- Dear List,
I'm a wannabe marbler and have been experimenting (this after a
20-year hiatus after unseccesful experimenting in the late '70s). I
didn't want to post a question to the list until I had read all (yes,
ALL) previous postings, which I have just completed. John Ang has been
most helpful in answering questions, but I've come up with a problem
that has him stumped.
I'm using water colors on caragheen with properly alumed paper. I
consistently get a row of dark spots along the line of the paper's
first contact with the size. I hold diagonally opposite corners of the
paper and place the middle in first, then lay down the sides. Except
for these spots, everything else goes as normal. This is a little
difficult to describe, so I've posted a sample on the Web. If anyone
would like to have a look and offer suggestions, I'd be most grateful.
The URL is:
I have now started laying the paper down from one edge. This has
transferred the spots to the edge instead of the middle, which makes
more of the paper useable, but the problem persists.
I'd like to thank all those who have made the marbling list a great
success, especially the professional marblers who have been so free
with their information and suggestions.
Best to all,
- Those look like air bubbles that are popping when the paper touches down.
Why they appear so consistently in the same area on numerous sheets is a
question......maybe you touch the paper down too fast initially?
>Hi! I didn't look at your website but I am familiar with the little line
>I'm using water colors on caragheen with properly alumed paper. I
>consistently get a row of dark spots along the line of the paper's
>first contact with the size. I hold diagonally opposite corners of the
>paper and place the middle in first, then lay down the sides. Except
>for these spots, everything else goes as normal.
of darker paint spots that you describe! I can't remember now exactly what
I finally decided I was doing not right. But I do remember that the
problem showed up quite consistently with some kinds of paper and not so
much with others.
I was trying various papers made for people doing prints (figuring that
those papers did not contain the same amount of size that is in the
watercolor paper, which resists taking up the alum and paint). I got a
selection from the local art store:
- Canson Mi-Teintes (80 lb)
- Lenox (140lb)
- Stonehenge White (140 lb)
The Stonehenge paper took color really nicely BUT was really prone to these
dots. The Canson was only moderate with the dots but I didn't find the
color was as vivid, especially on the textured side of the paper. The
Lenox was a good compromise. I see in my notes that I called them
"concentration dots". I wonder if the paint was somewhat thicker than it
needed to be so that it blobbed where it first grabbed on?
Even if it turns out to be an issue of how you lay down the paper, some
papers are definitely more fussy about this than others. (And try varying
the sharpness of the angle where the paper first touches the surface?)
- Looking over the weights of the paper.....The Canson was the least trouble
I'll bet because it was lightest weight. Try something a bit lighter and
more flexible like a 70LB text weight. Local print shops may have some
excess Classic Laid or Classic Linen in these weights they may sell or give
you, they marble very well. Not available in art stores.
In Art stores the Strathmore charcoal papers tend to do well. Usually about
70lb, though not sure. They are nice and light though. You don't want to go
too lightweight or they may buckle or even tear when wet.