- I am building a shortened version of Deansbox. The original is 15.5 feet long and I am shortening it to 13.5. I think I am going to eliminate the mizzen too and leave it with a single balanced lug. I was concerned about getting the bevels right since the shortening might change the angles of the wooden framing at the bulkheads. When it came time to fasten the bulkheads to the sides, I decided to just use fillets strengthened with chopped glass. The angles of the sides to bottom is no problem as it remains constant. The height of the bulkheads where they fit varied a bit though. I have to plane one down and fill a gap on the other since I followed the plans for making these bulkheads. The gap is maybe a half inch at most. I just placed these bulkheads where they seemed to fit best and I think it worked out ok. The work is going slow. I am about to put on the bottom. I liked the Deansbox plans because the hull is deep. I needed a deep hull because I am going to make the boat self-bailing. I think that a lot of people might be interested in a boat just shy of 14 feet with a flat bottom and with a wider beam than Mayfly 14. You could go even wider than the beam of Deansbox at 5 feet. I am leaving out the motor well and the forward well in favor of more bouyancy and more storage space. I have considered just putting in a footwell instead of going completely self bailing. I haven't decided absolutely definitely yet. I am aware that some boats with flotation on the bottom can be hard to rescue after capsize. Like Mike Monies' adventure with the Cartopper--I think that boat had flotation on the bottom. Also there was a Wayfarer I think in the EC that was difficult to right after capsize. But I intend to have drain plugs installed above the false bottom. The problem is when you have flotation down low and a large volume of water sloshing around above it, the boat becomes very unstable and tends to recapsize easily. So you have to get that captured water out before you have really handled the problem. Opinions anybody?