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13308Re: Engine Question

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  • n8szy
    Aug 2, 2006
      --- In Michalak@yahoogroups.com, "vexatious2001" <cadbury112@...>
      > > I have a 1979 long shaft 6 Hp Evinrude
      > upper housing will not snug up to
      > > the lower housing. There is a 1/4" gap between the housings. I
      > > removed and replaced the lower lower end at least six times with
      > > same result. Each time I turned the power head and upper housing
      > upside
      > > down to rearrange the springs and bushings trapped up in power
      > > area with a dowel rod. I don't want to force anything. Is there
      > some
      > > secret that I am missing?
      > >
      > Good evening:
      > Did you have to disconnect the shift rod on this
      > engine in order to "drop" the lower unit?
      > If not, then you have a version where the shift
      > mechanism is spring-loaded to forward gear and the
      > shift lever also needs to be in forward gear in
      > order to re-install the lower unit.
      > Is the water tube actually seating in it's seal
      > or is it hitting the top of the water pump housing?
      > On those engines where the power head has to be removed
      > in order to disconnect the shift linkage and remove
      > the lower unit, the driveshaft must be rotated for the
      > pin at the top of the driveshaft (which the seal components
      > rest on) can pass through a slot in the exhaust (tower)
      > housing. The seal comoponents are then set on
      > top of the driveshaft, the powerhead being off.
      > Beyond that, the crankshaft splines may
      > not be lined up, requiring that the prop be slowly turned
      > 9engine in gear) in order to align the splines.
      > Yes, it can be frustrating getting the lower unit back
      > on_ it often takes me 3 or 4 tries before I get everything
      > lined up and in place. It helps to have the engine
      > in a vertical ("tilted all the way down") position and as
      > high off the ground as possible. Hang it up on a tall fence
      > or something like that, so that the prop is at about face
      > level.
      > Let us know how it goes.
      > Max

      Hi Max
      Thanks for commenting on the reassembly of the 6 hp.

      Yes, I had to disconnect the shift shaft at the opening created when
      I removed the four screws from the lower unit and slid the exhaust
      housing down to expose the coupling connector screw.

      Yes, the pump tube went into the pump grommet all seven times I
      reassembled the unit. I noticed thet there is a sequence to
      reassemble the lower unit to the exhaust housing: 1) slip pump tube
      into pump gromet, 2) slide housing up a little and attach shift
      connector, 3) slide splined power shaft up into the power head.

      Yes, I initially thought that the splines were catching on the mating
      splines in the power head so I 'stoned' all the sharp spline edges on
      the shaft.

      I noticed that the roll pin on the top of the shaft may fit in a slot
      on the housing casting where the shaft enteres the power head so I
      pulled the starter rope and prop as I wiggled the lower unit and
      gently pushed up to seat the castings together. It went easily
      together but stopped leaving a 1/4" gap between the housings.

      What sorta scares me is the spring and bushings that are captured by
      the exhaust housing in the area where the splined shaft is supposed
      to go up in the power head. When I turned the motor upside down and
      focused the beam of the flashlight on the splined area, I found the
      spring and bushing had rotated and blocked the path that the shaft
      would have to go. I grabbed a 1/4" dowel rod and realigned the
      spring and bushing the best I could. The washer or spring could be
      catching on the shaft stopping it from seating all the way. I really
      don't want to tear down the rest of the outboard to realign these

      I followed the rest of of the things you suggested ie rotating the
      prop and pulling the starter chord a bit as the units were pushed
      together. The outbord is mounted on a stand that is clamped to two
      saw horses so the pump is a about eye level.

      I tried to follow the two complete build up articles that you wrote,
      the OMC 5.5 and big twin. Parts of each article applied to the 6HP
      but it didn't exactly resemble either one in all details. O yeah, I
      have a 'shop manual' of 6 or 7 pages that I copied from a general
      outboard manual of that period.

      The last time I replaced a pump impeller on the 8hp Johnson, I though
      that I placed a spring, a washer and a busing on the splined shaft
      above the roll pin but I can't on this one since these parts are
      captured by the exhaust housing. Thanks for any other suggestions
      that you think of, I am stumped.

      Thanks again Max,
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