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Mayfly 16 build

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  • dbaldwin1269
    I finally got my pics posted of my mayfly 16 under construction. I almost have the wales done and the bottom is next. I just found a local supplier that will
    Message 1 of 11 , Jun 14, 2014
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      I finally got my pics posted of my mayfly 16 under construction.  I almost have the wales done and the bottom is next.  I just found a local supplier that will sell me 1/2 marine ply by the sheet.

       

      Dave Baldwin

      Palmyra, Nebraska

    • Joseph Stromski
      Nice looking work! You can t go wrong with marine plywood. Another good option on Jims boats is MDO. It paints up really nicely. Best,  Joe  On Saturday,
      Message 2 of 11 , Jun 14, 2014
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        Nice looking work! You can't go wrong with marine plywood. Another good option on Jims boats is MDO. It paints up really nicely.

        Best, 
        Joe 


        On Saturday, June 14, 2014 8:00 PM, "dbaldwin1269@... [Michalak]" <Michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


         
        I finally got my pics posted of my mayfly 16 under construction.  I almost have the wales done and the bottom is next.  I just found a local supplier that will sell me 1/2 marine ply by the sheet.
         
        Dave Baldwin
        Palmyra, Nebraska


      • dbaldwin1269
        I added a few more pics today. getting things perfect so I can move on the the bottom is taking forever. Anyone have a little twist added to their hull after
        Message 3 of 11 , Jul 1, 2014
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          I added a few more pics today.  getting things perfect so I can move on the the bottom is taking forever.  Anyone have a little twist added to their hull after the wales are on?  if so how was it corrected?

           

          Dave Baldwin

          Palmyra, NE

        • Hylton ...
          Hi Dave, looking good coming along nicely. I m no expert but if the twist is only slight I m sure you will be the only one to notice it. I think that to help
          Message 4 of 11 , Jul 1, 2014
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            Hi Dave,
                           looking good coming along nicely.
            I'm no expert but if the twist is only slight I'm sure you will be the only one to notice it. I think that to help alleviate the problem would be to put both wales on progressively.
            OOOpppss I just had a look at the pics  so you have them both on, are they already fastened.
            Cheers
            Hylton  


            Age is a very high price to pay for maturity.










             

             

             

            To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
            From: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 01:08:40 -0700
            Subject: [Michalak] Re: Mayfly 16 build

             


            I added a few more pics today.  getting things perfect so I can move on the the bottom is taking forever.  Anyone have a little twist added to their hull after the wales are on?  if so how was it corrected?
             
            Dave Baldwin
            Palmyra, NE

          • dbaldwin1269
            Im starting to think about decking over the fwd and aft air boxes/storage areas. Jim recomends sealing them with silicone and screwing them on. Just
            Message 5 of 11 , Aug 3, 2014
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              Im starting to think about decking over the fwd and aft  air boxes/storage areas.  Jim recomends sealing them with silicone and screwing them on.  Just wondering if others have done it this way or made them perminantly attached with epoxy?  Not sure if I want to see a bunch of screw heads on my decking...  any suggestions?  Gonna try to post some updated pics too.

            • Mark Albanese
              I ve used no fasteners, epoxy joinery for end decks, cabin tops and such. It s tough to take apart. Mark On Aug 3, 2014 10:06 PM, dbaldwin1269@yahoo.com
              Message 6 of 11 , Aug 4, 2014
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                I've used no fasteners, epoxy joinery for end decks, cabin tops and such.

                It's tough to take apart.

                Mark

                On Aug 3, 2014 10:06 PM, "dbaldwin1269@... [Michalak]" <Michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                 

                Im starting to think about decking over the fwd and aft  air boxes/storage areas.  Jim recomends sealing them with silicone and screwing them on.  Just wondering if others have done it this way or made them perminantly attached with epoxy?  Not sure if I want to see a bunch of screw heads on my decking...  any suggestions?  Gonna try to post some updated pics too.


              • daniel brown
                i think exposed, evenly spaced bronze or brass screws enhance the appearance of end decks if the decks are varnished or prepainted To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                Message 7 of 11 , Aug 4, 2014
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                  i think exposed, evenly spaced bronze or brass screws enhance the appearance of end decks if the decks are varnished or prepainted


                  To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                  From: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2014 00:15:02 -0700
                  Subject: [Michalak] Re: Mayfly 16 build

                   

                  I've used no fasteners, epoxy joinery for end decks, cabin tops and such.
                  It's tough to take apart.
                  Mark
                  On Aug 3, 2014 10:06 PM, "dbaldwin1269@... [Michalak]" <Michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                   
                  Im starting to think about decking over the fwd and aft  air boxes/storage areas.  Jim recomends sealing them with silicone and screwing them on.  Just wondering if others have done it this way or made them perminantly attached with epoxy?  Not sure if I want to see a bunch of screw heads on my decking...  any suggestions?  Gonna try to post some updated pics too.



                • somersailing
                  I used the suggested acrylic caulk to seal my foredeck and was sure glad I did when I had to replace the forward bulkhead after a misjudgment with a mast up
                  Message 8 of 11 , Aug 4, 2014
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                    I used the suggested acrylic caulk to seal my foredeck and was sure glad I did when I had to replace the forward bulkhead after a misjudgment with a mast up and a telephone line encounter. Even with the caulk it lifted pieces of ply when I did the repair. Thank you Jim for a great suggestion as it would have been a much bigger job if I had used epoxy and sailing season is short here is NW Montana.
                  • dbaldwin1269
                    A bulkhead repair would be easier with removable decks. I did the brass screw thing on a prvious boat and it turned out well. Im just not sure I want to go
                    Message 9 of 11 , Aug 4, 2014
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                      A bulkhead repair would be easier with removable decks.  I did the brass screw thing on a prvious boat and it turned out well.  Im just not sure I want to go that rout again.  I guess I could calk it as sugessted and paint over the fasteners so they are less visable.  
                       Today i uploaded some new pics of the build.  I included a couple of pics of how i did the bottom payson butt joint.  Instead of joining two 4x8 sheets together first and then having to man handle a 16 foot piece onto the bottom I cut them to shape and attached them to the bottom of the boat first.  Then I sanded the exterior bottom and ran a line of masking tape on the inside of the joint.  Glass and epoxy went on to the joint next with the tape keeping it from running out of the bottom.of the joint.  After it cured I rekoved the tape from the inside and it seemed to work well.  When the boat gets flipped over it will get glass and epoxy on the inside too.  Has anyone else ever tried this approach?


                    • daschultz2000
                      Certainly you get to choose the look you want. For myself, everything would be workboat finish, for others it s goldplate. We are all correct, cause it s
                      Message 10 of 11 , Aug 5, 2014
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                        Certainly you get to choose the look you want. For myself, everything would be "workboat" finish, for others it's goldplate.  We are all correct, 'cause it's our boat.

                        If you want to do 5200, perhaps you can conceal a few screws.  Or just make the decision that the deck will be sacrificed if you need to open the area up in the future.  IMO it is necessary to be able to open everything on any wood/plywood boat easily for regular drying out.
                      • jmichalsbrown
                        IMO it is necessary to be able to open everything on any wood/plywood boat easily for regular drying out. I ve been staying out since I don t know the
                        Message 11 of 11 , Aug 6, 2014
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                          "IMO it is necessary to be able to open everything on any wood/plywood boat easily for regular drying out."

                          I've been staying out since I don't know the Mayfly, but I have built a Piccup which has the same instructions about not epoxying the decks in place to be able to get access in the future.  I dutifully did so, but to this day don't know what the point is.  My compartments have big hatches and I find it easy to get to every corner.  It has never occurred to me to remove a deck.  I can't imagine taking a deck off to dry out a compartment.  I've built four wooden boats and not come across any similar recommendation.  (I HAVE had to do major wood butchery, but only to deal with rot in the gunwales.)  If I were doing another build, I probably wouldn't bother.
                          Jeff Michals-Brown
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