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Re: Hatch(s) for bird watcher openings?

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  • okiebobby@ymail.com
    Bill, curious if you came up with a three piece version of Jeff s two piece hardtop? I m leaning toward that route on my Caroline. If I build the top slot
    Message 1 of 21 , Dec 31, 2012
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      Bill, curious if you came up with a three piece version of Jeff's two piece hardtop?

      I'm leaning toward that route on my Caroline. If I build the top slot three inches narrower, while increasing the width of the starboard coach roof 3", the hardcovers should just be able to stow on the starboard roof when not in use.

      I was thinking the middle cover would be twice as long as end covers, and sit high enough and wide enough to allow the end covers to slide under the middle cover.

      I haven't figured out how to get the end covers to slide under the middle cover when retracted, yet still be able to lock the end sections over the outside of the top washboard when extended. I'm hoping somebody here has an easy solution.


      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, BGN5731@... wrote:
      >
      > Jeff, I will be giving it my best shot in the next couple of weeks.
      > However, like most of my "shots", I most likely will miss the target!
      >
      > If you don't hear from me again, you will know I didn't accomplish
      > anything worthwhile. <G>
      >
      > Bill
      > OKC
    • Dennis Mcfadden
      I have been thinking about a similar set up. My latest thought was to have the smaller inner hatch ride so that it just touches the top of the slot top rail.
      Message 2 of 21 , Dec 31, 2012
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        I have been thinking about a similar set up. My latest thought was to have the smaller inner hatch ride so that it just touches the top of the slot top rail. It would have a slide running in a groove on the inner face of the slot top rail. The larger hatch would run in a similar groove on the outer face of the rail. Each hatch would have a "stop" that would bump up against the drop board or door ( which ever you have). The hatch would extend past the drop board a few inches to act as an eave to prevent rain water from coming in. I don't feel that the hatch has to capture the outside face of the drop board. I would install some sort of locking hardware so the hatch wouldn't slide open plus you would gain a small measure of security for when you walk away from the boat. The truck canopy or RV folks possibly have something that would do the job. I had in mind 2 pieces but the 3 piece idea has merit as well. I haven't solved the problem of a weather tight opening for the mast. Plus there needs to be some sort of gasket between the sections to keep the rain at bay ... It all gets kind of complicated in a hurry. In my mind I would construct this like a stripper canoe. Should be rather pretty if done right. Does any of this make sense, I'm just thinking and meandering out loud. Dennis
        To: Michalak@yahoogroups.com
        From: okiebobby@...
        Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 04:53:56 +0000
        Subject: [Michalak] Re: Hatch(s) for bird watcher openings?






























        Bill, curious if you came up with a three piece version of Jeff's two piece hardtop?



        I'm leaning toward that route on my Caroline. If I build the top slot three inches narrower, while increasing the width of the starboard coach roof 3", the hardcovers should just be able to stow on the starboard roof when not in use.



        I was thinking the middle cover would be twice as long as end covers, and sit high enough and wide enough to allow the end covers to slide under the middle cover.



        I haven't figured out how to get the end covers to slide under the middle cover when retracted, yet still be able to lock the end sections over the outside of the top washboard when extended. I'm hoping somebody here has an easy solution.



        --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, BGN5731@... wrote:

        >

        > Jeff, I will be giving it my best shot in the next couple of weeks.

        > However, like most of my "shots", I most likely will miss the target!

        >

        > If you don't hear from me again, you will know I didn't accomplish

        > anything worthwhile. <G>

        >

        > Bill

        > OKC


















        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • BGN5731@aol.com
        Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I could come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build than I believed
        Message 3 of 21 , Jan 1, 2013
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          Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I could
          come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build than I
          believed the end result would be worth.

          To get the three panels to slide together into one single panel would
          require three different heights of panels, each forming a stair-step to slide
          under the higher panel. So there would be a three fold difference in height
          between the first and last panel. Ugly to say the least!

          I decided to go with a two sliding hatch to cover the open slot. Still
          ugly, but one-third less so...I hope! <G>

          "_http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYGFront%20hatch%20with%20sliding%20
          hatch%20closed.jpg_
          (http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYGFront%20hatch%20with%20sliding%20hatch%20closed.jpg) "

          _http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYG%20Front%20hatch%20withsliding%20h
          atch%20open%20all%20the%20way.jpg_
          (http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYG%20Front%20hatch%20withsliding%20hatch%20open%20all%20the%20way.jpg)

          "_http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYG%20Rear%20hatch%20with%20sliding%
          20hatch%20open%20fully.jpg_
          (http://oomur.pair.com/wwpotter/images/AYG%20Rear%20hatch%20with%20sliding%20hatch%20open%20fully.jpg) "

          A three panel would be still 1/3rd taller! To Keep it somewhat rain proof,
          the higher panels need to be at the front of the boat so the sliding gap is
          facing aft. The panels look better facing the other way!

          Frankly, I made the hard cover sliding hatches because it interested me,
          and I had nothing else I wanted to mess with.

          However, Jim Michalak told me at the 2012 Sail Oklahoma Event, that almost
          everyone he knew, who has made hard panels for the slot, has returned to a
          soft cover. I believe the difficulty of properly storing the hard panels
          would most likely offset the value of having a sturdier roof. Plus a soft
          cover is much easier on your head when ducking under the panel to go forward,
          etc.! <G>

          I guess that what I'm trying to say is...if I was building a new boat I
          wouldn't alter the plans to provide storage for hard panels. In fact, I'd plan
          on using curved bows, and some light weigh water-proof material in lieu of
          hard sliding panels.

          Bobby, you might find it worth while to come over to my house,and play
          around with my two sliding roof panels. You might come up with a much better
          construction method for hard panels, or rethink the merits of a soft cover.

          Bill Nolen
          OKC


          In a message dated 12/31/2012 10:54:15 P.M. Central Standard Time,
          okiebobby@... writes:






          Bill, curious if you came up with a three piece version of Jeff's two
          piece hardtop?

          I'm leaning toward that route on my Caroline. If I build the top slot
          three inches narrower, while increasing the width of the starboard coach roof
          3", the hardcovers should just be able to stow on the starboard roof when
          not in use.

          I was thinking the middle cover would be twice as long as end covers, and
          sit high enough and wide enough to allow the end covers to slide under the
          middle cover.

          I haven't figured out how to get the end covers to slide under the middle
          cover when retracted, yet still be able to lock the end sections over the
          outside of the top washboard when extended. I'm hoping somebody here has an
          easy solution.

          --- In _Michalak@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:Michalak@yahoogroups.com) ,
          BGN5731@... wrote:
          >
          > Jeff, I will be giving it my best shot in the next couple of weeks.
          > However, like most of my "shots", I most likely will miss the target!
          >
          > If you don't hear from me again, you will know I didn't accomplish
          > anything worthwhile. <G>
          >
          > Bill
          > OKC






          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • prairiedog2332
          What I am wondering is having the higher section covering half the slot opening and placed centrally so a quarter of the opening is open at each end. Then a
          Message 4 of 21 , Jan 1, 2013
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            What I am wondering is having the higher section covering half the slot
            opening and placed centrally so a quarter of the opening is open at each
            end. Then a shorter section at each end that slides in and out out from
            under that central section and closes each end opening.

            The higher section overlaps the side rails has tabs at each end that
            fit into a groove along the lower outer edge of the rail so it can slide
            back and forth. The lower sections have tabs at each end that slide
            along a groove in the inside upper edge of the rail opening. And they
            slide out far enough to overlap the drop board at each end. The outer
            edge lies just atop the rail at each side and sheds water outside.

            Each lower section has another tab attached underneath at the
            centreline and this tab slides through a small slot in the drop board as
            it is closed completely. Each tab has a hole drilled through it's outer
            end and projects far enough through the slot that a padlock can be
            attached. It locks not only the sliding section but also the drop board
            into place.

            These tabs are probably best made from bronze flat plate and the the
            corners all rounded a bit. A bit of wax in the grooves and they should
            slide OK. I think making the tops from cedar strips like Dennis
            mentions or very thin bending plywood gives the lightest weight and can
            be crowned to shed water. They could be lined with foam as well for
            extra insulation and a gasket of some kind at each end of the higher
            section would hopefully keep out the water. The slots would have a drop
            pin of some kind at their ends so the covers can be removed altogether
            if desired but won't get slide off when you don't want them to.

            That still leaves the problem of getting around the mast though. Now
            with Jukebox3 that was solved by moving the mast forward ahead of the
            cabin altogether and then adding a mizzen to the stern to get the sail
            plan back into balance. But maybe there is another way of getting around
            the mast and still sealing it?

            http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/jukebox3/index.htm

            So this would work best if you are doing a new build. Of course you also
            have to cut the grooves in the rails before they are installed. It is a
            major piece of work and requires accuracy when cutting and fitting, but
            maybe worth it if you trailer a lot or like the extra security or
            insulation when leaving the boat out on a trailer or mooring overnight.
            And like Bob Larkin mentions you can always leave them in the back of
            the van and go with a soft cover during nice weather.

            Nels

            --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, BGN5731@... wrote:
            >
            > Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I
            could
            > come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build
            than I
            > believed the end result would be worth.
            >



            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Andres Espino
            I am passing this along... For those of you like me who are sort of following the travels of Roger Taylor, skipper of a little junk-rigged 21ft Corribee called
            Message 5 of 21 , Jan 1, 2013
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              I am passing this along...


              For those of you like me who are sort of following the travels of Roger
              Taylor, skipper of a little junk-rigged 21ft Corribee called Mingming....

              Mingming makes it back to Whitehills after 3000 miles and 65 days at sea. 
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED9Hxe6qZo8


              He has posted that latest video on his youtube channel and there are many previous ones as well     http://www.youtube.com/user/junkming


              Learn more at his website   www.thesimplesailor.com

              Hope you enjoy it...

              Andrew


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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