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For Iris

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  • Cat
    All I can suggest is that you either pre-soak the paper in distilled water, or make sure it was buffered with magnesium carbonate and not calcium carbonate.
    Message 1 of 3 , Jun 27, 2013
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      All I can suggest is that you either pre-soak the paper in distilled water, or make sure it was buffered with magnesium carbonate and not calcium carbonate. The paper I recently used worked perfectly, no buffers. This is a problem with printmakers, photographers (mats and backing for silver gelatin prints) and ink jet prints too. I do like Talas- don't know if this helps in the least. If I had the time and the space, I may be tempted to make my own paper- but I just don't have the time.
      Cat
    • irisnevins
      That is just too much work. When I marble in a day it can be 100 sheets or more at times. Paper companies tend to not tell you what they use, I have tried. I
      Message 2 of 3 , Jun 28, 2013
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        That is just too much work. When I marble in a day it can be 100 sheets or more at times. Paper companies tend to not tell you what they use, I have tried. I stick with TALAS because it works with no problem. Also keep in mind watercolor, which is my preferred method, since I do historic repro papers (acrylic colors never seem to have the same feel as the pre 1860 books), is less likely to stick than acrylic, which I think you are using. To soak and dry and alum would be a nightmare, but thanks for the info. What was the brand again.... I think it was Arches? It is considerably pricier than TALAS I think. Also I need a 70-80 pound text weight, not sure what yours is.
        iris
        www.marblingpaper.com



        On 06/28/13, Cat<catthom3@...> wrote:

        All I can suggest is that you either pre-soak the paper in distilled water, or make sure it was buffered with magnesium carbonate and not calcium carbonate. The paper I recently used worked perfectly, no buffers. This is a problem with printmakers, photographers (mats and backing for silver gelatin prints) and ink jet prints too. I do like Talas- don't know if this helps in the least. If I had the time and the space, I may be tempted to make my own paper- but I just don't have the time.
        Cat



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        yes wow.. paper can be a problem. You should all thank your lucky stars that you are in a 1st world country. Try getting paper ideal for marbling here in South
        Message 3 of 3 , Jun 28, 2013
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          yes wow.. paper can be a problem. You should all thank your lucky stars
          that you are in a 1st world country. Try getting paper ideal for marbling
          here in South Africa. I have spoilt reams and reams of paper... asking for
          Eltoro.. because i have tested it.. and i get given a ream of cartridge..
          argghhhhhhh..... that is after treating and marbling onto at least 20pgs..
          thinking... perhaps it is not the paper. it must be something else.. the
          treatment perhaps?

          The problem is that most of the universe buys paper to, write, paint or
          digitally print onto.. they don't realize the importance of absorbancy and
          wet wear. does the paper roll easy onto the tray and does it "bubble' when
          dry which means you have to iron it out, risking damaging the paper or can
          you simply press.

          I am also considering making my own paper.. have got my deckles almost
          sorted to the size of A3 and am exploring any additives to strengthen
          paper. Natural off course... and then to give the paper a coat of size when
          it has dried and been pressed. whahhahhhaaa.. I must sound like a monkey. I
          am so green when it comes to handmade papers..Any advice is welcome please.

          Larissa
          http://marbling.weebly.com/
          facebook really pumps..
          https://www.facebook.com/pages/SA-Marbling-iMagica/181984428540111?fref=ts



          On 28 June 2013 18:38, irisnevins <irisnevins@...> wrote:

          > **
          >
          >
          > That is just too much work. When I marble in a day it can be 100 sheets or
          > more at times. Paper companies tend to not tell you what they use, I have
          > tried. I stick with TALAS because it works with no problem. Also keep in
          > mind watercolor, which is my preferred method, since I do historic repro
          > papers (acrylic colors never seem to have the same feel as the pre 1860
          > books), is less likely to stick than acrylic, which I think you are using.
          > To soak and dry and alum would be a nightmare, but thanks for the info.
          > What was the brand again.... I think it was Arches? It is considerably
          > pricier than TALAS I think. Also I need a 70-80 pound text weight, not sure
          > what yours is.
          > iris
          > www.marblingpaper.com
          >
          > On 06/28/13, Cat<catthom3@...> wrote:
          >
          > All I can suggest is that you either pre-soak the paper in distilled
          > water, or make sure it was buffered with magnesium carbonate and not
          > calcium carbonate. The paper I recently used worked perfectly, no buffers.
          > This is a problem with printmakers, photographers (mats and backing for
          > silver gelatin prints) and ink jet prints too. I do like Talas- don't know
          > if this helps in the least. If I had the time and the space, I may be
          > tempted to make my own paper- but I just don't have the time.
          > Cat
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >


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