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Re: Warming Carragheenan size / Incorporating wax

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  • hamburgerbuntpapier_de
    For how long? Until the temperature is right. It works. Susanne Krause
    Message 1 of 5 , Aug 17, 2007
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      For how long? Until the temperature is right. It works.

      Susanne Krause

      --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "pauliquann" <pauliquann@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      >
      > WOW! What a lot of info. So I should immerse my hands and arms into
      > the size (for how long) and this will do the trick of warming?
      > Is this for real?
      > Thanks,
      > PauliQuann
      >
      > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de"
      > <studio@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hi,
      > >
      > > sorry for the late reply, but there is only so much you can squeeze
      > into a day.
      > >
      > > Warming carragheenan size:
      > > Here is Ole Lundberg's recipe: just put your hands and arms in and
      > wait. Worked perfectly,
      > > and strangely enough there were no problems with hairs etc.
      > afterwards. We just worked
      > > very carefully as to cleaning the surface rather once more than one
      > time less.
      > >
      > > Incorporating wax:
      > > The very fact that wax is hydrophobe is what we need. If you can
      > persuade the wax to
      > > separate into tiny balls, you're there.
      > > With paste papers it is no problem at all, I just add the wax with
      > the boiling water. The
      > > ratio of max. 1% is very small. The wax doesn't solve without a
      > trace, it just separates from
      > > a lump of balls clinging together into single balls clinging to
      > molecules of starch. After
      > > drying, you give
      > > the sheets a firm (but careful) rubbing with a woolen cloth,
      > thereby 'flattening' the tiny
      > > balls easily and turning them into a minuscule film that is
      > protection as well as the base
      > > for a slight glazing. If the ratio is too high, the paper's surface
      > stays sticky in the way bees
      > > way is sticky. Naturally. So if you need a highly glazed and hard
      > surface and want to do it
      > > with wax, you cannot use pure bees wax. An addition of carnauba is
      > a good idea.
      > >
      > > For marbling, the wax needs to be solved before being incorporated
      > into the paints. What
      > > I'd try if I were a marbler is solving it in turpentine or boiling
      > water and adding it to the
      > > mass while the pigment mill is rotating. Or, another one of Ole
      > Lundberg's, try malty syrup
      > > instead, at a tiny ratio. Or add Blanc Fixe, that is ground felspar
      > (read, I believe, in
      > > Weichelt).
      > >
      > > For title papers (they need to be shiny in most cases), I use a
      > mixture I buy from a
      > > furniture restorer. It comprises of bees wax and carnauba, solved
      > in pure real turpentine
      > > oil. Comes in tins like old fashioned shoe polish, makes the life
      > ot the polisher
      > > considerably easier and is very smelly and not particularly good
      > for the respratory organs;
      > > to be used only in a well aired room or with suitable protection,
      > otherwise it can make you
      > > 'drunk' or headachy etc. Rubbed on in a very thin layer with a firm
      > ball made of non-pilling
      > > cloth such as linen or a linen-cotton mix (weaved, not knitted), it
      > can later be polished to
      > > just the required
      > > sheen. I have never accepted orders of full size sheets polished in
      > that way, but I know
      > > peole who do.
      > >
      > > To have this clearly understood: nothing can fully match the
      > machine made sheen of the
      > > 19th century mass produced papers or the special surface achieved
      > with a stone hanging
      > > downwards from the ceiling in a clever contraption and being
      > operated by a pitiable
      > > person moving their arms to and fro for hours on end. We can only
      > come close.
      > >
      > > Susanne Krause
      > >
      >
    • pauliquann
      Okay then...I ll give it a try. I m a warm blooded person anyway; my hands are always on the warm side. Thanks again Warm Wishes, Paulette ... into ... squeeze
      Message 2 of 5 , Aug 19, 2007
      • 0 Attachment
        Okay then...I'll give it a try. I'm a warm blooded person anyway;
        my hands are always on the warm side.
        Thanks again
        Warm Wishes,
        Paulette
        --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de"
        <studio@...> wrote:
        >
        > For how long? Until the temperature is right. It works.
        >
        > Susanne Krause
        >
        > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "pauliquann" <pauliquann@> wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > WOW! What a lot of info. So I should immerse my hands and arms
        into
        > > the size (for how long) and this will do the trick of warming?
        > > Is this for real?
        > > Thanks,
        > > PauliQuann
        > >
        > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de"
        > > <studio@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Hi,
        > > >
        > > > sorry for the late reply, but there is only so much you can
        squeeze
        > > into a day.
        > > >
        > > > Warming carragheenan size:
        > > > Here is Ole Lundberg's recipe: just put your hands and arms in
        and
        > > wait. Worked perfectly,
        > > > and strangely enough there were no problems with hairs etc.
        > > afterwards. We just worked
        > > > very carefully as to cleaning the surface rather once more than
        one
        > > time less.
        > > >
        > > > Incorporating wax:
        > > > The very fact that wax is hydrophobe is what we need. If you
        can
        > > persuade the wax to
        > > > separate into tiny balls, you're there.
        > > > With paste papers it is no problem at all, I just add the wax
        with
        > > the boiling water. The
        > > > ratio of max. 1% is very small. The wax doesn't solve without a
        > > trace, it just separates from
        > > > a lump of balls clinging together into single balls clinging to
        > > molecules of starch. After
        > > > drying, you give
        > > > the sheets a firm (but careful) rubbing with a woolen cloth,
        > > thereby 'flattening' the tiny
        > > > balls easily and turning them into a minuscule film that is
        > > protection as well as the base
        > > > for a slight glazing. If the ratio is too high, the paper's
        surface
        > > stays sticky in the way bees
        > > > way is sticky. Naturally. So if you need a highly glazed and
        hard
        > > surface and want to do it
        > > > with wax, you cannot use pure bees wax. An addition of carnauba
        is
        > > a good idea.
        > > >
        > > > For marbling, the wax needs to be solved before being
        incorporated
        > > into the paints. What
        > > > I'd try if I were a marbler is solving it in turpentine or
        boiling
        > > water and adding it to the
        > > > mass while the pigment mill is rotating. Or, another one of Ole
        > > Lundberg's, try malty syrup
        > > > instead, at a tiny ratio. Or add Blanc Fixe, that is ground
        felspar
        > > (read, I believe, in
        > > > Weichelt).
        > > >
        > > > For title papers (they need to be shiny in most cases), I use a
        > > mixture I buy from a
        > > > furniture restorer. It comprises of bees wax and carnauba,
        solved
        > > in pure real turpentine
        > > > oil. Comes in tins like old fashioned shoe polish, makes the
        life
        > > ot the polisher
        > > > considerably easier and is very smelly and not particularly
        good
        > > for the respratory organs;
        > > > to be used only in a well aired room or with suitable
        protection,
        > > otherwise it can make you
        > > > 'drunk' or headachy etc. Rubbed on in a very thin layer with a
        firm
        > > ball made of non-pilling
        > > > cloth such as linen or a linen-cotton mix (weaved, not
        knitted), it
        > > can later be polished to
        > > > just the required
        > > > sheen. I have never accepted orders of full size sheets
        polished in
        > > that way, but I know
        > > > peole who do.
        > > >
        > > > To have this clearly understood: nothing can fully match the
        > > machine made sheen of the
        > > > 19th century mass produced papers or the special surface
        achieved
        > > with a stone hanging
        > > > downwards from the ceiling in a clever contraption and being
        > > operated by a pitiable
        > > > person moving their arms to and fro for hours on end. We can
        only
        > > come close.
        > > >
        > > > Susanne Krause
        > > >
        > >
        >
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