Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

Expand Messages
  • irisnevins
    Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it s $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after
    Message 1 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
    • 0 Attachment
      Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it's $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after a while.

      The way to go is to not do the whole sheet, just cut it a little bigger than the size you need. The pieces go faster and more evenly. It it a lovely sheen and is waterproof from the little bit of wax. I love the way it looks.

      Iris Nevins
      www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
      To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:02 PM
      Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


      Not at all waterproof!
      Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask
      for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave menacing estimates
      before their noses. Usually that helps.

      Susanne Krause

      --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
      >
      > Does this dry waterproof?
      >
      > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap
      and glue sizing.
      >
      > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice
      classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines
      and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
      >
      > Iris Nevins
      > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
      > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
      > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
      > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
      >
      >
      > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
      > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
      > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed
      with a
      > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil.
      For
      > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
      > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
      > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house
      it).
      > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
      > many.
      >
      > Susanne Krause
      >
      > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
      <irisnevins@> wrote:
      > >
      > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as
      possible,
      > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
      > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it
      slowly
      > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is
      tricky
      > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
      > >
      > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat
      as
      > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it
      and
      > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
      > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
      > >
      > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be
      sorry!
      > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are
      talking
      > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder
      how to
      > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket
      science,
      > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the
      teeny
      > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
      > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little
      cloudy.
      > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
      > >
      > > Iris Nevins
      > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
      www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
      > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
      Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
      > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
      > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
      > >
      > >
      > > Hi Joan,
      > >
      > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
      > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for
      the
      > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with
      very
      > little
      > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the
      object. It
      > is
      > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets,
      the
      > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
      > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
      > >
      > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
      > material) .
      > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all
      paints).
      > Spray
      > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
      > takes
      > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush
      with
      > a
      > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
      > (Outside
      > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
      > >
      > > What a list of second-best ideas.
      > >
      > > Susanne Krause
      > >
      > >
      > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
      Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
      > <joan@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
      > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
      > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
      > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
      > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
      > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
      > > >
      > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
      > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
      > > >
      > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
      > > > style. . . . . . Joan
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >





      Yahoo! Groups Links





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • sixshort
      Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly difficult and time
      Message 2 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
      • 0 Attachment
        Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
        you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
        difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
        know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
        paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
        fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
        as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
        into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
        replies.

        Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
        Joan--

        In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
        >
        > Not at all waterproof!
        > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
        customers tend to ask
        > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
        menacing estimates
        > before their noses. Usually that helps.
        >
        > Susanne Krause
        >
        > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Does this dry waterproof?
        > >
        > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
        used some sort of soap
        > and glue sizing.
        > >
        > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
        easiest. It is a nice
        > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
        marbling machines
        > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
        > >
        > > Iris Nevins
        > > www.marblingpaper.com
        > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@>
        > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
        > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
        > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
        > >
        > >
        > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
        one I had forgotten,
        > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
        > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
        technical gelatine mixed
        > with a
        > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
        brushed thinly with oil.
        > For
        > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
        marblers had special
        > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
        wooden contraption (I
        > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
        and the space to house
        > it).
        > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
        show, and the rejects are
        > > many.
        > >
        > > Susanne Krause
        > >
        > > --- In
        Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins"
        > <irisnevins@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
        spread on, as evenly as
        > possible,
        > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
        of plexiglass over it and
        > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
        and you are coated. Do it
        > slowly
        > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
        paper in spots... it is
        > tricky
        > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
        huge sheet.
        > > >
        > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
        of paraffin, not to coat
        > as
        > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
        living daylights out of it
        > and
        > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
        papers. I sell hand held
        > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
        > > >
        > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
        doing a lot, you may be
        > sorry!
        > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
        marbling it. You are
        > talking
        > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
        always tell the binder
        > how to
        > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
        price! It is not rocket
        > science,
        > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
        papers on the covers, the
        > teeny
        > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
        can take getting wet by
        > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
        paper looking a little
        > cloudy.
        > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
        Nothing fancy.
        > > >
        > > > Iris Nevins
        > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://
        > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
        > > > ----- Original Message -----
        > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
        > > > To:
        Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
        > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
        > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
        > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Hi Joan,
        > > >
        > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
        friendly but determined
        > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
        determination is decisive for
        > the
        > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
        wax them again with
        > very
        > > little
        > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
        already on the
        > object. It
        > > is
        > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
        working with the sheets,
        > the
        > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
        > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
        > > >
        > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
        is not Australia's pet
        > > material) .
        > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
        papers and with all
        > paints).
        > > Spray
        > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
        Australian summer, and
        > > takes
        > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
        the surface and brush
        > with
        > > a
        > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
        use a soft woolen cloth
        > > (Outside
        > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
        > > >
        > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
        > > >
        > > > Susanne Krause
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > --- In
        Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
        > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
        > > <joan@> wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
        anyone know how
        > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
        glazing block
        > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
        of a
        > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
        brushed or sprayed
        > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
        the papers
        > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
        finish.
        > > > >
        > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
        manufactured, or
        > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
        > > > >
        > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
        Peter Sellers
        > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
        > > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >
      • irisnevins
        Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you
        Message 3 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
        • 0 Attachment
          Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you can likely get a rock/mineral shop to make something to fit your hand with about a 2" long edge, about 1/8" - 1/4" at most thick. Just rub the living daylights out of it.

          Iris Nevins
          www.marblingpaper.com
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: sixshort<mailto:joan@...>
          To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:59 AM
          Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


          Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
          you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
          difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
          know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
          paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
          fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
          as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
          into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
          replies.

          Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
          Joan--

          In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
          >
          > Not at all waterproof!
          > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
          customers tend to ask
          > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
          menacing estimates
          > before their noses. Usually that helps.
          >
          > Susanne Krause
          >
          > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Does this dry waterproof?
          > >
          > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
          used some sort of soap
          > and glue sizing.
          > >
          > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
          easiest. It is a nice
          > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
          marbling machines
          > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
          > >
          > > Iris Nevins
          > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
          > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@>
          > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
          > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
          > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
          > >
          > >
          > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
          one I had forgotten,
          > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
          > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
          technical gelatine mixed
          > with a
          > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
          brushed thinly with oil.
          > For
          > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
          marblers had special
          > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
          wooden contraption (I
          > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
          and the space to house
          > it).
          > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
          show, and the rejects are
          > > many.
          > >
          > > Susanne Krause
          > >
          > > --- In
          Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
          > <irisnevins@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
          spread on, as evenly as
          > possible,
          > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
          of plexiglass over it and
          > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
          and you are coated. Do it
          > slowly
          > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
          paper in spots... it is
          > tricky
          > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
          huge sheet.
          > > >
          > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
          of paraffin, not to coat
          > as
          > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
          living daylights out of it
          > and
          > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
          papers. I sell hand held
          > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
          > > >
          > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
          doing a lot, you may be
          > sorry!
          > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
          marbling it. You are
          > talking
          > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
          always tell the binder
          > how to
          > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
          price! It is not rocket
          > science,
          > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
          papers on the covers, the
          > teeny
          > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
          can take getting wet by
          > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
          paper looking a little
          > cloudy.
          > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
          Nothing fancy.
          > > >
          > > > Iris Nevins
          > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
          > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
          > > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
          > > > To:
          Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
          > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
          > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
          > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Hi Joan,
          > > >
          > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
          friendly but determined
          > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
          determination is decisive for
          > the
          > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
          wax them again with
          > very
          > > little
          > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
          already on the
          > object. It
          > > is
          > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
          working with the sheets,
          > the
          > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
          > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
          > > >
          > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
          is not Australia's pet
          > > material) .
          > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
          papers and with all
          > paints).
          > > Spray
          > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
          Australian summer, and
          > > takes
          > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
          the surface and brush
          > with
          > > a
          > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
          use a soft woolen cloth
          > > (Outside
          > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
          > > >
          > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
          > > >
          > > > Susanne Krause
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > --- In
          Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
          > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
          > > <joan@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
          anyone know how
          > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
          glazing block
          > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
          of a
          > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
          brushed or sprayed
          > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
          the papers
          > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
          finish.
          > > > >
          > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
          manufactured, or
          > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
          > > > >
          > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
          Peter Sellers
          > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Yahoo! Groups Links
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          >





          Yahoo! Groups Links





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • Lokman Torun
          Hi Susanne, How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the
          Message 4 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
          • 0 Attachment
            Hi Susanne,
            How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
            Thanks?
            Lokman



            ----- Original Message ----
            From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
            To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
            Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

            Hi Joan,

            try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
            buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
            sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
            additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
            not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
            sides have a very different 'pull'.
            I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

            Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
            Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
            with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
            about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
            veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
            only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

            What a list of second-best ideas.

            Susanne Krause

            --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
            > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
            > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
            > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
            > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
            > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
            >
            > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
            > where large sheets can be purchased?
            >
            > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
            > style. . . . . . Joan
            >






            ____________________________________________________________________________________
            Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
            http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • irisnevins
            They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the
            Message 5 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
            • 0 Attachment
              They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the jellies) lightly over the paper, then burnish it. The wax is not to coat the paper as much as to let the burnisher glide. I can get a great shine, though not as shiny as the machine glazed/polished Victorian papers. I like the hand rubbed one better personally. I use a small hand held agate with a 1/8" or a little larger edge, and the edge is about 1 1/2" It is hard work but it shines fast. I wouldn't do the whole paper, but rather the smaller cut pieces you will be using. It can hurt your arm or hands after a while!

              Iris Nevins
              www.marblingpaper.com
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: Lokman Torun<mailto:lokmantorun@...>
              To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:09 AM
              Subject: Re: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


              Hi Susanne,
              How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
              Thanks?
              Lokman



              ----- Original Message ----
              From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...<mailto:studio@...>>
              To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
              Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

              Hi Joan,

              try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
              buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
              sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
              additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
              not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
              sides have a very different 'pull'.
              I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

              Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
              Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
              with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
              about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
              veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
              only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

              What a list of second-best ideas.

              Susanne Krause

              --- In Marbling@yahoogroup<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroup> s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
              > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
              > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
              > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
              > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
              > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
              >
              > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
              > where large sheets can be purchased?
              >
              > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
              > style. . . . . . Joan
              >






              ____________________________________________________________________________________
              Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
              http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433>

              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




              Yahoo! Groups Links





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • Jake Benson
              Lokman, For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with pure soap,
              Message 6 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
              • 0 Attachment
                Lokman,

                For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in
                Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with
                pure soap, which is them known as "saponified wax". Instructions are
                found in several manuals, such as those by Woolnough, Halfer, and
                Kinder. A small amount of powdered saponified wax was then added to
                the paints. I think this can be observed in early 19th marbled sheets
                where the color appears to be a very heavy paint layer. when held up
                to the light, the color appears to be very shiny, but the surrounding
                paper is quite dull.

                Jake Benson


                --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, Lokman Torun <lokmantorun@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hi Susanne,
                > How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it
                is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic
                while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating
                marbled papers with beeswax?
                > Thanks?
                > Lokman
                >
                >
                >
                > ----- Original Message ----
                > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
                > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                >
                > Hi Joan,
                >
                > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly
                but determined
                > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination
                is decisive for the
                > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax
                them again with very little
                > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already
                on the object. It is
                > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with
                the sheets, the
                > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                >
                > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not
                Australia's pet material) .
                > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and
                with all paints). Spray
                > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                Australian summer, and takes
                > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the
                surface and brush with a
                > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a
                soft woolen cloth (Outside
                > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                >
                > What a list of second-best ideas.
                >
                > Susanne Krause
                >
                > --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                > >
                > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                > >
                > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                > > style. . . . . . Joan
                > >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                ____________________________________________________________________________________
                > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone
                who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                > http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.