17738Re: AF3 motor refit - beefing up the transom?
- Jun 1, 2008--- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, Rob Rohde-Szudy <robrohdeszudy@...>
>gear, which is twice the ratio you'll find on any other "high
> I'd stick with the seagull, myself. They have a 4:1 reduction
thrust" outboard. This means a bigger prop and a LOT more thrust at
the speeds relevant to a sailboat. With tides, I'd want that thrust.
Consider hanging onto it. (Otherwise let us know when you post it to
Ebay!) Don't let its age worry you. With some maintenance they can
last a very, very long time.
I don't know what horsepower the Seagull is but there is a lot
to be said for using what you already have. It sure does not
take much h.p. to push an AF3; I used an old 2 hp and almost
never went over 1/2 throttle.
>Though if you're going to use a metal bracket you could probably
> As for the transom, I'd go with what Max did. It worked well.
just add framing lumber where it bolts on and skip the plywood. Just
make sure there's MORE framing lumber in front of it, screwed to the
sides or wales to transfer the force to the hull more broadly. Just
remember that the strongest parts are the chines and wales, then get
the motor's force transferred to them and you'll be fine.
I would probably add a backing pad of plywood (say 1/2 inch or so)
on the inside of the transom where the bracket bolts, and put
some framing inside the "lazarette" to tie that pad into
the bulkhead ahead of the transom.
Also, an outboard mounted to one side of an AF3 is in danger of
dunking in a capsize. I would give some thought to re-mounting
the rudder off to one side so that the motor can be mounted
closer to the center of the transom.
A lifting bracket heps with the vertical positioning
of the engine; When you are sitting on the back deck
and the stern is down, you don't want the powerhead to
submerge, but when you go forward into the slot, the transom
can raise quite a bit, pulling the prop and water intake out
of the water.
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