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26559Re: Hatch(s) for bird watcher openings?

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  • prairiedog2332
    Jan 1, 2013
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      What I am wondering is having the higher section covering half the slot
      opening and placed centrally so a quarter of the opening is open at each
      end. Then a shorter section at each end that slides in and out out from
      under that central section and closes each end opening.

      The higher section overlaps the side rails has tabs at each end that
      fit into a groove along the lower outer edge of the rail so it can slide
      back and forth. The lower sections have tabs at each end that slide
      along a groove in the inside upper edge of the rail opening. And they
      slide out far enough to overlap the drop board at each end. The outer
      edge lies just atop the rail at each side and sheds water outside.

      Each lower section has another tab attached underneath at the
      centreline and this tab slides through a small slot in the drop board as
      it is closed completely. Each tab has a hole drilled through it's outer
      end and projects far enough through the slot that a padlock can be
      attached. It locks not only the sliding section but also the drop board
      into place.

      These tabs are probably best made from bronze flat plate and the the
      corners all rounded a bit. A bit of wax in the grooves and they should
      slide OK. I think making the tops from cedar strips like Dennis
      mentions or very thin bending plywood gives the lightest weight and can
      be crowned to shed water. They could be lined with foam as well for
      extra insulation and a gasket of some kind at each end of the higher
      section would hopefully keep out the water. The slots would have a drop
      pin of some kind at their ends so the covers can be removed altogether
      if desired but won't get slide off when you don't want them to.

      That still leaves the problem of getting around the mast though. Now
      with Jukebox3 that was solved by moving the mast forward ahead of the
      cabin altogether and then adding a mizzen to the stern to get the sail
      plan back into balance. But maybe there is another way of getting around
      the mast and still sealing it?

      http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/jukebox3/index.htm

      So this would work best if you are doing a new build. Of course you also
      have to cut the grooves in the rails before they are installed. It is a
      major piece of work and requires accuracy when cutting and fitting, but
      maybe worth it if you trailer a lot or like the extra security or
      insulation when leaving the boat out on a trailer or mooring overnight.
      And like Bob Larkin mentions you can always leave them in the back of
      the van and go with a soft cover during nice weather.

      Nels

      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, BGN5731@... wrote:
      >
      > Well, Bobby, the truth is the only three panel sliding hatch design I
      could
      > come up with proved much too ugly, and much more trouble to build
      than I
      > believed the end result would be worth.
      >



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