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Re: Piccup Pram - Lumber Questions

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  • Mike
    Willie, The one probblem I ran into with the lumber dimensions was that the sureply plywood I used wasn t 1/4 inch. It was 5.5 mm. I was concerned about the
    Message 1 of 10 , Mar 4 11:23 AM
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      Willie,
      The one probblem I ran into with the lumber dimensions was that the sureply plywood I used wasn't 1/4 inch. It was 5.5 mm. I was concerned about the fact that it was actually thinner then the JM's plans called for so I posted the question and asked for some suggestions. Do a search on the forum for piccup pram and if you look at messages around June 4, 2012 you will see a lot of good information from Scott McPherson, Dave Calloway, Martin Houston and Nels on how to compensate for the difference in thickness.

      I ended up glassing over the outside of the hull with thicker fiberglass cloth (10 oz) to make up the difference in thickness and strength.I am laminating an extra layer of plywood on inside bottom in cockpit area just for strength and wear and tear and will cover with a skim coat of expoxy resin. I know that's overkill but where I sail normally has a pretty good chop just about everyday so it can't hurt.

      Also I did the waterproof test that Nels or someone else recommended with a piece of the plywood and it worked fine. Test was to boil a small piece of the plywood for an hour. I ran it a little longer and the plywood did not delaminate which meant that the glue used between the plywood layers held up.

      Good luck with your build. I posted photos of mine about a week ago under mike's piccup.

      Regards,
      Mike

      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <nelsarv@...> wrote:
      >
      > Willie,
      >
      > You can study a dimensional lumber sizing chart here.
      >
      > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber
      >
      > The confusion is that the " actual" dimensions are different than the
      > "nominal" dimensions. That is because the original rough board loses
      > it's size when it gets planed smooth and the chart shows how much gets
      > planed off. The other thing is that a lot of lumber at your regular yard
      > is not specified as to type of tree it came from and most is soft wood
      > from evergreen trees. Here in Canada it is usually referred to as SPF
      > meaning it might be spruce, pine or fir. Doesn't really matter just try
      > to pick out boards that are as free of knots as possible and the grain
      > is fairly straight. Where it calls for redwood - for the wales - you can
      > also use cedar or tropical "mahogany" as well - or even white oak or
      > ash.
      >
      > The ability to rip boards to smaller widths is really an advantage as a
      > wider board is generally better quality. And also the ability to
      > laminate thinner boards (strips) to make a wider board when having to go
      > around curves. For wales you can use a thin strip with short blocks
      > attached in between the strip and the hull and get a pretty strong wale
      > that drains when the hull is inverted. Need some clamps for that. For a
      > mast you can also research aluminum tubing and the yard and boom do not
      > have to be round.
      >
      > I visited Brattleboro one time. Beautiful town and area.
      >
      > Nels
      >
      >
      > --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "boat2swim" <wgussin@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Forgive me if I am being dense, but I don't understand what you mean
      > by: "3/4 is standard 1" lumber." I do have Jim's book (assuming you are
      > referring to Boatbuilding for Beginners (and Beyond), and I have read
      > through entirely, but haven't found the answers to these questions. Can
      > you point me to certain sections?
      > >
      > > I am located in Southeastern Vermont, in a town called Brattleboro.
      > >
      > > Thanks for the help!
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • John Trussell
      For most small boats, ‘natural wood’ (as opposed to plywood) is used in part as stiffeners and in part as glue/clamping blocks. IMHO. neither of these
      Message 2 of 10 , Mar 4 1:53 PM
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        For most small boats, ‘natural wood’ (as opposed to plywood) is used in part
        as stiffeners and in part as glue/clamping blocks. IMHO. neither of these
        applications is extraordinarily critical and lumber with dimensions plus or
        minus ¼ inch are acceptable.



        JohnT



        _____

        From: Michalak@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Michalak@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
        Of Andres Espino
        Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 2:16 PM
        To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [Michalak] Re: Piccup Pram - Lumber Questions





        when the lumberyard planes down standard 1" inch board it becomes 3/4 thick.

        Most people who draw up plans for boats want true lumber dimensions (where
        1in is actually 1in) but a lot like Jim Michalak and Jeff Spira take that
        into account in their plans which makes home building easier.

        Andrew

        ________________________________
        From: boat2swim wgussin@... <mailto:wgussin%40gmail.com> >
        To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Monday, March 4, 2013 5:38 AM
        Subject: [Michalak] Re: Piccup Pram - Lumber Questions



        Forgive me if I am being dense, but I don't understand what you mean by:
        "3/4 is standard 1" lumber." I do have Jim's book (assuming you are
        referring to Boatbuilding for Beginners (and Beyond), and I have read
        through entirely, but haven't found the answers to these questions. Can you
        point me to certain sections?

        I am located in Southeastern Vermont, in a town called Brattleboro.

        Thanks for the help!

        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com> , Eugene
        Dixon wrote:
        >
        > Hi Willie
        > Â Welcome to piccup club.Â
        > Â Â Â Most of us buy stock lumber--1x4Â 1x6 2x4 ect, and rip/cut to
        size, Thre Redwood for gennels  is mostly for looks.
        > If you havent IMs book you really need to get it, it well anser 99% of
        questions
        >  example:: 3/4 is standard 1" lumber,  lengths are basicaly gut to
        fit need.
        > Eugene  located in Oklahoma
        > Â Â Â where are you located?
        >
        >
        > ________________________________
        > From: Willie Gussin
        > To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>
        > Sent: Sunday, March 3, 2013 8:40 PM
        > Subject: [Michalak] Piccup Pram - Lumber Questions
        >
        >
        > Â
        >
        > Hello Everyone!
        >
        > I have begun working on a Piccup Pram! I know almost nothing about
        > woodworking, but I knew even less before I started this project; it really
        > is an amazing learning process, and I really appreciate that.
        >
        > These questions are very basic, but I hope you don't mind taking a moment
        > to enlighten me.
        >
        > Okay, the materials list calls for two 12' pine 2x4's and one 12' redwood
        > 1x4. What is the redwood used on? Does it specify somewhere on the plans?
        > Also, the lumber pieces described in the specifications include many sizes
        > of lumber, but not lengths. Do I need to get each of these pieces (a 1
        1/2"
        > x 3/4", a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2", a 3/4" x 7/8", etc.) from the two pieces of
        > pine? There is also a 3 1/2" x 1 1/2" in the specifications for the skeg,
        > this is going to use almost an entire 2 x 4 right? Can it be a half inch
        > larger by both dimensions and just not cut the 2 x 4? Also, will the
        > lumberyard rip these boards for me into all of the different sizes? Are
        > some of them flexible measurements and some of them are definite? Are
        there
        > procedures somewhere on how to get all of these pieces out of the lumber
        on
        > the materials list?
        >
        > I think one of the main issues (besides the lack of knowledge) is that I
        > don't have any excess wood sitting around from other projects, so I need
        to
        > buy and cut all lumber used.
        >
        > Thank you so much to anyone who takes the time to explain any of these
        > questions I am having!
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • prairiedog2332
        Very good point made by John T. In traditional boat building terms this is often referred to as Scantlings . It is interesting to note that Bolger tended
        Message 3 of 10 , Mar 4 3:11 PM
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          Very good point made by John T.

          In "traditional boat building " terms this is often referred to as
          "Scantlings". It is interesting to note that Bolger tended to go with
          as light as possible and many builders increased them and Jim being a
          great believer in Bolger's work tended to design his with a bit heavier
          scantlings as a result. Also the dimensional lumber and plywood these
          days are not as good as back in Bolger's earlier "instant boats" days.

          It also depends on the boat. For example in a light rowing design you
          can go a bit lighter. Just enough dimension to hold the fasteners of
          your choice. Ring nails don't need much to hold tenaciously when
          combined with a good glue. Just make sure you hit the bulkhead frame
          wood with the nails. And with stitch and tape you don't need anything
          for the lightest strength /weight ratio.

          If wanting to use a motor, then don't scrimp with the transom framing
          though - both bow and stern - nor the stem on a pointy design.

          Jim also prefers to use lumber, (1x4) rather than plywood for the
          backing plates in in a butt joint so they can be locked in with ring
          nails or screws rather than having to "clinch" copper wire nails as
          Payson does in his Bolger designs which require a helper to do right.

          As a side note my lumber yard often stocks tropical mahogany cheaper
          than clear fir. For those worried about the "rain forest" depletion,
          clear fir comes from the west coast rain forests.

          Nels

          --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "John Trussell" <jtrussell2@...> wrote:
          >
          > For most small boats, `natural wood' (as opposed to plywood)
          is used in part
          > as stiffeners and in part as glue/clamping blocks. IMHO. neither of
          these
          > applications is extraordinarily critical and lumber with dimensions
          plus or
          > minus ¼ inch are acceptable.

          > JohnT
          >
          >




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