108? Condenser (only ident is "N.A.1.25")
                      1036 Illuminator, in-base
                      1051 Transformer

                      Images: http://www.douglasreedy.com/ao10/ao10.jpg

                      Last night I decided to further investigate my issues and it does indeed appear that my binocular head has some haze / fungus on the prism inside. Once removed, I can see the spot(s) through the the lower lens of the binocular head. There also appears to be some haze when I shine a light through the head. At 4x and 10x these aren't readily apparent, but at 45x and higher they simply cannot be ignored.

                      I just read Matt Brin's guide for servicing the head [http://www.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/MicroRepairs.htm#AO Series 10 Head] and am wondering if this will give me the necessary access to the prism and interior lens surfaces. I am fairly confident that I can clean these surfaces with proper care. Are there any pictures available of a binocular head opened up? (I already have the exploded view in the reference manual that came with the scope).

                      I also removed each objective and cleaned the exposed surfaces with a Q-tip slightly dampened with isopropyl alcohol (dried and finished where possible with a lens cloth). This did not appreciably improve the 45x, however.

                      A pair of AO plan objectives (10x & 40x) won on eBay are en-route. I underestimated the market value of an AO 20x achro from the same seller, however. I think I'll continue down the path of replacing everything with plan objectives so I have something roughly equivalent with which to compare the achros.

                      It's pretty exciting to think that I might begin to see some clarity at higher magnifications. Now if only I could just clean my own aged optics so that I don't see all the drifting floaters and spots, which for some reason are much more prominent above 10x. :-/
                    • mattbrin
                      The cat 1022 20x objectives are not that common and go for more. They are also very good (advanced plan achro if you take the designations seriously) if in
                      Message 10 of 18 , Jul 4, 2010
                        The cat 1022 20x objectives are not that common and go for more. They are also very good (advanced plan achro if you take the designations seriously) if in good shape and fill a needed niche in the mag "spectrum." So there is a certain demand. The 40x and 45x are very common (even the plan achros) and are easier to find and cheaper to obtain.

                        Opening the head gives you good access to lenses, but the prisms are dicey. They are glued in and are not what I am willing to mess with. I assume that taking one out then means that you have an alignment problem to deal with. My guess is that without extra equipment (or some extreme cleverness that is beyond mine), the alignment problem is simply too hard to solve correctly. So I have left the prisms alone. I don't have an open head in front of me, and it has been a while since I had one open, but my recollection is that you don't have access to all the relevant surfaces for cleaning. You can clean the ones you can get to, but that might not be very many.

                        If you open the head, watch out for the single ball bearing. Work over a surface that has boundaries (like a bake pan). The one lever connecting the two parts of the head (once open) is very easy to bend, but unless you break it, it is just as easy to bend back.

                        I would ask you to think about the fact that things look good at 10x and 4x, but not 40x or higher. It doesn't sound like a head problem. There is no reason for a head to look dirtier at 40x than 4x. Consider the following.

                        According to Nikon Microscopy U, the resolving power of a typical plan achromat, no fancy glass, 10x objective (which would be somewhat better than the cat. 1076 you have) is 1.10 microns. The same for 40x is 0.42 microns. Through a 10x eyepiece, the 1.10 micron dot as delivered by the 10x objective looks like 110 microns, or .11 mm. Now the 40x objective and 10x eyepiece has the .42 micron dot look like .168 mm or 50% less sharp to the eye. If you go to 100x, then the resolving power is 0.22 microns, and the resulting dot is .22 mm for a 100% drop in apparent sharpness compared to the 10x objective. At higher magnifications, you are seeing more detail, but it will look fuzzier (all other things being equal). Note that the 20x at 0.69 micron resolving power delivers a .138 mm dot. The limits of most people's resolving power is .1 mm so a 20x delivers an image that still looks quite crisp to the eye. This also accounts for their popularity in spite of the fact that they tended not to be standard equipment on "mass market" (MD offices) scopes. They are fun to look through.

                        Also remember that contrast and depth of field also go down as magnification goes up.

                        As for the objectives you are getting, I would not expect the 10x to look very different until you look at the extreme edges of the field of view. Then you might see some difference. If the 40x is in good shape, it might look better in general than the 1078 that you have.



                        --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        > Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and most informative responses. I had originally written additional information, but then felt that my message might be too long. My Series 10 came equipped from the seller as follows:
                        >
                        > S/N: 6053xx (mfr: >1966?)
                        > #176 10xWF eyepieces (2)
                        > 1075 4x .12 achro
                        > 1076 10x .25 achro
                        > 1078 45x .66 achro
                        > 1079 100x 1.25 (oil) achro
                        > 1062 Mechanical Stage (ungrad)
                        > 108? Condenser (only ident is "N.A.1.25")
                        > 1036 Illuminator, in-base
                        > 1051 Transformer
                        >
                        > Images: http://www.douglasreedy.com/ao10/ao10.jpg
                        >
                        > Last night I decided to further investigate my issues and it does indeed appear that my binocular head has some haze / fungus on the prism inside. Once removed, I can see the spot(s) through the the lower lens of the binocular head. There also appears to be some haze when I shine a light through the head. At 4x and 10x these aren't readily apparent, but at 45x and higher they simply cannot be ignored.
                        >
                        > I just read Matt Brin's guide for servicing the head [http://www.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/MicroRepairs.htm#AO Series 10 Head] and am wondering if this will give me the necessary access to the prism and interior lens surfaces. I am fairly confident that I can clean these surfaces with proper care. Are there any pictures available of a binocular head opened up? (I already have the exploded view in the reference manual that came with the scope).
                        >
                        > I also removed each objective and cleaned the exposed surfaces with a Q-tip slightly dampened with isopropyl alcohol (dried and finished where possible with a lens cloth). This did not appreciably improve the 45x, however.
                        >
                        > A pair of AO plan objectives (10x & 40x) won on eBay are en-route. I underestimated the market value of an AO 20x achro from the same seller, however. I think I'll continue down the path of replacing everything with plan objectives so I have something roughly equivalent with which to compare the achros.
                        >
                        > It's pretty exciting to think that I might begin to see some clarity at higher magnifications. Now if only I could just clean my own aged optics so that I don't see all the drifting floaters and spots, which for some reason are much more prominent above 10x. :-/
                        >
                      • TWC
                        Another thing to check is: remove the 45X from the microscope and using one of the eyepieces in reverse as a hand held magnifier hold the 45X up to a bright
                        Message 11 of 18 , Jul 4, 2010
                          Another thing to check is: remove the 45X from the microscope and using one of the eyepieces in reverse as a hand held magnifier hold the 45X up to a bright light and examine the internal lens surfaces with the hand held magnifier. If you find dirt or films, dissemble the objective being careful to keep all lens and spacers in the proper orientation so that correct reassembly is possible. Clean and reassemble.
                          Ted

                          --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "vee.doug" <vee-doug@...> wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > Gentlemen, thank you for your generous and most informative responses. I had originally written additional information, but then felt that my message might be too long. My Series 10 came equipped from the seller as follows:
                          >
                          > S/N: 6053xx (mfr: >1966?)
                          > #176 10xWF eyepieces (2)
                          > 1075 4x .12 achro
                          > 1076 10x .25 achro
                          > 1078 45x .66 achro
                          > 1079 100x 1.25 (oil) achro
                          > 1062 Mechanical Stage (ungrad)
                          > 108? Condenser (only ident is "N.A.1.25")
                          > 1036 Illuminator, in-base
                          > 1051 Transformer
                          >
                          > Images: http://www.douglasreedy.com/ao10/ao10.jpg
                          >
                          > Last night I decided to further investigate my issues and it does indeed appear that my binocular head has some haze / fungus on the prism inside. Once removed, I can see the spot(s) through the the lower lens of the binocular head. There also appears to be some haze when I shine a light through the head. At 4x and 10x these aren't readily apparent, but at 45x and higher they simply cannot be ignored.
                          >
                          > I just read Matt Brin's guide for servicing the head [http://www.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/MicroRepairs.htm#AO Series 10 Head] and am wondering if this will give me the necessary access to the prism and interior lens surfaces. I am fairly confident that I can clean these surfaces with proper care. Are there any pictures available of a binocular head opened up? (I already have the exploded view in the reference manual that came with the scope).
                          >
                          > I also removed each objective and cleaned the exposed surfaces with a Q-tip slightly dampened with isopropyl alcohol (dried and finished where possible with a lens cloth). This did not appreciably improve the 45x, however.
                          >
                          > A pair of AO plan objectives (10x & 40x) won on eBay are en-route. I underestimated the market value of an AO 20x achro from the same seller, however. I think I'll continue down the path of replacing everything with plan objectives so I have something roughly equivalent with which to compare the achros.
                          >
                          > It's pretty exciting to think that I might begin to see some clarity at higher magnifications. Now if only I could just clean my own aged optics so that I don't see all the drifting floaters and spots, which for some reason are much more prominent above 10x. :-/
                          >
                        • drstevedollar
                          Hello; I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well, almost). I purchased the above at an auction and got a pretty good unit. Seems there is a problem
                          Message 12 of 18 , Aug 17, 2013
                            Hello;

                            I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well, almost). I purchased the above at an auction and got a pretty good unit. Seems there is a problem with the trinocular head. I cannot adjust the binocular spacing to fit my eyes. The adjustment knob will not move. I have disassembled to some degree but not the movement mechanism. It appears to be a standard dovetail with perhaps some form of ratcheting or other movement mechanism. It is jammed hard closed. I am wondering if there is any experienced person with advice before I go fully into the innards.

                            There also appears to be some problem with the light/lamp assembly. The ring supporting the lamp is somewhat defective. Are there sources for those assemblies?

                            Thanks for any help
                            Steve
                          • billbillt_2000
                            Hello Steve, Here is a link on adjusting various styles of microscope heads...Maybe it will help..
                            Message 13 of 18 , Aug 17, 2013
                              Hello Steve,
                              Here is a link on adjusting various styles of microscope heads...Maybe it will help..

                              http://ia600300.us.archive.org/17/items/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation.pdf

                              BillT

                              --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "drstevedollar" <stevedollar@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > Hello;
                              >
                              > I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well, almost). I purchased the above at an auction and got a pretty good unit. Seems there is a problem with the trinocular head. I cannot adjust the binocular spacing to fit my eyes. The adjustment knob will not move. I have disassembled to some degree but not the movement mechanism. It appears to be a standard dovetail with perhaps some form of ratcheting or other movement mechanism. It is jammed hard closed. I am wondering if there is any experienced person with advice before I go fully into the innards.
                              >
                              > There also appears to be some problem with the light/lamp assembly. The ring supporting the lamp is somewhat defective. Are there sources for those assemblies?
                              >
                              > Thanks for any help
                              > Steve
                              >
                            • billbillt_2000
                              Steve, Here is another link to extensive data on AO scopes... http://user.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm BillT
                              Message 14 of 18 , Aug 17, 2013
                                Steve,
                                Here is another link to extensive data on AO scopes...

                                http://user.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm

                                BillT

                                --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "billbillt_2000" <2222lab@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > Hello Steve,
                                > Here is a link on adjusting various styles of microscope heads...Maybe it will help..
                                >
                                > http://ia600300.us.archive.org/17/items/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation.pdf
                                >
                                > BillT
                                >
                                > --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "drstevedollar" <stevedollar@> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > Hello;
                                > >
                                > > I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well, almost). I purchased the above at an auction and got a pretty good unit. Seems there is a problem with the trinocular head. I cannot adjust the binocular spacing to fit my eyes. The adjustment knob will not move. I have disassembled to some degree but not the movement mechanism. It appears to be a standard dovetail with perhaps some form of ratcheting or other movement mechanism. It is jammed hard closed. I am wondering if there is any experienced person with advice before I go fully into the innards.
                                > >
                                > > There also appears to be some problem with the light/lamp assembly. The ring supporting the lamp is somewhat defective. Are there sources for those assemblies?
                                > >
                                > > Thanks for any help
                                > > Steve
                                > >
                                >
                              • charles.2211
                                Hi Steve, The usual problem with the IPD knob is that the grease is old and has hardened. See if the tubes move by heating it a little in the sunlight or hair
                                Message 15 of 18 , Aug 17, 2013
                                  Hi Steve,

                                  The usual problem with the IPD knob is that the grease is old and has hardened. See if the tubes move by heating it a little in the sunlight or hair dryer and then try pulling the tubes apart gently from the base.

                                  There are different types of light assemblies. What type of light assembly does it have? A picture of the piece that's giving you the problem would help.
                                  Charles

                                  --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com, "drstevedollar" <stevedollar@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > Hello;
                                  >
                                  > I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well, almost). I purchased the above at an auction and got a pretty good unit. Seems there is a problem with the trinocular head. I cannot adjust the binocular spacing to fit my eyes. The adjustment knob will not move. I have disassembled to some degree but not the movement mechanism. It appears to be a standard dovetail with perhaps some form of ratcheting or other movement mechanism. It is jammed hard closed. I am wondering if there is any experienced person with advice before I go fully into the innards.
                                  >
                                  > There also appears to be some problem with the light/lamp assembly. The ring supporting the lamp is somewhat defective. Are there sources for those assemblies?
                                  >
                                  > Thanks for any help
                                  > Steve
                                  >
                                • Don Coleman
                                  As far as the trinocular head goes, it s pretty much disassemble, clean, lubricate. I can send you the diagram of the head as a jpg If it will help. The whole
                                  Message 16 of 18 , Aug 18, 2013
                                    As far as the trinocular head goes, it's pretty much disassemble, clean,
                                    lubricate. I can send you the diagram of the head as a jpg If it will help.
                                    The whole AO10 manual is probably available through this group. If not ,
                                    I've got that too.



                                    If you will send me, or post to the group, a close-up of the "ring" you are
                                    talking about in the light; there is a fair chance I could have one of
                                    those. There is no real source for parts that old other than old repairmen
                                    like me who are also packrats.



                                    Let me know if I can help.



                                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                  • Chris Albertson
                                    I have three of these AO heads. One is trinocular the other binocular. You can get the binocular ones very easy and cheap on eBay. The trinocular ones are
                                    Message 17 of 18 , Aug 18, 2013
                                      I have three of these AO heads. One is trinocular the other binocular.
                                      You can get the binocular ones very easy and cheap on eBay. The
                                      trinocular ones are slightly more expensive and rare but do show up from
                                      time to time. The parts mostly swap between the two.

                                      The external "shells" are built like tanks with heavy metal parts and the
                                      only thing that goes wrong is the grease dries up after 40 to 50 years.
                                      The best place to buy replacement grease is a "good" bicycle shop, one that
                                      caters to serious riders. They will have a full shelf of modern lubricants
                                      that were not even invented back when this scope was new. Tell the sales
                                      guy you need something "sticky" for low speed bearings. What you use is
                                      really not that critical. The important part is cleaning the moving parts
                                      without messing up the optics.

                                      Getting the optical parts out of the housing is NOT easy and I would NOT
                                      try unless you were forced to. So work carefully. Mask off areas you need
                                      to keep clean

                                      One good tip is to do all your work inside a large 9 x13 cake pan. It you
                                      drop a screw it will be easy to find in the pan, but impossible if it rolls
                                      off the table.

                                      The best source of parts is eBay, buy "junk" scopes. The binoculare type
                                      with missing optics sell for "cheap plus shiping" It is worth buying a
                                      parts-ac. THis is the only source ao special screws and other small custom
                                      parts.


                                      On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 10:24 AM, Don Coleman <pcoleman58@...>wrote:

                                      > **
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > As far as the trinocular head goes, it's pretty much disassemble, clean,
                                      > lubricate. I can send you the diagram of the head as a jpg If it will help.
                                      > The whole AO10 manual is probably available through this group. If not ,
                                      > I've got that too.
                                      >
                                      > If you will send me, or post to the group, a close-up of the "ring" you are
                                      > talking about in the light; there is a fair chance I could have one of
                                      > those. There is no real source for parts that old other than old repairmen
                                      > like me who are also packrats.
                                      >
                                      > Let me know if I can help.
                                      >
                                      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >



                                      --

                                      Chris Albertson
                                      Redondo Beach, California


                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Seth Malovany
                                      Steeve: Go here and download the AO manual you need for the version of AO 10 you have: http://user.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm With Respect
                                      Message 18 of 18 , Aug 19, 2013
                                        Steeve:
                                        Go here and download the AO manual you need for the version of AO 10 you have:
                                        http://user.xmission.com/~psneeley/Personal/Microscope.htm
                                        With Respect
                                        Seth Malovany MT AMT
                                        --------------------------------------------
                                        On Sat, 8/17/13, billbillt_2000 <2222lab@...> wrote:

                                        Subject: [Microscope] Re: American Optical Spencer Series 10
                                        To: Microscope@yahoogroups.com
                                        Date: Saturday, August 17, 2013, 8:44 PM

                                        Hello Steve,
                                          Here is a link on adjusting various styles of
                                        microscope heads...Maybe it will help..

                                        http://ia600300.us.archive.org/17/items/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation/APracticalGuideToBinocularCollimation.pdf

                                        BillT

                                        --- In Microscope@yahoogroups.com,
                                        "drstevedollar" <stevedollar@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > Hello;
                                        >
                                        > I am a newbie to the group and microscopes (well,
                                        almost).  I purchased the above at an auction and got a
                                        pretty good unit.  Seems there is a problem with the
                                        trinocular head.  I cannot adjust the binocular spacing
                                        to fit my eyes.  The adjustment knob will not
                                        move.  I have disassembled to some degree but not the
                                        movement mechanism.  It appears to be a standard
                                        dovetail with perhaps some form of ratcheting or other
                                        movement mechanism.  It is jammed hard closed.  I
                                        am wondering if there is any experienced person with advice
                                        before I go fully into the innards.
                                        >
                                        > There also appears to be some problem with the
                                        light/lamp assembly.  The ring supporting the lamp is
                                        somewhat defective.  Are there sources for those
                                        assemblies?
                                        >
                                        > Thanks for any help
                                        > Steve
                                        >



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