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Re: QT Skiff -power

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  • sloppytypist
    ... bit ... forms ... i ... first ... the ... I did make the front forms and bow stem 3 taller. I cut the top of the sheer per plans on one panel and the
    Message 1 of 19 , Jan 31, 2009
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      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "rudderd" <gmcquinn@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > > > > > Posted by: "david.calloway"
      > > > > > Date: Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:30 pm ((PST))
      >
      > > > I also increased the bow sheer as I think it looks better.
      > > > This mod does require ply.
      > > > I did not use any cross members up forward.
      > > > I have added pictures of the interior and raised sheer.
      > > > Good luck
      >
      > > Pictures are in QT Skiff raised sheer
      >
      > I've also always felt the sheer should be higher, perhaps 3" or a
      bit
      > more at bow, how did you lay this out and did you use standard
      forms
      > when building? I built a standard version years ago and thought if
      i
      > ever did another one, I'd add to the sheerline and build a model
      first
      > to see how it looked. I would also go to 3/8" bottom.....and put
      the
      > chines on inside.
      >

      I did make the front forms and bow stem 3" taller.

      I cut the top of the sheer per plans on one panel and the bottom of
      the sheer on an other panel.
      I then laid the two panels on top of each other and traced the top
      sheer line 3 inches taller on top, forward only. I left the transom
      as planned. This makes one panel as the bottom sheer has already been
      done. Now just copy this panel to the other.
      Done
      It does look nattier.
    • adventures_in_astrophotography
      Hi Kevin, ... middle. ... I built the rowing version with a 3/8 bottom, and used two grounding shoes on the bottom. It s plenty stiff and the boat is still
      Message 2 of 19 , Feb 2 5:55 AM
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        Hi Kevin,

        > I do like the idea of 3/8" on the bottom and perhaps
        > reducing the 3 bilge strips. To how many, I would hope one down the
        middle.
        > Much cleaner and faster.

        I built the rowing version with a 3/8" bottom, and used two grounding
        shoes on the bottom. It's plenty stiff and the boat is still light
        enough to horse over my head long enough to get it on top of the
        pickup. I can't see any reason not to build the power version with a
        3/8" bottom.

        Jon Kolb
        www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
      • Chris Crandall
        I used the 1/4 without regrets. However, I put down a grating on my boat that lifts out--it s very nice, artistic even, and raises the center of gravity of
        Message 3 of 19 , Feb 2 9:27 AM
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          I used the 1/4" without regrets. However, I put down a grating on my
          boat that lifts out--it's very nice, artistic even, and raises the
          center of gravity of stuff in the boat by .5 inch (but has little or no
          effect on someone sitting on the thwart).

          Setting this in involved epoxying into place a couple of athwartship
          runners that did serve to stiffen the hull bottom. Since they are
          lighter than another 1/8" plywood, and serve another purpose (holding
          the grating in place), I preferred it.

          But overbuilding is often a bad idea, and when these pile up and pile up
          and pile up--they harm the boat's performance.

          Keep in mind that the boat is designed by an experienced boater,
          designer, and engineer. He probably already knows better than you do.
          Probably.

          -Chris
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