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27029Re: First brazilian Piccup Pram ?

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  • prairiedog2332
    Mar 1, 2013
      Another idea for what Dynamite Payson referred to as "easing the joint"
      so it is flush - or even open a bit - is a Japanese pull saw. Also when
      applying an additional coating of epoxy do so while the previous coat is
      still "green" - not fully hardened - for the best bond.
      Some people go under the hull and apply some masking tape over the wider
      cracks so the thickened epoxy filler will not drop through then apply
      the filler. Sort of tacking it together with thickened epoxy, then a
      coating of un-thickened epoxy along the bottom seam as far outside the
      joint as the tape is wide (Draw lines either side the seam half the
      width of the tape.) and immediately lay in the tape and snip off the
      wires as you go along, then fill the weave. Best done with a helper.
      Remove the masking tape while everything is still green.


      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <rudder59@...> wrote:
      > Andre
      > Thanks.when I put the panels together I used a small disk sander with
      60 grit sand paper to fine tune those areas that didn't match up. What
      was encouraging was that JM indicated that it was ok and actually helped
      if you had some areas where there was a gap because the thickened epoxy
      could fill in the gap and kind of wrap around the two panels for a
      tighter joint.
      > One lesson I learned was several thin layers of epoxy work better and
      provide a stronger bond then a couple of thick layers.you get less
      chance of air bubbles and less sanding if you take your time and apply
      as clean as possible.
      > Will post some more pictures next week after I get some more work
      > Regards
      > Mike

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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