28668RE: Air pockets in fiberglass seams
- Oct 9, 2013
I realize I am weighing in on this sort of late but...I wouldn't leave out the fillet. It structurally is important and it solves part of the problem of air under the fiberglass tape. It gives the tape an easier contour to follow with no (or certainly less) of a void underneath which equals less air under it. Plus by adding the cabosil or even wood flour you actually extend the volume of your epoxy using less in the end.
---In email@example.com, <crandall@...> wrote:Lead kinetics came up, and I just wanted to add a point or two:
1. The first rule of lead is do NOT let it get into your body; very sane
advice. Also, don't let hot lead get near you, and that means anything
that hot lead touches should be drier than the Mojave Desert. Any
moisture will cause splatter-->burn-->unhappy boatbuilder (or perhaps a
2. Lead was removed from pencils just slightly before pencils were
invented. They've always used graphite. From Wikipedia "When the pencil
originated as a wrapped graphite writing tool, the particular type of
graphite being used was named plumbago (lit. act for lead, or lead mockup)."
3. On lead metabolism, one might check here:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC333178/ It's really quite
fascinating. In the blood, " lead has a mean life of 35 days," and "lead
in soft tissue has a mean life of approximately 40 days" and lead in
soft tissue "gives rise to lead in hair, nails, sweat, and salivary,
gastric, pancreatic, and biliary secretions."
The really bad news is this, lead in bones " . . . skeleton, contains
the vast quantity of body lead, and has a very slow mean life." This
means that much of the lead gets out pretty slowly, the graphs suggest
more than a year. Don't inhale it, don't eat it, shower immediately
after sanding it, a rinse off with the garden hose is by no means excessive.
<ToH to Bob C.>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- << Previous post in topic