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Re: Piccup update

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  • Mike
    Looking good Andre! I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
    Message 1 of 22 , Sep 7, 2013
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      Looking good Andre!
      I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
      Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope to assemble it all tomorrow .
      Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post pictures tomorrow night.

      Regards,
      Mike
      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@...> wrote:
      >
      > Short News available on the blog.
      >
      > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
      >
      > All the best,
      > Andre
      >
    • Andre Basso
      Very good Mike ! It seems you re very close to splash date. A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt as well ? Is it possible to
      Message 2 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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        Very good Mike !

        It seems you're very close to splash date.

        A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those parts ?

        I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position and I haven't tested with it in the right position.  Thinking right now that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.

        Andre
        Sao Paulo - Brasil
        http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br



        On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
         



        Looking good Andre!
        I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
        Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope to assemble it all tomorrow .
        Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post pictures tomorrow night.

        Regards,
        Mike
        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@...> wrote:
        >
        > Short News available on the blog.
        >
        > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
        >
        > All the best,
        > Andre
        >


      • Mike
        Andre, I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler. I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components
        Message 3 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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          Andre,
          I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
          I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
          I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
          Mike

          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@...> wrote:
          >
          > Very good Mike !
          >
          > It seems you're very close to splash date.
          >
          > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
          > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
          > parts ?
          >
          > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
          > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
          > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
          > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
          > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
          >
          > Andre
          > Sao Paulo - Brasil
          > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
          >
          >
          >
          > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Looking good Andre!
          > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
          > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
          > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
          > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
          > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
          > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
          > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
          > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
          > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
          > > pictures tomorrow night.
          > >
          > > Regards,
          > > Mike
          > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Short News available on the blog.
          > > >
          > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
          > > >
          > > > All the best,
          > > > Andre
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          >
        • Mark Albanese
          My boat has the nut glued, so that the bolt going through the board is easy to back out.
          Message 4 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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            My boat has the nut glued, so that the bolt going through the board is easy to back out.

            On Sep 8, 2013 2:04 PM, "Mike" <rudder59@...> wrote:
             



            Andre,
            I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
            I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
            I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
            Mike

            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@...> wrote:
            >
            > Very good Mike !
            >
            > It seems you're very close to splash date.
            >
            > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
            > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
            > parts ?
            >
            > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
            > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
            > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
            > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
            > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
            >
            > Andre
            > Sao Paulo - Brasil
            > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
            >
            >
            >
            > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Looking good Andre!
            > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
            > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
            > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
            > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
            > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
            > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
            > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
            > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
            > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
            > > pictures tomorrow night.
            > >
            > > Regards,
            > > Mike
            > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Short News available on the blog.
            > > >
            > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
            > > >
            > > > All the best,
            > > > Andre
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            >

          • Mike
            Mark did you glue the nut to the inside of the side panel and did you use epoxy or glue. Regards, Mike
            Message 5 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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              Mark did you glue the nut to the inside of the side panel and did you use epoxy or glue.
              Regards,
              Mike

              --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Mark Albanese <marka97203@...> wrote:
              >
              > My boat has the nut glued, so that the bolt going through the board is easy
              > to back out.
              > On Sep 8, 2013 2:04 PM, "Mike" <rudder59@...> wrote:
              >
              > > **
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Andre,
              > > I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
              > > I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder
              > > components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was
              > > mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the
              > > rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
              > > I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and
              > > need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the
              > > hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and
              > > was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it.
              > > That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift
              > > the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to
              > > break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either
              > > end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If
              > > you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you
              > > may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
              > > Mike
              > >
              > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > Very good Mike !
              > > >
              > > > It seems you're very close to splash date.
              > > >
              > > > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
              > > > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
              > > > parts ?
              > > >
              > > > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
              > > > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
              > > > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
              > > > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
              > > > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
              > > >
              > > > Andre
              > > > Sao Paulo - Brasil
              > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > > Looking good Andre!
              > > > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
              > > > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
              > > > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be
              > > varnished.
              > > > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
              > > > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
              > > > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
              > > > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
              > > > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
              > > > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
              > > > > pictures tomorrow night.
              > > > >
              > > > > Regards,
              > > > > Mike
              > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Short News available on the blog.
              > > > > >
              > > > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
              > > > > >
              > > > > > All the best,
              > > > > > Andre
              > > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              >
            • Andre Basso
              I ll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don t like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower
              Message 6 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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                I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the leeboard to allow removal ...


                On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                 



                Andre,
                I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
                I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
                Mike

                --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@...> wrote:
                >
                > Very good Mike !
                >
                > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                >
                > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                > parts ?
                >
                > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                >
                > Andre
                > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                >
                >
                >
                > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Looking good Andre!
                > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
                > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                > > pictures tomorrow night.
                > >
                > > Regards,
                > > Mike
                > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Short News available on the blog.
                > > >
                > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                > > >
                > > > All the best,
                > > > Andre
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                >


              • Eugene Dixon
                Hi All   This in ref. to lower leeboard bolt. I have done What JM specified on my JB3 Pivot bolt does not penetrate hull. Lower guard has a notch cut into
                Message 7 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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                  Hi All
                    This in ref. to lower leeboard bolt.
                  I have done What JM specified on my JB3
                  Pivot bolt does not penetrate hull. Lower guard has a notch cut into hull side
                  of guard for nut--no penetration of hull.
                  Eugene

                  From: Andre Basso <basso.asb@...>
                  To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 8:55 PM
                  Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                   
                  I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the leeboard to allow removal ...


                  On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                   


                  Andre,
                  I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                  I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
                  I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
                  Mike

                  --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso mailto:basso.asb@... wrote:
                  >
                  > Very good Mike !
                  >
                  > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                  >
                  > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                  > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                  > parts ?
                  >
                  > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                  > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                  > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                  > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                  > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                  >
                  > Andre
                  > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                  > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Looking good Andre!
                  > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                  > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                  > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
                  > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                  > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                  > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                  > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                  > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                  > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                  > > pictures tomorrow night.
                  > >
                  > > Regards,
                  > > Mike
                  > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > Short News available on the blog.
                  > > >
                  > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                  > > >
                  > > > All the best,
                  > > > Andre
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >

                • Mark Albanese
                  Yes. Inside is right. But... There s added reinforcement on the side panel in way of the leeboard to prevent twist in the form of some 1/4 x 3 1/2 strips
                  Message 8 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
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                    Yes. Inside is right. But... There's added reinforcement on the side panel in way of the leeboard to prevent twist in the form of some 1/4" x 3 1/2" strips making a big sideways H that intersects the butt strap.

                    This is like what is shown in the JBjr plans for the oarlock reinforcements, only longer and centered around the butt strap.

                    The nut is set into that with silicon sealer. No leaks.
                    markA

                    On Sep 8, 2013 6:44 PM, "Mike" <rudder59@...> wrote:
                     



                    Mark did you glue the nut to the inside of the side panel and did you use epoxy or glue.
                    Regards,
                    Mike

                    --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Mark Albanese <marka97203@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > My boat has the nut glued, so that the bolt going through the board is easy
                    > to back out.
                    > On Sep 8, 2013 2:04 PM, "Mike" <rudder59@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > > **
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > Andre,
                    > > I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                    > > I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder
                    > > components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was
                    > > mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the
                    > > rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
                    > > I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and
                    > > need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the
                    > > hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and
                    > > was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it.
                    > > That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift
                    > > the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to
                    > > break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either
                    > > end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If
                    > > you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you
                    > > may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
                    > > Mike
                    > >
                    > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > Very good Mike !
                    > > >
                    > > > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                    > > >
                    > > > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                    > > > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                    > > > parts ?
                    > > >
                    > > > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                    > > > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                    > > > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                    > > > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                    > > > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                    > > >
                    > > > Andre
                    > > > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                    > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Looking good Andre!
                    > > > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                    > > > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                    > > > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be
                    > > varnished.
                    > > > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                    > > > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                    > > > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                    > > > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                    > > > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                    > > > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                    > > > > pictures tomorrow night.
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Regards,
                    > > > > Mike
                    > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Short News available on the blog.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > All the best,
                    > > > > > Andre
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    >

                  • Mark Albanese
                    Simpler for me to say my nut is inside, let into the butt strap, just in line with the pivot.
                    Message 9 of 22 , Sep 8, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment

                      Simpler for me to say my nut is inside, let into the butt strap, just in line with the pivot.

                      On Sep 8, 2013 7:31 PM, "Eugene Dixon" <edixon193941@...> wrote:
                       

                      Hi All
                        This in ref. to lower leeboard bolt.
                      I have done What JM specified on my JB3
                      Pivot bolt does not penetrate hull. Lower guard has a notch cut into hull side
                      of guard for nut--no penetration of hull.
                      Eugene

                      From: Andre Basso <basso.asb@...>
                      To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 8:55 PM
                      Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                       
                      I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the leeboard to allow removal ...


                      On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                       


                      Andre,
                      I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                      I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
                      I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw.
                      Mike

                      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso mailto:basso.asb@... wrote:
                      >
                      > Very good Mike !
                      >
                      > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                      >
                      > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                      > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                      > parts ?
                      >
                      > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                      > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                      > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                      > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                      > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                      >
                      > Andre
                      > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                      > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > Looking good Andre!
                      > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                      > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                      > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished.
                      > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                      > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                      > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                      > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                      > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                      > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                      > > pictures tomorrow night.
                      > >
                      > > Regards,
                      > > Mike
                      > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                      > > >
                      > > > Short News available on the blog.
                      > > >
                      > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                      > > >
                      > > > All the best,
                      > > > Andre
                      > > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      >

                    • Matti Asikainen
                      I´m not sure if this was discussed yet: I heard from Chuck Leinweber that he makes a template of ply of the leeboard to test that the position of the pivot
                      Message 10 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
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                        I´m not sure if this was discussed yet: I heard from Chuck Leinweber that he makes a template of ply of the leeboard to test that the position of the pivot polt will be correct. So the template doesn´t need to as long as the real leeboard (and not laminated either) so you don´t even need to lift up the boat for the test. I´m coming soon to that procedure with my Ladybug.
                      • Mike
                        I considered that on the piccup and wondered why JM penetrated the hull with the pivot bolt. I think because the upper Leeboard perhaps is narrow on the
                        Message 11 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                          I considered that on the piccup and wondered why JM penetrated the hull with the pivot bolt. I think because the upper Leeboard perhaps is narrow on the smaller boat and penetrating the hull also allows the side panel to be used to minimize twist due to pressure on the leeboard when in use.

                          Andre based on the plans the pivot bolt will actually sit just a few inches above the waterline. I think if you fill the hole with sealant when your putting the bolt in and keep the hole to the proper dimensions you should be ok. Between the sealant and the wood swelling you should be able to minimize water getting in.

                          I like the idea of putting a few smaller strips of wood on the inside also to spread out the tension on the bolt.
                          Mike

                          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Eugene Dixon <edixon193941@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > Hi All
                          >   This in ref. to lower leeboard bolt.
                          > I have done What JM specified on my JB3
                          > Pivot bolt does not penetrate hull. Lower guard has a notch cut into hull side
                          > of guard for nut--no penetration of hull.
                          > Eugene
                          >
                          >
                          > ________________________________
                          > From: Andre Basso <basso.asb@...>
                          > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                          > Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 8:55 PM
                          > Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                          >
                          >  
                          >
                          > I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the leeboard to allow removal ...
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                          >
                          >  
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >Andre,
                          > >I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel
                          > doubler.
                          > >I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons
                          > with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I
                          > coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the
                          > actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade
                          > dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered.
                          > >I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I
                          > glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to
                          > mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard
                          > but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was
                          > thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather
                          > than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could
                          > back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the
                          > upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the
                          > pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on
                          > either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing
                          > the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may
                          > have hardened around the threads and you may be able to
                          > back it out of that like a screw.
                          > >Mike
                          > >
                          > >--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso mailto:basso.asb@ wrote:
                          > >>
                          > >> Very good Mike !
                          > >>
                          > >> It seems you're very close to splash date.
                          > >>
                          > >> A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard
                          > and the pivot bolt
                          > >> as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard
                          > without damaging those
                          > >> parts ?
                          > >>
                          > >> I ask because I could not find a way to do this
                          > yesterday. I realized
                          > >> the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was
                          > in wrong position
                          > >> and I haven't tested with it in the right position.
                          > Thinking right now
                          > >> that maybe leeboard can come off if raised
                          > completely. Not sure about
                          > >> that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                          > >>
                          > >> Andre
                          > >> Sao Paulo - Brasil
                          > >> http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                          > >>
                          > >>
                          > >>
                          > >> On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                          > >> >
                          > >> >
                          > >> >
                          > >> > Looking good Andre!
                          > >> > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy
                          > with brush and noticed
                          > >> > some bare spots on gunwale where I had
                          > varnished. Brushed them with
                          > >> > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were
                          > supposed to be varnished.
                          > >> > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder
                          > cheeks slightly due to
                          > >> > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder
                          > cheeks and tiller. Hope
                          > >> > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                          > >> > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware
                          > from in 1976. Reused
                          > >> > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to
                          > use the tiller so I
                          > >> > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit
                          > properly. Will post
                          > >> > pictures tomorrow night.
                          > >> >
                          > >> > Regards,
                          > >> > Mike
                          > >> > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                          > >> > >
                          > >> > > Short News available on the blog.
                          > >> > >
                          > >> > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/
                          > >> > >
                          > >> > > All the best,
                          > >> > > Andre
                          > >> > >
                          > >> >
                          > >> >
                          > >>
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                        • tlclarke1414
                          Andre, Another option which Michalak shows in other designs is to drill a vertical hole, maybe one inch in diameter down through the lower guard as close to
                          Message 12 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Andre,

                            Another option which Michalak shows in other designs is to drill a vertical hole, maybe one inch in diameter down through the lower guard as close to the hull as possible and in line with the pivot bolt hole.
                            Jam the pivot bolt nut into the new hole so that the pivot bolt screws into the nut.
                            By doing this, you eliminate the hole in the hull.

                            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water
                            > frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the
                            > wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the
                            > leeboard to allow removal ...
                            >
                            >
                            > On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                            > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            > > Andre,
                            > > I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                            > > I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the
                            > > rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the
                            > > rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and
                            > > gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg
                            > > when lowered.
                            > > I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next
                            > > and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I
                            > > drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in
                            > > the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt
                            > > rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back
                            > > out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard
                            > > guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you
                            > > glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first
                            > > then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may
                            > > have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of
                            > > that like a screw.
                            > > Mike
                            > >
                            > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
                            > > >
                            > > > Very good Mike !
                            > > >
                            > > > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                            > > >
                            > > > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                            > > > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                            > > > parts ?
                            > > >
                            > > > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                            > > > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                            > > > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                            > > > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                            > > > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                            > > >
                            > > > Andre
                            > > > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                            > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > >
                            > > > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Looking good Andre!
                            > > > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                            > > > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                            > > > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be
                            > > varnished.
                            > > > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                            > > > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                            > > > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                            > > > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                            > > > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                            > > > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                            > > > > pictures tomorrow night.
                            > > > >
                            > > > > Regards,
                            > > > > Mike
                            > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Short News available on the blog.
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                            > > > > >
                            > > > > > All the best,
                            > > > > > Andre
                            > > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > > >
                            > > >
                            > >
                            > >
                            >
                          • alan enlow
                            Eugene,     How do you attach the lower guard to the hull?     Alan ________________________________ From: Eugene Dixon To:
                            Message 13 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Eugene,
                               
                                How do you attach the lower guard to the hull?
                               
                                Alan

                              From: Eugene Dixon <edixon193941@...>
                              To: "Michalak@yahoogroups.com" <Michalak@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 9:30 PM
                              Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                               
                              Hi All
                                This in ref. to lower leeboard bolt.
                              I have done What JM specified on my JB3
                              Pivot bolt does not penetrate hull. Lower guard has a notch cut into hull side
                              of guard for nut--no penetration of hull.
                              Eugene

                              From: Andre Basso <basso.asb@...>
                              To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2013 8:55 PM
                              Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                               
                              I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the leeboard to allow removal ...
                              On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                               
                              Andre, I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler. I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg when lowered. I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of that like a screw. Mike --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso mailto:basso.asb@... wrote: > > Very good Mike ! > > It seems you're very close to splash date. > > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those > parts ? > > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it. > > Andre > Sao Paulo - Brasil > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/ > > > > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote: > > > > > > > > Looking good Andre! > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be varnished. > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope > > to assemble it all tomorrow . > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post > > pictures tomorrow night. > > > > Regards, > > Mike > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote: > > > > > > Short News available on the blog. > > > > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/ > > > > > > All the best, > > > Andre > > > > > > > >
                            • Andre
                              Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an
                              Message 14 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.

                                Andre

                                tlclarke1414 <tlclarke@...> escreveu:

                                 

                                Andre,

                                Another option which Michalak shows in other designs is to drill a vertical hole, maybe one inch in diameter down through the lower guard as close to the hull as possible and in line with the pivot bolt hole.
                                Jam the pivot bolt nut into the new hole so that the pivot bolt screws into the nut.
                                By doing this, you eliminate the hole in the hull.

                                --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@...> wrote:
                                >
                                > I'll have to think over what I did. Pivot bolt will be under water
                                > frequently and I don't like the idea of water flooding constantly the
                                > wood of the lower guard and side panel. Maybe a looser hole on the
                                > leeboard to allow removal ...
                                >
                                >
                                > On 08-09-2013 18:04, Mike wrote:
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > Andre,
                                > > I glued and bolted the upper Leeboard guard to the walel doubler.
                                > > I spent today shaping the tiller and mounting the gudgeons with the
                                > > rudder components temporarily assembled so I coild make sure the
                                > > rudder was mounted level. I offset the actual rudder cheek and
                                > > gudgeons so that the rudder blade dropped directly behind the skeg
                                > > when lowered.
                                > > I'm going to work on shaping the mast from the wood I glued up next
                                > > and need to raise the boat about a foot to mount the Leeboard. I
                                > > drilled the hole in the lower guard but didn't drill the hole yet in
                                > > the Leeboard and was thinking of just tightening down the pivot bolt
                                > > rather than gluing it. That way if you had to remove it you could back
                                > > out the pivot bolt and lift the leeboard up thru the upper Leeboard
                                > > guard. You may still be able to break the pivot bolt loose even if you
                                > > glued it with a wrench on either end. try tightening it slightly first
                                > > then backing the nut off of it. If you get the nut off the glue may
                                > > have hardened around the threads and you may be able to back it out of
                                > > that like a screw.
                                > > Mike
                                > >
                                > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
                                > > >
                                > > > Very good Mike !
                                > > >
                                > > > It seems you're very close to splash date.
                                > > >
                                > > > A question: have you glued the upper leeboard guard and the pivot bolt
                                > > > as well ? Is it possible to remove the leeboard without damaging those
                                > > > parts ?
                                > > >
                                > > > I ask because I could not find a way to do this yesterday. I realized
                                > > > the hole I drilled for pivot bolt in the leeboard was in wrong position
                                > > > and I haven't tested with it in the right position. Thinking right now
                                > > > that maybe leeboard can come off if raised completely. Not sure about
                                > > > that. I'll have to go back to shipyard and check it.
                                > > >
                                > > > Andre
                                > > > Sao Paulo - Brasil
                                > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > >
                                > > > On 07-09-2013 23:43, Mike wrote:
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Looking good Andre!
                                > > > > I started rushing too and while applying epoxy with brush and noticed
                                > > > > some bare spots on gunwale where I had varnished. Brushed them with
                                > > > > the wetted epoxy brush not realizing they were supposed to be
                                > > varnished.
                                > > > > Got the hardware back and had to modify rudder cheeks slightly due to
                                > > > > thickness of pintles. Epoxied rudder, rudder cheeks and tiller. Hope
                                > > > > to assemble it all tomorrow .
                                > > > > Tiller is from day sailer that I kept hardware from in 1976. Reused
                                > > > > the hardware and didn't feel right not to try to use the tiller so I
                                > > > > laminated some marine ply on end to make it fit properly. Will post
                                > > > > pictures tomorrow night.
                                > > > >
                                > > > > Regards,
                                > > > > Mike
                                > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@> wrote:
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Short News available on the blog.
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > Http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                > > > > >
                                > > > > > All the best,
                                > > > > > Andre
                                > > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > > >
                                > > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                >

                              • Mike
                                Matti That s a great idea! I just had a neighbor help me lift mine high enough to work on larger Leeboard.It s much easier working on boat when it is
                                Message 15 of 22 , Sep 9, 2013
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                                  Matti
                                  That's a great idea! I just had a neighbor help me lift mine high enough to work on larger Leeboard.It's much easier working on boat when it is positioned lower. Did he provide a description or directions on making the template?.

                                  Regards,
                                  Mike
                                  --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Matti Asikainen <matti.asikainen51@...> wrote:
                                  >
                                  > I´m not sure if this was discussed yet: I heard from Chuck Leinweber that
                                  > he makes a template of ply of the leeboard to test that the position of the
                                  > pivot polt will be correct. So the template doesn´t need to as long as the
                                  > real leeboard (and not laminated either) so you don´t even need to lift up
                                  > the boat for the test. I´m coming soon to that procedure with my Ladybug.
                                  >
                                • Andre
                                  Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it
                                  Message 16 of 22 , Sep 11, 2013
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                                    Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
                                     
                                    I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
                                     
                                    But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
                                     
                                    Thank you all,
                                     
                                    Andre
                                    http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                     

                                    Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:

                                    >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                    >
                                    >Andre
                                  • Mike
                                    Andre, I posted some more pictures under Mike s piccup album. I had researched the pivot bolt location early on and I think because it is so close to the seam
                                    Message 17 of 22 , Sep 11, 2013
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                                      Andre,
                                      I posted some more pictures under Mike's piccup album.

                                      I had researched the pivot bolt location early on and I think because it is so close to the seam and because the lower guard is somewhat narrow compared to the other boat designs I think putting it thru the panel gives it the strongest amount of resistance and I liked the other idea that was mentioned about backing it up with smaller pieces of plywood on the inside to spread the load.

                                      Glassing leeboard, varnishing tiller /rudder assembly and working on mast yard and boom. Hope to have it altogether by weekend.

                                      Regards,
                                      Mike

                                      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
                                      >  
                                      > I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
                                      >  
                                      > But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
                                      >  
                                      > Thank you all,
                                      >  
                                      > Andre
                                      > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                      >  
                                      >
                                      > Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
                                      >
                                      > >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                      > >
                                      > >Andre
                                      >
                                    • Mike
                                      Andre, MY email is acting flaky again. Added pictures to album up through the leeboard mounts. Regards, Mike
                                      Message 18 of 22 , Sep 11, 2013
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                                        Andre,
                                        MY email is acting flaky again. Added pictures to album up through the leeboard mounts.

                                        Regards,
                                        Mike
                                        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre <basso.asb@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
                                        >  
                                        > I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
                                        >  
                                        > But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
                                        >  
                                        > Thank you all,
                                        >  
                                        > Andre
                                        > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                        >  
                                        >
                                        > Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
                                        >
                                        > >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                        > >
                                        > >Andre
                                        >
                                      • rudder59
                                        Andre, Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I m concerned it may still be about an inch lower then
                                        Message 19 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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                                           Andre,

                                           Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.

                                           

                                          Regards,

                                          Mike



                                          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                          Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).
                                           
                                          I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.
                                           
                                          But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.
                                           
                                          Thank you all,
                                           
                                          Andre
                                          http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
                                           

                                          Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:

                                          >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                          >
                                          >Andre
                                        • Martin Houston
                                          I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well. ________________________________ From:
                                          Message 20 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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                                            I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well.

                                            From: "rudder59@..." <rudder59@...>
                                            To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                                            Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:14 PM
                                            Subject: RE: RE: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                                             
                                             Andre,
                                             Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.
                                             
                                            Regards,
                                            Mike
                                            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                                            Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).   I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.   But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.   Thank you all,   Andre http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/   Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
                                            >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                            >
                                            >Andre
                                          • rudder59
                                            Martin, Still getting use to the new Yahoo layout. About how much did you cut away from back of your leeboard ? Any chance of posting a picture. I didn t even
                                            Message 21 of 22 , Sep 16, 2013
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                                               Martin, 

                                              Still getting use to the new Yahoo layout.  About how much did you cut away from back of your leeboard ? Any chance of posting a picture. I didn't even think about clearing the fender on the trailer. Thanks .


                                              Regards,

                                              Mike



                                              --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                              I cut a curve in the back side my lee board so it can come up farther & clear the trailer fender. Still works well.

                                              From: "rudder59@..." <rudder59@...>
                                              To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
                                              Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:14 PM
                                              Subject: RE: RE: [Michalak] Re: Piccup update
                                               
                                               Andre,
                                               Saw your latest pictures, looks good! I have opposite concern with leeboard. When I pull it up I'm concerned it may still be about an inch lower then the hull ( went with the larger leeboard) .if it does then the boat will drag on the leeboard if I beach it. Going to check one more time and if it does may notch back edge of leeboard where it touches upper leeboard guard so that it can come up another inch or two. keep at it your almost in the water.
                                               
                                              Regards,
                                              Mike
                                              --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, <michalak@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                                              Yesterday I made some tests on field. It turned out that it is possible to remove the leeboard just raising it totally and twisting it a little. I concluded it will depend a lot of the vertical position you bolt the upper guard to hull and the final format you give to it. Mine was just right (by chance).   I’ll keep with the pivot bolt epoxied through hull as JM designed for Piccup.   But all answers to the question were very helpful to improve thinking and future options.   Thank you all,   Andre http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br/   Andre <basso.asb@...> escreveu:
                                              >Interesting option. As I have alredy epoxied bolt to hull first option would be leave it there and see what happens. This one seems a great way to fixing an eventual leak.
                                              >
                                              >Andre
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