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Re: Sealant

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  • Allan
    Mate,291 with bolts properly spaced around the edge should be fine. The failure of your first attempt is probably related to prep work.291 is fairly
    Message 1 of 23 , Jun 1, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      Mate,291 with bolts properly spaced around the edge should be fine.

      The failure of your first attempt is probably related to prep work.291 is fairly forgiving,but if you take the time to study Sika's tech specs you will see they,like all manufacturers, are strong on correct prep,which is,after all,what we should all aim for.Works out cheaper & less grief in the long run.

      Al.

      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@...> wrote:
      >
      > Al. I have left the bolts in as you suggest and see no reason to remove them. I used the product as recommended by the local well thought of agent. Even the experts can make mistakes ... I will take a look at the product you mention for future use. Thanks,
      >
      > Dennis
      >
      > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
      > From: allanburke45@...
      > Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 05:48:17 +0000
      > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant
      >
      >
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      > Dennis,
      >
      >
      >
      > I think you'll find you need to leave the small bolts in permanently,evenly spaced all round the window frame.I have re-newed plastic windows in a couple of f/glass yachts I've had over the years & re-used the small bolts which have to be tensioned carefully & evenly just enough to see the uncured Sikaflex squeeze out a little to form an even seal all round.
      >
      >
      >
      > Also, perhaps you should have used Sikaflex 295U which is specially formulated for fixing plastic windows & performs a little differently from 291.Have a look at Sika's spec sheets.They have a wide range of products tailored to specific applications.
      >
      >
      >
      > Cheers
      >
      >
      >
      > Al.
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@> wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > I used 291 at the recommended sealant / adhesive to attach plexiglas windows in a one sided window frame. They were secured in position until the 291 set. A year later the plexi was falling out and I had to redo them. This time I left the ss bolts in place. There may have been an issue of different rates of expansion / contraction but the elasticity of the 291 should have handled that IMO ..
      >
      > >
      >
      > > Dennis
      >
      > >
      >
      > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > > From: allanburke45@
      >
      > > Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 06:07:38 +0000
      >
      > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant
      >
      > >
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      > > Mike,
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > Use Sikaflex291.It's designed to glue & seal but does not set hard so you can slice it off with a sturdy knife if you have to remove decks,seats etc down the track to do repairs.This way you can re-use them.Countersink screws if you want,but you don't really need them to stay in as this stuff really hangs on.Better to use temporary screws till the Sikaflex sets then remove them & fill & fair the holes.Simple.
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > This product,& some of its relatives, is used widely in commercial boat building for things like hull to deck joins in fibreglass boats,& mounting winches & other deck hardware so everything can be removed if need be for maintenance/repair.
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > I have some pics of the hatch seal on my Ladybug towards the end of a whole stack of pics in Duckworks forum & a pic of the rubber seal product I used that I found in the window seal section of my local hardware store.Never had a drop inside the storage compartments in 3 years of wet sailing.Ladybug is a very wet boat when sailed hard in strong breezes & because she doesn't even look like capsizing I seem to push her harder.Never had to reef.Look for "Ausie Ladybug" by absube(my Yahoo name).
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > Al Burke
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <rudder59@> wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > Andre
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > Looks great. You got a lot done!let me know how you make out with sealing decks and hatches as that's my next step.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > Regards
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > Mike
      >
      > >
      >
      > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > Nels,
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > I prefer the look of the decks without screws. In this case do you think
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > silicone alone will keep things together ?
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > I really like the look of the square ports. But I'm building it per
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > plans. No double framing.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > Check my progress at
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > Andre.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > On 26-05-2013 22:46, prairiedog2332 wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > In Jim's build book he recommends plain old silicone sealant so the
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > decks are removable and just screwed in place. This way the interiors
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > of the flotation boxes can be repaired, resealed or repainted. I would
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > use finish washers with the screws. Access ports square, small with
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > double overlapping framing so no leakage, held down with bungie cords
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > in a triangular fashion over a hook. Even some sea kayakers here like
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > the bungies added to their expensive kayak access ports. And you can
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > stuff items under the bungies as well so items don't fall overboard.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > Kayakers love bungies!
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > Nels
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > "Allan" wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
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      > >
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      > > > > > >
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      > >
      >
      > > > > > > Andre,
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > Sikaflex291 sealant/adhesive.Great stuff.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > I don't know where you are but it is available in most countries I
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > think. Sika is a Swiss company I believe.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > Used widely in many boat building applications especially where you do
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > not want the adhesive to set hard so you can remove the deck or seat or
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > whatever down the track to replace it if it has been damaged or to get
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > at other parts of the hull for repairs/maintenance.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > I have used it & other Sika products for many years with good results.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > My 3 year old Michalak Ladybug's decks & seats are glued on with 291.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > Use temporary screws & remove them & fill/fair holes when glue is set.
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > Al Burke, Australia.
      >
      > >
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      > > > > > >
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      > > > > > >
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      > > > > > >
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      > > > > > >
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      > >
      >
      > > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > Andre Basso basso.asb@ wrote:
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > Hello all,
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > What kind of sealant you recommend to glue decks on a piccup pram ?
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > I
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > prefer not to use screws here so I'm thinking about resin putty
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > (permanent gluing option).
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > >
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > In addition: what's the best method to curve the little sticks
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > around
      >
      > >
      >
      > > > > > > > deck window?
      >
      > >
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      > > > > > > >
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      > > > > > > > André
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      > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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    • Allan
      Den, Just had a look at your photos.You re a very neat builder.Great colours & brightwork. Al.
      Message 2 of 23 , Jun 1, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Den,
        Just had a look at your photos.You're a very neat builder.Great colours & brightwork.

        Al.

        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Allan" <allanburke45@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Mate,291 with bolts properly spaced around the edge should be fine.
        >
        > The failure of your first attempt is probably related to prep work.291 is fairly forgiving,but if you take the time to study Sika's tech specs you will see they,like all manufacturers, are strong on correct prep,which is,after all,what we should all aim for.Works out cheaper & less grief in the long run.
        >
        > Al.
        >
        > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Al. I have left the bolts in as you suggest and see no reason to remove them. I used the product as recommended by the local well thought of agent. Even the experts can make mistakes ... I will take a look at the product you mention for future use. Thanks,
        > >
        > > Dennis
        > >
        > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
        > > From: allanburke45@
        > > Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 05:48:17 +0000
        > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Dennis,
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > I think you'll find you need to leave the small bolts in permanently,evenly spaced all round the window frame.I have re-newed plastic windows in a couple of f/glass yachts I've had over the years & re-used the small bolts which have to be tensioned carefully & evenly just enough to see the uncured Sikaflex squeeze out a little to form an even seal all round.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Also, perhaps you should have used Sikaflex 295U which is specially formulated for fixing plastic windows & performs a little differently from 291.Have a look at Sika's spec sheets.They have a wide range of products tailored to specific applications.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Cheers
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Al.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@> wrote:
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > I used 291 at the recommended sealant / adhesive to attach plexiglas windows in a one sided window frame. They were secured in position until the 291 set. A year later the plexi was falling out and I had to redo them. This time I left the ss bolts in place. There may have been an issue of different rates of expansion / contraction but the elasticity of the 291 should have handled that IMO ..
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > Dennis
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
        > >
        > > > From: allanburke45@
        > >
        > > > Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 06:07:38 +0000
        > >
        > > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
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        > > >
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        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > Mike,
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > Use Sikaflex291.It's designed to glue & seal but does not set hard so you can slice it off with a sturdy knife if you have to remove decks,seats etc down the track to do repairs.This way you can re-use them.Countersink screws if you want,but you don't really need them to stay in as this stuff really hangs on.Better to use temporary screws till the Sikaflex sets then remove them & fill & fair the holes.Simple.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > This product,& some of its relatives, is used widely in commercial boat building for things like hull to deck joins in fibreglass boats,& mounting winches & other deck hardware so everything can be removed if need be for maintenance/repair.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > I have some pics of the hatch seal on my Ladybug towards the end of a whole stack of pics in Duckworks forum & a pic of the rubber seal product I used that I found in the window seal section of my local hardware store.Never had a drop inside the storage compartments in 3 years of wet sailing.Ladybug is a very wet boat when sailed hard in strong breezes & because she doesn't even look like capsizing I seem to push her harder.Never had to reef.Look for "Ausie Ladybug" by absube(my Yahoo name).
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > Al Burke
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <rudder59@> wrote:
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > Andre
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > Looks great. You got a lot done!let me know how you make out with sealing decks and hatches as that's my next step.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > Regards
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > Mike
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > Nels,
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > I prefer the look of the decks without screws. In this case do you think
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > silicone alone will keep things together ?
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > I really like the look of the square ports. But I'm building it per
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > plans. No double framing.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > Check my progress at
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > Andre.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > On 26-05-2013 22:46, prairiedog2332 wrote:
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > In Jim's build book he recommends plain old silicone sealant so the
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > decks are removable and just screwed in place. This way the interiors
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > of the flotation boxes can be repaired, resealed or repainted. I would
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > use finish washers with the screws. Access ports square, small with
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > double overlapping framing so no leakage, held down with bungie cords
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > in a triangular fashion over a hook. Even some sea kayakers here like
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > the bungies added to their expensive kayak access ports. And you can
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > stuff items under the bungies as well so items don't fall overboard.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > Kayakers love bungies!
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > Nels
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > "Allan" wrote:
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > > Andre,
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > > Sikaflex291 sealant/adhesive.Great stuff.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > > I don't know where you are but it is available in most countries I
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > think. Sika is a Swiss company I believe.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > > Used widely in many boat building applications especially where you do
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > not want the adhesive to set hard so you can remove the deck or seat or
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > whatever down the track to replace it if it has been damaged or to get
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > at other parts of the hull for repairs/maintenance.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > >
        > >
        > > >
        > >
        > > > > > > > I have used it & other Sika products for many years with good results.
        > >
        > > >
        > >
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        > > > > > > > My 3 year old Michalak Ladybug's decks & seats are glued on with 291.
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        > > > > > > > Use temporary screws & remove them & fill/fair holes when glue is set.
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        > > > > > > > Al Burke, Australia.
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        > > > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,
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        > > > > > > Andre Basso basso.asb@ wrote:
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        > > > > > > > > Hello all,
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        > > > > > > > > What kind of sealant you recommend to glue decks on a piccup pram ?
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        > > > > > > I
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        > > > > > > > > prefer not to use screws here so I'm thinking about resin putty
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        > > > > > > > > In addition: what's the best method to curve the little sticks
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      • Dennis Mcfadden
        Thank you! I am currently building removable roof complete with sliding hatches. It is proving to be a bit of a challenge. I ll put up pics once it is further
        Message 3 of 23 , Jun 1, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          Thank you! I am currently building removable roof complete with sliding hatches. It is proving to be a bit of a challenge. I'll put up pics once it is further along. I like the open slot top but it is not much for trailering or security when it is left in the Walmart parking lot for an hour..

          Den

          To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
          From: allanburke45@...
          Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 12:18:00 +0000
          Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant


























          Den,

          Just had a look at your photos.You're a very neat builder.Great colours & brightwork.



          Al.



          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Allan" <allanburke45@...> wrote:

          >

          >

          >

          >

          > Mate,291 with bolts properly spaced around the edge should be fine.

          >

          > The failure of your first attempt is probably related to prep work.291 is fairly forgiving,but if you take the time to study Sika's tech specs you will see they,like all manufacturers, are strong on correct prep,which is,after all,what we should all aim for.Works out cheaper & less grief in the long run.

          >

          > Al.

          >

          > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@> wrote:

          > >

          > > Al. I have left the bolts in as you suggest and see no reason to remove them. I used the product as recommended by the local well thought of agent. Even the experts can make mistakes ... I will take a look at the product you mention for future use. Thanks,

          > >

          > > Dennis

          > >

          > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com

          > > From: allanburke45@

          > > Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 05:48:17 +0000

          > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant

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          > > Dennis,

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          > >

          > > I think you'll find you need to leave the small bolts in permanently,evenly spaced all round the window frame.I have re-newed plastic windows in a couple of f/glass yachts I've had over the years & re-used the small bolts which have to be tensioned carefully & evenly just enough to see the uncured Sikaflex squeeze out a little to form an even seal all round.

          > >

          > >

          > >

          > > Also, perhaps you should have used Sikaflex 295U which is specially formulated for fixing plastic windows & performs a little differently from 291.Have a look at Sika's spec sheets.They have a wide range of products tailored to specific applications.

          > >

          > >

          > >

          > > Cheers

          > >

          > >

          > >

          > > Al.

          > >

          > >

          > >

          > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Mcfadden <dennis-mcfadden@> wrote:

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > I used 291 at the recommended sealant / adhesive to attach plexiglas windows in a one sided window frame. They were secured in position until the 291 set. A year later the plexi was falling out and I had to redo them. This time I left the ss bolts in place. There may have been an issue of different rates of expansion / contraction but the elasticity of the 291 should have handled that IMO ..

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > Dennis

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com

          > >

          > > > From: allanburke45@

          > >

          > > > Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 06:07:38 +0000

          > >

          > > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Sealant

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          > > > Mike,

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          > > > Use Sikaflex291.It's designed to glue & seal but does not set hard so you can slice it off with a sturdy knife if you have to remove decks,seats etc down the track to do repairs.This way you can re-use them.Countersink screws if you want,but you don't really need them to stay in as this stuff really hangs on.Better to use temporary screws till the Sikaflex sets then remove them & fill & fair the holes.Simple.

          > >

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          > > > This product,& some of its relatives, is used widely in commercial boat building for things like hull to deck joins in fibreglass boats,& mounting winches & other deck hardware so everything can be removed if need be for maintenance/repair.

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          > >

          > > > I have some pics of the hatch seal on my Ladybug towards the end of a whole stack of pics in Duckworks forum & a pic of the rubber seal product I used that I found in the window seal section of my local hardware store.Never had a drop inside the storage compartments in 3 years of wet sailing.Ladybug is a very wet boat when sailed hard in strong breezes & because she doesn't even look like capsizing I seem to push her harder.Never had to reef.Look for "Ausie Ladybug" by absube(my Yahoo name).

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          > > > Al Burke

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          > >

          > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <rudder59@> wrote:

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          > > > > Andre

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          > > > > Looks great. You got a lot done!let me know how you make out with sealing decks and hatches as that's my next step.

          > >

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          > > > > Regards

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          > > > > Mike

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          > >

          > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andre Basso <basso.asb@> wrote:

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          > > > > > Nels,

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          > > > > > I prefer the look of the decks without screws. In this case do you think

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          > > > > > silicone alone will keep things together ?

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          > > > > > I really like the look of the square ports. But I'm building it per

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          > > > > > plans. No double framing.

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          > > > > > Check my progress at

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          > > > > > http://umveleirosimples.blogspot.com.br

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          > > > > > Andre.

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          > > > > > On 26-05-2013 22:46, prairiedog2332 wrote:

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          > > > > > > In Jim's build book he recommends plain old silicone sealant so the

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          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > decks are removable and just screwed in place. This way the interiors

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > of the flotation boxes can be repaired, resealed or repainted. I would

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          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > use finish washers with the screws. Access ports square, small with

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          > > > > > > double overlapping framing so no leakage, held down with bungie cords

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > in a triangular fashion over a hook. Even some sea kayakers here like

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > the bungies added to their expensive kayak access ports. And you can

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          > >

          > > > > > > stuff items under the bungies as well so items don't fall overboard.

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          > > >

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          > > > > > > Kayakers love bungies!

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          > > > > > > Nels

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          > >

          > > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > "Allan" wrote:

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          > > > > > > > Andre,

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          > > > > > > > Sikaflex291 sealant/adhesive.Great stuff.

          > >

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          > > > > > > > I don't know where you are but it is available in most countries I

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          > >

          > > > > > > think. Sika is a Swiss company I believe.

          > >

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          > > > > > > >

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          > > > > > > > Used widely in many boat building applications especially where you do

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          > > > > > > not want the adhesive to set hard so you can remove the deck or seat or

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          > >

          > > > > > > whatever down the track to replace it if it has been damaged or to get

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          > > > > > > at other parts of the hull for repairs/maintenance.

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          > > > > > > >

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          > > > > > > > I have used it & other Sika products for many years with good results.

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          > > > > > > >

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          > > > > > > > My 3 year old Michalak Ladybug's decks & seats are glued on with 291.

          > >

          > > >

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          > > > > > > >

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          > > > > > > > Use temporary screws & remove them & fill/fair holes when glue is set.

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          > > > > > > >

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          > > > > > > > Al Burke, Australia.

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          > > > > > > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>,

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > Andre Basso basso.asb@ wrote:

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          > > > > > > > > Hello all,

          > >

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          > > > > > > > >

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          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > > What kind of sealant you recommend to glue decks on a piccup pram ?

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > I

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > > prefer not to use screws here so I'm thinking about resin putty

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > > (permanent gluing option).

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > >

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > > In addition: what's the best method to curve the little sticks

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > around

          > >

          > > >

          > >

          > > > > > > > > deck window?

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          > > > > > > > > Andr�

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