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  • prairiedog2332
    Steven, These are very good sources of information based on what I have read and heard about from other sources I have looked into. From your most recent link
    Message 1 of 11 , Aug 5 3:23 PM

      These are very good sources of information based on what I have read and
      heard about from other sources I have looked into. From your most recent
      link it mentions that "....vinyl ester resin does exceed both polyester
      and epoxy in corrosion resistance, temperature resistance, and
      elongation (toughness)." The last point was confirmed by a visit I made
      to the leading canoe manufacturer here in BC. I was told it means it is
      a coating that is not as "brittle" as epoxy when struck by an outside
      object. So is preferred by them in all their whitewater and expedition
      canoe layups. Less prone to UV damage as well. At first I sort of
      wondered it it was to save some $ but was assured they have tried epoxy
      and consider vinylester better and stake their reputation on it.

      Your link also confirms for me that using unwaxed esters means you can
      apply several applications with no need to do anything between so long
      as the final one is waxed finishing resin. Each application fully bonds
      once the final one is applied. Yet you apply an application of epoxy
      over a previous application that has fully kicked off then you have to
      wash off any amine blush and sand it to give it some tooth. So the
      following applications are only a mechanical bond - strong though it may
      be - and requires additional work.

      When using unwaxed esters on taped seams inside the chines, you can
      pre-coat the plywood first with thinned resin along the width where the
      the tape will be set into, apply the putty and smooth it out, then lay
      in the the glass tape and fill the weave and add some waxed as a final
      application all in a continuous operation. Then only have to sand off
      the wax prior to painting. This is why Payson liked doing it with
      polyester resin. Pre-impreging the wood I think was a secret to getting
      a strong joint. But if you use waxed resin for that then all bets are

      My thinking is that regular polyester will work on a small hull and if a
      first time builder. But getting into larger hulls that require more
      strength then vinylester is worth considering. It is twice the cost of
      poly per gallon up here but still half the price of epoxy.


      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Steven" wrote:
      > I should have also included this reference from another manufacturer
      > http://www.fibreglast.com/product/about-resins
      > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Steven" sdantonio93@ wrote:
      > >
      > > Has anyone used the vinylester these guys make. They seem to claim
      it is superior to polyester for boatbuilding and appears to be just as
      user friendly (if user friendly is the correct word) and costs the same
      as the polyester (about 1/3 the cost of epoxy)
      > >
      > > This is their tech guide
      > >
      > > http://www.lbifiberglass.com/TECH/techresin.html
      > >
      > > this is their home page
      > >
      > > http://www.lbifiberglass.com/CATEGORY/category.html
      > >
      > > Steven
      > >

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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