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Re: skeg

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  • adventures_in_astrophotography
    Hi Wojtek, ... If you make the skeg vertically rather shallow, like the one shown on the plans, you probably don t need two layers of tape. I made mine
    Message 1 of 2 , Oct 9 8:18 AM
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      Hi Wojtek,

      > I'm about to fix a skeg to robote hull and it's something new to me.
      > Jim wrote: "bed in place with fast setting putty and secure withtwo
      > layers of fiberglass tape with epoxy glue". Almost every sail- or
      > rowboat has a skeg, and I'm curious if someone has made it other way?
      > Robote has v-shaped bottom.

      If you make the skeg vertically rather shallow, like the one shown on
      the plans, you probably don't need two layers of tape. I made mine
      somewhat deeper than on the plans, faired it to an airfoil shape, and
      used epoxy mixed 50/50 with colloidal silica/wood flour to attach it
      using fillets with no tape at all. It probably should have a layer of
      tape, but mine has held up fine for the first season (only three
      outings in this boat for about 8 total miles).

      The tricky part is getting the skeg plumbed vertically, especially if
      the boat is not setting level. If you can still see the center line on
      the transom, use that for a reference. Otherwise, if you think the
      hull is pretty symmetrical, measure from the top corners of the transom
      to the lower aft end of the skeg - the distance should be the same. If
      you rounded over the V on the bottom, as is probably the case, it can
      also be tricky to get the skeg aligned fore and aft. Again, you can
      measure from two supposedly symmetrical points, like the lower corners
      of the transom. On mine, I just eyeballed it using the transom
      centerline and sighting down the V of the bottom. It looks fine and I
      don't notice the boat tracking off line.

      You're going to love how easily this boat moves! One other suggestion
      is to put wood pads for the oarlock sockets on top of the rail. I
      found that the seating height shown is a little high in relation to the
      oarlocks, and that they would benefit from being an inch or so higher.
      For some reason, lowering the seat a little bit didn't help. I'm going
      to put pads on mine this winter, and also try to move the oarlock
      sockets outboard an inch on each side. As drawn, the oarlock spacing
      results in a slight interference with 7' oars having their stops at
      23.5" from the end of the grip, which is where both Bolger and Shaw &
      Tenney told me to put them (to use on my Bolger Long Dory, for
      instance). These are only minor issues, will not spoil the fun by any
      means, and may not even bother you. Mine is also getting a fishing rod
      holder for next season!

      Jon Kolb
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