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Re: Glazed papers

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  • hamburgerbuntpapier_de
    Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten, Iris. Sorry, Joan. The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets
    Message 1 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
    • 0 Attachment
      Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
      Iris. Sorry, Joan.
      The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed with a
      few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil. For
      one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
      constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
      wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers – and the space to house it).
      Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
      many.

      Susanne Krause

      --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
      >
      > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible,
      a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
      press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it slowly
      and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is tricky
      and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
      >
      > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat as
      much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it and
      kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
      burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
      >
      > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be sorry!
      And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are talking
      about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder how to
      do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket science,
      it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the teeny
      layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
      accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little cloudy.
      Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
      >
      > Iris Nevins
      > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
      > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
      > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
      >
      >
      > Hi Joan,
      >
      > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
      > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
      > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very
      little
      > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It
      is
      > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
      > sides have a very different 'pull'.
      > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
      >
      > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
      material) .
      > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints).
      Spray
      > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
      takes
      > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with
      a
      > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
      (Outside
      > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
      >
      > What a list of second-best ideas.
      >
      > Susanne Krause
      >
      >
      > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "sixshort"
      <joan@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
      > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
      > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
      > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
      > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
      > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
      > >
      > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
      > > where large sheets can be purchased?
      > >
      > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
      > > style. . . . . . Joan
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • irisnevins
      Does this dry waterproof? They used to of course, calendar the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap and glue sizing. I find unless you need a
      Message 2 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
      • 0 Attachment
        Does this dry waterproof?

        They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap and glue sizing.

        I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!

        Iris Nevins
        www.marblingpaper.com
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
        To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
        Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


        Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
        Iris. Sorry, Joan.
        The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed with a
        few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil. For
        one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
        constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
        wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house it).
        Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
        many.

        Susanne Krause

        --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
        >
        > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible,
        a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
        press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it slowly
        and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is tricky
        and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
        >
        > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat as
        much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it and
        kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
        burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
        >
        > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be sorry!
        And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are talking
        about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder how to
        do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket science,
        it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the teeny
        layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
        accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little cloudy.
        Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
        >
        > Iris Nevins
        > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
        > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
        > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
        > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
        >
        >
        > Hi Joan,
        >
        > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
        > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
        > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very
        little
        > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It
        is
        > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
        > sides have a very different 'pull'.
        > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
        >
        > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
        material) .
        > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints).
        Spray
        > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
        takes
        > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with
        a
        > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
        (Outside
        > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
        >
        > What a list of second-best ideas.
        >
        > Susanne Krause
        >
        >
        > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
        <joan@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
        > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
        > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
        > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
        > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
        > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
        > >
        > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
        > > where large sheets can be purchased?
        > >
        > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
        > > style. . . . . . Joan
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >





        Yahoo! Groups Links





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • hamburgerbuntpapier_de
        Not at all waterproof! Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask for them. Dissuading them is not always easy.
        Message 3 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
        • 0 Attachment
          Not at all waterproof!
          Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask
          for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave menacing estimates
          before their noses. Usually that helps.

          Susanne Krause

          --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
          >
          > Does this dry waterproof?
          >
          > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap
          and glue sizing.
          >
          > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice
          classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines
          and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
          >
          > Iris Nevins
          > www.marblingpaper.com
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
          > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
          > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
          > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
          >
          >
          > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
          > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
          > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed
          with a
          > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil.
          For
          > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
          > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
          > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house
          it).
          > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
          > many.
          >
          > Susanne Krause
          >
          > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins"
          <irisnevins@> wrote:
          > >
          > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as
          possible,
          > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
          > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it
          slowly
          > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is
          tricky
          > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
          > >
          > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat
          as
          > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it
          and
          > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
          > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
          > >
          > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be
          sorry!
          > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are
          talking
          > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder
          how to
          > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket
          science,
          > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the
          teeny
          > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
          > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little
          cloudy.
          > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
          > >
          > > Iris Nevins
          > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://
          www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
          > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
          > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
          Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
          > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
          > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
          > >
          > >
          > > Hi Joan,
          > >
          > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
          > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for
          the
          > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with
          very
          > little
          > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the
          object. It
          > is
          > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets,
          the
          > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
          > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
          > >
          > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
          > material) .
          > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all
          paints).
          > Spray
          > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
          > takes
          > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush
          with
          > a
          > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
          > (Outside
          > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
          > >
          > > What a list of second-best ideas.
          > >
          > > Susanne Krause
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
          Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
          > <joan@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
          > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
          > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
          > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
          > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
          > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
          > > >
          > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
          > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
          > > >
          > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
          > > > style. . . . . . Joan
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > Yahoo! Groups Links
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • irisnevins
          Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it s $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after
          Message 4 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
          • 0 Attachment
            Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it's $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after a while.

            The way to go is to not do the whole sheet, just cut it a little bigger than the size you need. The pieces go faster and more evenly. It it a lovely sheen and is waterproof from the little bit of wax. I love the way it looks.

            Iris Nevins
            www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>

            ----- Original Message -----
            From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
            To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:02 PM
            Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


            Not at all waterproof!
            Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask
            for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave menacing estimates
            before their noses. Usually that helps.

            Susanne Krause

            --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
            >
            > Does this dry waterproof?
            >
            > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap
            and glue sizing.
            >
            > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice
            classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines
            and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
            >
            > Iris Nevins
            > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
            > ----- Original Message -----
            > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
            > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
            > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
            > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
            >
            >
            > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
            > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
            > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed
            with a
            > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil.
            For
            > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
            > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
            > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house
            it).
            > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
            > many.
            >
            > Susanne Krause
            >
            > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
            <irisnevins@> wrote:
            > >
            > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as
            possible,
            > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
            > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it
            slowly
            > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is
            tricky
            > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
            > >
            > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat
            as
            > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it
            and
            > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
            > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
            > >
            > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be
            sorry!
            > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are
            talking
            > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder
            how to
            > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket
            science,
            > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the
            teeny
            > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
            > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little
            cloudy.
            > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
            > >
            > > Iris Nevins
            > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
            www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
            > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
            > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
            Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
            > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
            > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
            > >
            > >
            > > Hi Joan,
            > >
            > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
            > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for
            the
            > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with
            very
            > little
            > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the
            object. It
            > is
            > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets,
            the
            > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
            > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
            > >
            > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
            > material) .
            > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all
            paints).
            > Spray
            > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
            > takes
            > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush
            with
            > a
            > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
            > (Outside
            > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
            > >
            > > What a list of second-best ideas.
            > >
            > > Susanne Krause
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
            Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
            > <joan@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
            > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
            > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
            > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
            > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
            > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
            > > >
            > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
            > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
            > > >
            > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
            > > > style. . . . . . Joan
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >





            Yahoo! Groups Links





            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • sixshort
            Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly difficult and time
            Message 5 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
            • 0 Attachment
              Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
              you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
              difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
              know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
              paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
              fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
              as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
              into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
              replies.

              Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
              Joan--

              In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
              >
              > Not at all waterproof!
              > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
              customers tend to ask
              > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
              menacing estimates
              > before their noses. Usually that helps.
              >
              > Susanne Krause
              >
              > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Does this dry waterproof?
              > >
              > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
              used some sort of soap
              > and glue sizing.
              > >
              > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
              easiest. It is a nice
              > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
              marbling machines
              > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
              > >
              > > Iris Nevins
              > > www.marblingpaper.com
              > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@>
              > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
              > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
              > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
              > >
              > >
              > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
              one I had forgotten,
              > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
              > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
              technical gelatine mixed
              > with a
              > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
              brushed thinly with oil.
              > For
              > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
              marblers had special
              > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
              wooden contraption (I
              > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
              and the space to house
              > it).
              > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
              show, and the rejects are
              > > many.
              > >
              > > Susanne Krause
              > >
              > > --- In
              Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins"
              > <irisnevins@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
              spread on, as evenly as
              > possible,
              > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
              of plexiglass over it and
              > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
              and you are coated. Do it
              > slowly
              > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
              paper in spots... it is
              > tricky
              > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
              huge sheet.
              > > >
              > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
              of paraffin, not to coat
              > as
              > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
              living daylights out of it
              > and
              > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
              papers. I sell hand held
              > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
              > > >
              > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
              doing a lot, you may be
              > sorry!
              > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
              marbling it. You are
              > talking
              > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
              always tell the binder
              > how to
              > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
              price! It is not rocket
              > science,
              > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
              papers on the covers, the
              > teeny
              > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
              can take getting wet by
              > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
              paper looking a little
              > cloudy.
              > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
              Nothing fancy.
              > > >
              > > > Iris Nevins
              > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://
              > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
              > > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
              > > > To:
              Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
              > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
              > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
              > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > Hi Joan,
              > > >
              > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
              friendly but determined
              > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
              determination is decisive for
              > the
              > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
              wax them again with
              > very
              > > little
              > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
              already on the
              > object. It
              > > is
              > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
              working with the sheets,
              > the
              > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
              > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
              > > >
              > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
              is not Australia's pet
              > > material) .
              > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
              papers and with all
              > paints).
              > > Spray
              > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
              Australian summer, and
              > > takes
              > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
              the surface and brush
              > with
              > > a
              > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
              use a soft woolen cloth
              > > (Outside
              > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
              > > >
              > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
              > > >
              > > > Susanne Krause
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > --- In
              Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
              > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
              > > <joan@> wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
              anyone know how
              > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
              glazing block
              > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
              of a
              > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
              brushed or sprayed
              > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
              the papers
              > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
              finish.
              > > > >
              > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
              manufactured, or
              > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
              > > > >
              > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
              Peter Sellers
              > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
              > > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              >
            • irisnevins
              Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you
              Message 6 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
              • 0 Attachment
                Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you can likely get a rock/mineral shop to make something to fit your hand with about a 2" long edge, about 1/8" - 1/4" at most thick. Just rub the living daylights out of it.

                Iris Nevins
                www.marblingpaper.com
                ----- Original Message -----
                From: sixshort<mailto:joan@...>
                To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:59 AM
                Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


                Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
                you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
                difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
                know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
                paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
                fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
                as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
                into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
                replies.

                Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
                Joan--

                In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
                >
                > Not at all waterproof!
                > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
                customers tend to ask
                > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
                menacing estimates
                > before their noses. Usually that helps.
                >
                > Susanne Krause
                >
                > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Does this dry waterproof?
                > >
                > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
                used some sort of soap
                > and glue sizing.
                > >
                > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
                easiest. It is a nice
                > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
                marbling machines
                > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
                > >
                > > Iris Nevins
                > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
                > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@>
                > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
                > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
                > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                > >
                > >
                > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
                one I had forgotten,
                > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
                > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
                technical gelatine mixed
                > with a
                > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
                brushed thinly with oil.
                > For
                > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
                marblers had special
                > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
                wooden contraption (I
                > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
                and the space to house
                > it).
                > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
                show, and the rejects are
                > > many.
                > >
                > > Susanne Krause
                > >
                > > --- In
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
                > <irisnevins@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
                spread on, as evenly as
                > possible,
                > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
                of plexiglass over it and
                > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
                and you are coated. Do it
                > slowly
                > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
                paper in spots... it is
                > tricky
                > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
                huge sheet.
                > > >
                > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
                of paraffin, not to coat
                > as
                > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
                living daylights out of it
                > and
                > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
                papers. I sell hand held
                > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
                > > >
                > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
                doing a lot, you may be
                > sorry!
                > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
                marbling it. You are
                > talking
                > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
                always tell the binder
                > how to
                > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
                price! It is not rocket
                > science,
                > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
                papers on the covers, the
                > teeny
                > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
                can take getting wet by
                > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
                paper looking a little
                > cloudy.
                > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
                Nothing fancy.
                > > >
                > > > Iris Nevins
                > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
                > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
                > > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
                > > > To:
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
                > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
                > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
                > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Hi Joan,
                > > >
                > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
                friendly but determined
                > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
                determination is decisive for
                > the
                > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
                wax them again with
                > very
                > > little
                > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
                already on the
                > object. It
                > > is
                > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
                working with the sheets,
                > the
                > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                > > >
                > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
                is not Australia's pet
                > > material) .
                > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
                papers and with all
                > paints).
                > > Spray
                > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                Australian summer, and
                > > takes
                > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
                the surface and brush
                > with
                > > a
                > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
                use a soft woolen cloth
                > > (Outside
                > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                > > >
                > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
                > > >
                > > > Susanne Krause
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
                > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
                > > <joan@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
                anyone know how
                > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
                glazing block
                > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
                of a
                > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
                brushed or sprayed
                > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
                the papers
                > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
                finish.
                > > > >
                > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
                manufactured, or
                > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                > > > >
                > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
                Peter Sellers
                > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
                > > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > >
                >





                Yahoo! Groups Links





                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Lokman Torun
                Hi Susanne, How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the
                Message 7 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                • 0 Attachment
                  Hi Susanne,
                  How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
                  Thanks?
                  Lokman



                  ----- Original Message ----
                  From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
                  To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                  Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

                  Hi Joan,

                  try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
                  buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
                  sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
                  additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
                  not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
                  sides have a very different 'pull'.
                  I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

                  Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
                  Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
                  with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
                  about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
                  veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
                  only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

                  What a list of second-best ideas.

                  Susanne Krause

                  --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                  > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                  > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                  > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                  > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                  > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                  >
                  > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                  > where large sheets can be purchased?
                  >
                  > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                  > style. . . . . . Joan
                  >






                  ____________________________________________________________________________________
                  Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                  http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • irisnevins
                  They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the
                  Message 8 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                  • 0 Attachment
                    They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the jellies) lightly over the paper, then burnish it. The wax is not to coat the paper as much as to let the burnisher glide. I can get a great shine, though not as shiny as the machine glazed/polished Victorian papers. I like the hand rubbed one better personally. I use a small hand held agate with a 1/8" or a little larger edge, and the edge is about 1 1/2" It is hard work but it shines fast. I wouldn't do the whole paper, but rather the smaller cut pieces you will be using. It can hurt your arm or hands after a while!

                    Iris Nevins
                    www.marblingpaper.com
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    From: Lokman Torun<mailto:lokmantorun@...>
                    To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:09 AM
                    Subject: Re: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


                    Hi Susanne,
                    How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
                    Thanks?
                    Lokman



                    ----- Original Message ----
                    From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...<mailto:studio@...>>
                    To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                    Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

                    Hi Joan,

                    try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
                    buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
                    sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
                    additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
                    not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
                    sides have a very different 'pull'.
                    I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

                    Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
                    Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
                    with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
                    about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
                    veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
                    only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

                    What a list of second-best ideas.

                    Susanne Krause

                    --- In Marbling@yahoogroup<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroup> s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                    > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                    > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                    > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                    > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                    > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                    >
                    > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                    > where large sheets can be purchased?
                    >
                    > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                    > style. . . . . . Joan
                    >






                    ____________________________________________________________________________________
                    Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                    http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433>

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                    Yahoo! Groups Links





                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • Jake Benson
                    Lokman, For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with pure soap,
                    Message 9 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Lokman,

                      For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in
                      Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with
                      pure soap, which is them known as "saponified wax". Instructions are
                      found in several manuals, such as those by Woolnough, Halfer, and
                      Kinder. A small amount of powdered saponified wax was then added to
                      the paints. I think this can be observed in early 19th marbled sheets
                      where the color appears to be a very heavy paint layer. when held up
                      to the light, the color appears to be very shiny, but the surrounding
                      paper is quite dull.

                      Jake Benson


                      --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, Lokman Torun <lokmantorun@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Hi Susanne,
                      > How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it
                      is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic
                      while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating
                      marbled papers with beeswax?
                      > Thanks?
                      > Lokman
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > ----- Original Message ----
                      > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
                      > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
                      > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                      > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                      >
                      > Hi Joan,
                      >
                      > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly
                      but determined
                      > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination
                      is decisive for the
                      > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax
                      them again with very little
                      > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already
                      on the object. It is
                      > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with
                      the sheets, the
                      > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                      > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                      >
                      > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not
                      Australia's pet material) .
                      > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and
                      with all paints). Spray
                      > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                      Australian summer, and takes
                      > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the
                      surface and brush with a
                      > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a
                      soft woolen cloth (Outside
                      > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                      >
                      > What a list of second-best ideas.
                      >
                      > Susanne Krause
                      >
                      > --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                      > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                      > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                      > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                      > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                      > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                      > >
                      > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                      > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                      > >
                      > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                      > > style. . . . . . Joan
                      > >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
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