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CPES > Re:

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  • souderscott997
    good to know
    Message 1 of 12 , Feb 17, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      good to know

      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Andres Espino <ima_very_cool_cowboy@...> wrote:
      >
      > No the rotdoctor site explains that epoxies bond well to it. 
      >
      > After you have cured your rot you can epoxy and glass over the spot and paint it. 
      >
      > I used CPES to repair where my deck coreing had started to rot around stanchion bolts and  other hardware.  I used a large countersing bit to enlarge the top then plugged the bottom and saturated the inside with CPES and let it work way back laterally... then I forced resin with filler into the hole and filled it up.  I kept the bolt hole mostly open with a wooden dowel wrapped with mylar (resin does not stick to mylar.. save those chips bags with the silver lining).  Light sand and deck paint and then rebed the base with butyl tape good as new.
      >
      > Andrew
      >
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      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Scott Souder <souderscott997@...>
      > To: "Michalak@yahoogroups.com" <Michalak@yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2013 10:57 AM
      > Subject: Re: [Michalak] CPES > Re:
      >
      >
      >  
      > Would it cause any problems with other epoxies bonding over it? Would it cause problems with other epoxies bonding to wood already treated with CPES? I am curious because it is an epoxy and in most cases they seem to work fine one brand to another and all that...but the CPES has some solvent qualities to it as well. I would be nervous about it possibly effecting bonds I guess.
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Andres Espino ima_very_cool_cowboy@...>
      > To: "Michalak@yahoogroups.com" Michalak@yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 9:08 PM
      > Subject: Re: [Michalak] CPES > Re:
      >
      >
      >  
      >
      > Actually CPES penetrates really far up to 15 inches!  No Kidding!.  On the site they show how it penetrated far enough to salvage rotted logs in a log home. 
      > http://rotdoctor.com/test/penetration.html
      >
      > There is also a page about what it was used for to salvage really old wooden boats from rot.
      > http://rotdoctor.com/boat/Bmain.html
      >
      > Andrew
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Roger Padvorac mailto:roger%40skilledwright.com>
      > To: mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Friday, February 15, 2013 5:22 PM
      > Subject: Re: [Michalak] CPES > Re:
      >
      >  
      > Nels,
      > I should have been more explicit about what I found interesting in this article:
      > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_preservation#Wood_acetylation
      > It talks about the chemicals in CPES causing a chemical change in the wood that makes it chemically incompatible with fungus and insect digestion - changes the wood so its just stuff, not food for fungus.
      >
      > This is an entirely separate issue from the general need to assemble the boat using strong connections and protect the surface of the wood from the weather.
      >
      > Something I haven't seen yet is how deep the chemical change from CPES reaches down into the wood. If only the top 1/8 inch of the wood is protected from rotting and the wood is 3/4 inch thick, and moisture and fungus spores get past that surface layer to the interior of the wood, then the interior of the wood will still rot, so there wasn't a whole lot of gain.
      >
      > If CPES does change wood so its incapable of being digested by fungus, and it does penetrate deep enough so that 100% of the thickness of wood is protected this way, then that would be pretty significant.
      >
      > Besides the fact that it would need to penetrate all the way through the wood to provide permanent protection, it would need to penetrate through the adhesive layers holding the plies of plywood together, to get to the center plies in the plywood. If it did all this (and didn't cause the plywood to delaminate), and blocked rotting and insect damage for an extended period, then it would be pretty amazing.
      >
      > So what we need is details on reliable test data on CPES depth of penetration in plain wood and in plywood, and how well the treated wood behaves in extended real world use.
      >
      > If CPES doesn't protect the middle of the wood from rot, then the existing good practice for epoxy seems like the best bet. I'm talking about fresh new wood here.
      >
      > For wood with spots of rot in it, I still feel its best to cut out the rot, and then splice in fresh wood. If CPES penetrates well and block rotting, then it might be useful to use it to treat the wood around where the rot spot was located, and treat the new wood, in case some fungus or spores remain in the old wood.
      >
      > Sincerely,
      > Roger
      >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "prairiedog2332" mailto:nelsarv%40hotmail.com>
      > To: mailto:Michalak%40yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2013 6:18 AM
      > Subject: [Michalak] CPES > Re:
      >
      > > According to most name brand epoxy manufacturers like West System there is very little advantage to thinning epoxy so that it penetrates better and several disadvantages. Probably this link is too long for yahoo but you can Google "Thinning epoxy" for more information. (Heating it a bit is probably the best way, but that sounds scary to me!)
      > >
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