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Re: Piccup update

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  • Mike
    Andre, I posted some more pictures under Mike s piccup album. I had researched the pivot bolt location early on and I think because it is so close to the seam
    Message 1 of 22 , Sep 11, 2013
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      Andre,
      I posted some more pictures under Mike's piccup album.

      I had researched the pivot bolt location early on and I think because it is so close to the seam and because the lower guard is somewhat narrow compared to the other boat designs I think putting it thru the panel gives it the strongest amount of resistance and I liked the other idea that was mentioned about backing it up with smaller pieces of plywood on the inside to spread the load.

      Glassing leeboard, varnishing tiller /rudder assembly and working on mast yard and boom. Hope to have it altogether by weekend.

      Regards,
      Mike

      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@...> wrote:
      >
      > Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
      >  
      > I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
      >  
      > But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
      >  
      > Thank you all,
      >  
      > Andre
      > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
      >  
      >
      > Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
      >
      > >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
      > >
      > >Andre
      >
    • rudder59
      Andre, Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I m concerned it may still be about an inch lower then
      Message 2 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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         Andre,

         Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.

         

        Regards,

        Mike



        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

        Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
         
        I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
         
        But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
         
        Thank you all,
         
        Andre
        http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
         

        Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:

        >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
        >
        >Andre
      • Martin Houston
        I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well. ________________________________ From:
        Message 3 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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          I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well.

          From: "rudder59@..." <rudder59@...>
          To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:14 PM
          Subject: RE: RE: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
           
           Andre,
           Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.
           
          Regards,
          Mike
          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
          Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).   I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.   But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.   Thank you all,   Andre http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/   Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
          >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
          >
          >Andre
        • rudder59
          Martin, Still getting use to the new Yahoo layout. About how much did you cut away from back of your leeboard ? Any chance of posting a picture. I didn t even
          Message 4 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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             Martin, 

            Still getting use to the new Yahoo layout.  About how much did you cut away from back of your leeboard ? Any chance of posting a picture. I didn't even think about clearing the fender on the trailer. Thanks .


            Regards,

            Mike



            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

            I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well.

            From: "rudder59@..." <rudder59@...>
            To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:14 PM
            Subject: RE: RE: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
             
             Andre,
             Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.
             
            Regards,
            Mike
            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
            Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).   I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.   But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.   Thank you all,   Andre http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/   Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
            >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
            >
            >Andre
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