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Re: [Marbling] Digest Number 1837

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  • Del & Mary Stubbs
    Isaac - you must use alum - that is half of your problem, the other half is the primer. You will have the best success if you do not use primer - some sanding
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 3, 2010
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      Isaac - you must use alum - that is half of your problem, the other
      half is the primer. You will have the best success if you do not use
      primer - some sanding sealers may work, but not all of them. If you
      are determined to use sanding sealer - try sanding it a bit to rough
      it up, but this is not a sure fix. Some sandpaper could leave oil
      residue which would also be a problem. My suggestion would be to try
      using wood dyes if you want to color the wood.

      mary-celine




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      > 2. Marbling on Wood (NOT BORAX)
      > Posted by: "IsaacT" 120volts@... 120volts@...
      > Date: Fri Jul 2, 2010 12:37 pm ((PDT))
      >
      > I am trying to get going on the marbling stuff. I am not trying on
      > paper, fabric, or clothing. I am trying on wood. I saw the other
      > post, and I wanted to get some help not based off borax!
      >
      > I have questions based of Marbling with Carageenan.
      >
      > I have food grade carageenan. I believe that is not the problem,
      > because I can get paints to float, it does work.
      >
      > I have a piece of construction grade mohagany.
      >
      > My size is four gallons and it is in a 8 gallon bucket. This is not
      > normal for paper of fabrics, I know, but I want to get the piece of
      > wood painted with one dip. My ratio is 2 tablespoons per gallon.
      >
      > I am using acrylic paints made my Liquitex, which has been the best.
      >
      > I have attempted Testors enamal paints, which has been a failure.
      >
      > I use a gray primer on the wood, so my base coat will show up
      > right, and not harm the wood. I use a base coat and the primer,
      > becasue I do not wish for any wood to be shown after the marbling
      > process.
      >
      > The paints will sink, especially black, which I have tried to think
      > with water. That did not work. I have heard my carrageenan
      > thickness could be a problem. So my first question is, to what
      > consistency in thickness should I shoot for? To put what I have in
      > perspective I will put it on a scale. If 1 was water, and 10 was
      > caramel, my carageenan is most likely around 5, where I can use a
      > whisk to move it, but when put on my fingertips, It will stay and
      > give me a sticky felling. I have noticed in dharmas tut-vids, the
      > womens carrageenan fell out of her hands like water. So again, what
      > should I shoot for?
      >
      > After I have made a design in the carrageenan, I would dip my wood
      > in the bucket, wipe the leftovers, and pull it out. The
      > carrageenan will flow off the piece of wood, along with that the
      > colors seem to fade and flow off as well. It is not dry to the
      > touch, and the paint will run, but the majority of it will stay. My
      > next question, why is that and what is the fix, if there is one?
      >
      > I have heard from the Dharma tut-vid, the girl uses oil paint. That
      > stings me because I use enamel testors inside the carageenan and it
      > doesn't work at all. I thought enamel testors was oil. How does the
      > oil work?
      >
      > I have never tried alum, which was said to help it stick, but I
      > have seen people say that does not do it for them either, so Is
      > there anything else that will help me? I do not plan on buying the
      > "marbling paint" becasue I feel it has done all the fun
      > experimenting for me.
      >
      > Thanks, and please no borax.
      >
      > I will use the primer and then the basecoat, then alum that. After
      > that has been done, this i will marble.
      >
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      >
      > Messages in this topic (1)
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    • IsaacT
      Thank you! Could you help me with the thickness of the Carageenan. What is a good way to test If the thickness is best? You would think the paint would stay
      Message 2 of 3 , Jul 4, 2010
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        Thank you! Could you help me with the thickness of the Carageenan. What is a good way to test If the thickness is best? You would think the paint would stay afloat even though it was too thick, but maybe not.
      • irisnevins
        too thick will also make it sink...not allow it to spread enough. I use 1 TBS of the powder to two quarts of hot water. Some use cold water, it is soluble but
        Message 3 of 3 , Jul 4, 2010
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          too thick will also make it sink...not allow it to spread enough.

          I use 1 TBS of the powder to two quarts of hot water. Some use cold water, it is soluble but I get better results with hot. Then again I marble "all wrong" at times, having not been ever taught, but it works anyway. Tried all the ways and came back to my own. We each have differences that work.

          Iris Nevins
          www,marblingpaper.com


          ----- Original Message -----
          From: IsaacT<mailto:120volts@...>
          To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 8:38 PM
          Subject: [Marbling] Re: Digest Number 1837


          Thank you! Could you help me with the thickness of the Carageenan. What is a good way to test If the thickness is best? You would think the paint would stay afloat even though it was too thick, but maybe not.



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