Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: [Marbling] Re: Aluming Paper and cleaning it

Expand Messages
  • carylhanc@aol.com
    Hi, All. I have a chart on my studio wall that gives recipe (S!) for alum - anywhere from 1/2 TBSP (3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon) of alum per cup to 2 TBSP/cup
    Message 1 of 4 , Jan 15, 2010
      Hi, All.
      I have a chart on my studio wall that gives recipe (S!) for alum -
      anywhere from 1/2 TBSP (3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon) of alum per cup to 2 TBSP/cup
      for paper, and a different chart for aluming fabric. These recipes are
      from well known marblers: Sims, Hughes, Maurer, Skycraft, Schleicher. I know
      Sims marbles with methylcel, as do I. So you are using less alum than any
      of the published recipes I have found.

      Most sources will indicate that too little or too much alum will not work
      well to keep the pattern on the paper, and I have come to the conclusion that
      the absorption capabilities of the paper make a difference; if it is
      really absorbent, you need less alum.

      If I am going to do just a few sheets, I lay them out on the top of my
      washer or a counter top, put the alum solution in a plant mister bottle and
      spritz them, then wipe over the surface with a sponge to be sure the whole
      surface is dampened, and hang to dry. If I am doing a lot of paper, I put the
      solution is a pan that is large enough to accommodate the width of the paper,
      and drag the paper through it, let it drip and hang to dry. Then I keep
      my papers in a press until I need them. With the first method, you need a
      system to identify the alumed side (and I do not touch it with my tongue to
      taste - why ingest a chemical if you don't need to?), with the second system,
      both sides are alumed.

      To rinse, I pick up the paper from the bath, put it on a sheet of Plexiglas
      that is at an angle in my sink, and pour running water over it from a hose
      attached to the sink faucet. That way, if there is paint that is running,
      I can better direct the stream of water, or even increase the pressure of
      the stream if I need to with my thumb over the end of the hose.

      Hope that helps!
      Caryl Hancock, Indianapolis


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • dguff
      Hi all, I usually alum the paper the night before I marble. I mark an x on a lower corner of the back side and alum the other side. I use a regular kitchen
      Message 2 of 4 , Jan 15, 2010
        Hi all,

        I usually alum the paper the night before I marble. I mark an "x" on a lower corner of the back side and alum the other side. I use a regular kitchen sponge (kept only for this purpose) to moisten the paper, making sure all parts are covered. I then place my paper down alum side up and the next paper goes alum side down on the previous paper. This way, if any spot is missed, the adjoining paper transfers some of the alum solution. I do not make the paper soaking wet, just moist enough to cover the surface. I put about 4 to 6 sheets together (face to face - alum side to alum side) and then a large sheet of thin, very thin, cardboard and continue to stack in this manner. After stacking I put a piece of masonite on top for weight.

        Now before anyone goes ballistic on the "cardboard" spacers...they aren't on long enough to transfer any acidity. I've been doing this for 25 years, and have never had a problem with my alum or marbling. The next morning I restack all of my papers "x" side up and double check that the "x" is visible as I lay down the paper and that way I know that the alum side is going on the pattern and size.

        d.guffey


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Sue Cole
        I looked at what I sent and see that I screwed up. I meant to say that I use 1 TABLESPOON of alum per cup of hot water, not 1 teaspoon. Sorry about that.
        Message 3 of 4 , Jan 16, 2010
          I looked at what I sent and see that I screwed up. I meant to say that I
          use 1 TABLESPOON of alum per cup of hot water, not 1 teaspoon. Sorry about
          that. The alum I use comes from Dharma Trading. Their directions say:
          Dissolve 6-9 Tbsp. alum into 1 gallon of water to make a solution.

          I mark a code on the backside to tell me that is not alumned. I use several
          papers and when you use several white ones, it helps to know which one it
          was a couple of months later, when you are deciding whether or not to use it
          again. I flatten them after hanging and putting them in a plastic bag, with
          the marked side up, so they are ready to go as I reach for them.

          The ones I did yesterday on the Dick Blick 60# sketch paper came out well,
          but I would like a "harder" surface so the lines look crisper. Iris Nevins
          had suggested this paper, so I sent for some.

          Do you use "laid" surface or what are some of the papers that work better
          than others. They have apparently changed Canson MiTientes so that the alum
          shows up "frosted" on them. I have good and bad luck with this paper.

          I was going to go to my printer next week and see what he has. I think the
          heaviest paper he has is 65# as I recall.
          Thanks
          Sue


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.