Re: [Michalak] Re: Hatch(s) for bird watcher openings?
- Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I could
come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build than I
believed the end result would be worth.
To get the three panels to slide together into one single panel would
require three different heights of panels, each forming a stair-step to slide
under the higher panel. So there would be a three fold difference in height
between the first and last panel. Ugly to say the least!
I decided to go with a two sliding hatch to cover the open slot. Still
ugly, but one-third less so...I hope! <G>
A three panel would be still 1/3rd taller! To Keep it somewhat rain proof,
the higher panels need to be at the front of the boat so the sliding gap is
facing aft. The panels look better facing the other way!
Frankly, I made the hard cover sliding hatches because it interested me,
and I had nothing else I wanted to mess with.
However, Jim Michalak told me at the 2012 Sail Oklahoma Event, that almost
everyone he knew, who has made hard panels for the slot, has returned to a
soft cover. I believe the difficulty of properly storing the hard panels
would most likely offset the value of having a sturdier roof. Plus a soft
cover is much easier on your head when ducking under the panel to go forward,
I guess that what I'm trying to say is...if I was building a new boat I
wouldn't alter the plans to provide storage for hard panels. In fact, I'd plan
on using curved bows, and some light weigh water-proof material in lieu of
hard sliding panels.
Bobby, you might find it worth while to come over to my house,and play
around with my two sliding roof panels. You might come up with a much better
construction method for hard panels, or rethink the merits of a soft cover.
In a message dated 12/31/2012 10:54:15 P.M. Central Standard Time,
Bill, curious if you came up with a three piece version of Jeff's two
I'm leaning toward that route on my Caroline. If I build the top slot
three inches narrower, while increasing the width of the starboard coach roof
3", the hardcovers should just be able to stow on the starboard roof when
not in use.
I was thinking the middle cover would be twice as long as end covers, and
sit high enough and wide enough to allow the end covers to slide under the
I haven't figured out how to get the end covers to slide under the middle
cover when retracted, yet still be able to lock the end sections over the
outside of the top washboard when extended. I'm hoping somebody here has an
--- In _Michalak@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:Michalak@yahoogroups.com) ,
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Jeff, I will be giving it my best shot in the next couple of weeks.
> However, like most of my "shots", I most likely will miss the target!
> If you don't hear from me again, you will know I didn't accomplish
> anything worthwhile. <G>
- What I am wondering is having the higher section covering half the slot
opening and placed centrally so a quarter of the opening is open at each
end. Then a shorter section at each end that slides in and out out from
under that central section and closes each end opening.
The higher section overlaps the side rails has tabs at each end that
fit into a groove along the lower outer edge of the rail so it can slide
back and forth. The lower sections have tabs at each end that slide
along a groove in the inside upper edge of the rail opening. And they
slide out far enough to overlap the drop board at each end. The outer
edge lies just atop the rail at each side and sheds water outside.
Each lower section has another tab attached underneath at the
centreline and this tab slides through a small slot in the drop board as
it is closed completely. Each tab has a hole drilled through it's outer
end and projects far enough through the slot that a padlock can be
attached. It locks not only the sliding section but also the drop board
These tabs are probably best made from bronze flat plate and the the
corners all rounded a bit. A bit of wax in the grooves and they should
slide OK. I think making the tops from cedar strips like Dennis
mentions or very thin bending plywood gives the lightest weight and can
be crowned to shed water. They could be lined with foam as well for
extra insulation and a gasket of some kind at each end of the higher
section would hopefully keep out the water. The slots would have a drop
pin of some kind at their ends so the covers can be removed altogether
if desired but won't get slide off when you don't want them to.
That still leaves the problem of getting around the mast though. Now
with Jukebox3 that was solved by moving the mast forward ahead of the
cabin altogether and then adding a mizzen to the stern to get the sail
plan back into balance. But maybe there is another way of getting around
the mast and still sealing it?
So this would work best if you are doing a new build. Of course you also
have to cut the grooves in the rails before they are installed. It is a
major piece of work and requires accuracy when cutting and fitting, but
maybe worth it if you trailer a lot or like the extra security or
insulation when leaving the boat out on a trailer or mooring overnight.
And like Bob Larkin mentions you can always leave them in the back of
the van and go with a soft cover during nice weather.
--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, BGN5731@... wrote:
> Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I
> come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build
> believed the end result would be worth.
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- I am passing this along...
For those of you like me who are sort of following the travels of Roger
Taylor, skipper of a little junk-rigged 21ft Corribee called Mingming....
Mingming makes it back to Whitehills after 3000 miles and 65 days at sea.
He has posted that latest video on his youtube channel and there are many previous ones as well http://www.youtube.com/user/junkming
Learn more at his website www.thesimplesailor.com
Hope you enjoy it...
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