Re: Lumber Questions (Scantlings)
- Very good point made by John T.
In "traditional boat building " terms this is often referred to as
"Scantlings". It is interesting to note that Bolger tended to go with
as light as possible and many builders increased them and Jim being a
great believer in Bolger's work tended to design his with a bit heavier
scantlings as a result. Also the dimensional lumber and plywood these
days are not as good as back in Bolger's earlier "instant boats" days.
It also depends on the boat. For example in a light rowing design you
can go a bit lighter. Just enough dimension to hold the fasteners of
your choice. Ring nails don't need much to hold tenaciously when
combined with a good glue. Just make sure you hit the bulkhead frame
wood with the nails. And with stitch and tape you don't need anything
for the lightest strength /weight ratio.
If wanting to use a motor, then don't scrimp with the transom framing
though - both bow and stern - nor the stem on a pointy design.
Jim also prefers to use lumber, (1x4) rather than plywood for the
backing plates in in a butt joint so they can be locked in with ring
nails or screws rather than having to "clinch" copper wire nails as
Payson does in his Bolger designs which require a helper to do right.
As a side note my lumber yard often stocks tropical mahogany cheaper
than clear fir. For those worried about the "rain forest" depletion,
clear fir comes from the west coast rain forests.
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "John Trussell" <jtrussell2@...> wrote:
> For most small boats, `natural wood' (as opposed to plywood)
is used in part
> as stiffeners and in part as glue/clamping blocks. IMHO. neither of
> applications is extraordinarily critical and lumber with dimensions
> minus ¼ inch are acceptable.
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