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Re: [Michalak] Re: Imresboat - Plywood

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  • Donald Greer
    Paper: the 19th century s fiberglass. :^) ... -- I don t necessarily believe that software should be free, but if you pay for it, it should work. -- Me
    Message 1 of 29 , Apr 2 8:11 AM
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      Paper: the 19th century's fiberglass. :^)


      On Tue, Apr 2, 2013 at 9:42 AM, Chris Parker <parke120@...> wrote:

      > Why not, indeed. And it seems some folks figured out the "treated right"
      > part: http://www.cupery.net/
      >
      > - Chris
      >
      > On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 6:32 PM, john colley <Helliconia54@...
      > >wrote:
      >
      > > **
      > >
      > >
      > > We have, both here and in Britain, a "board" called "Hardboard".It being
      > > made from what looks like sawdust,typically it is dark brown and shiny
      > one
      > > side and matt/unfinished the other.Often sold perforated for use in
      > > workshops as a tool board.If you get it wet it absorbs the water becoming
      > > pulpy and useless.OK We know the stuff i mean? In Britain in the
      > 50's/60's
      > > it was sold in an "oiled" finish.This made it more water resistant.There
      > > were many boats from that era made using this product .Check out some old
      > > british boat designs.MY point? well If using what amounts to oiled
      > blotting
      > > paper, works,then why not anything else,if it's treated right?
      > >
      > >
      > > "There is magic in the feel of a paddle and the movement of a canoe, a
      > > magic compounded of distance, adventure, solitude, and peace."
      > > -Sigurd Olson
      > >
      > > ________________________________
      > > From: prairiedog2332 <nelsarv@...>
      > > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Saturday, 30 March 2013 2:54 AM
      > > Subject: [Michalak] Re: Imresboat - Plywood
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Here is what the Canadian Plywood Assoc has to say about MDO.
      > >
      > > http://www.canply.org/english/products/overlaidplywood.htm
      > >
      > > Paper of course is made from wood fibre and the bonding using resin,
      > > heat and pressure, fuses it to the wood. Glassing over it with epoxy
      > > works fine if you want added abrasion resistance to the bottom.
      > > Otherwise paint is all you need although I would seal any exposed edges
      > > with epoxy.
      > >
      > > Not sure - are we still talking plywood for Imresboat? If so I think MDO
      > > would be too heavy. It calls for 1/8" on the sides and 1/4" on the
      > > bottom. Occume would be the choice according to my yard, dang stuff is
      > > expensive though! Maybe Baltic Birch if sealed with epoxy on the
      > > outside? Definitely avoid Chinese luan if you want it to last at all. Or
      > > boil test as Jim mentions.
      > >
      > > Nels
      > >
      > > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "jwcrawfordtx" <jwcrawfordtx@...>
      > > wrote:
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Thank you all for the replies. I certainly have lots to think about.
      > > On the "sign board" this has a paper backing on one or both sides, how
      > > does this affect applying epoxy before paint?
      > > > John
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      > --
      > Chris Parker
      > Center for Teaching and Learning
      > Office of the Vice Provost for Faculty and Academic Affairs
      > University Office Plaza, Suite 400
      > 2221 University Ave. S.E.
      > Minneapolis, MN 55414
      > 612-625-2382
      > https://www.facebook.com/UMinnCTL?fref=ts
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >
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      --
      "I don't necessarily believe that software should be free, but if you pay
      for it, it should work." -- Me


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