Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

Expand Messages
  • irisnevins
    For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible, a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
    Message 1 of 12 , Jun 13, 2007
    • 0 Attachment
      For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible, a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it slowly and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is tricky and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.

      What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat as much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it and kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.

      This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be sorry! And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are talking about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder how to do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket science, it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the teeny layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little cloudy. Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.

      Iris Nevins
      www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
      To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
      Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


      Hi Joan,

      try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
      buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
      sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
      additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
      not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
      sides have a very different 'pull'.
      I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

      Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
      Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
      with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
      about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
      veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
      only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

      What a list of second-best ideas.

      Susanne Krause


      --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
      > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
      > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
      > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
      > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
      > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
      >
      > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
      > where large sheets can be purchased?
      >
      > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
      > style. . . . . . Joan
      >





      Yahoo! Groups Links





      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • hamburgerbuntpapier_de
      Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten, Iris. Sorry, Joan. The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets
      Message 2 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
      • 0 Attachment
        Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
        Iris. Sorry, Joan.
        The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed with a
        few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil. For
        one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
        constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
        wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers – and the space to house it).
        Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
        many.

        Susanne Krause

        --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
        >
        > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible,
        a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
        press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it slowly
        and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is tricky
        and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
        >
        > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat as
        much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it and
        kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
        burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
        >
        > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be sorry!
        And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are talking
        about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder how to
        do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket science,
        it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the teeny
        layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
        accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little cloudy.
        Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
        >
        > Iris Nevins
        > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
        > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
        > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
        > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
        >
        >
        > Hi Joan,
        >
        > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
        > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
        > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very
        little
        > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It
        is
        > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
        > sides have a very different 'pull'.
        > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
        >
        > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
        material) .
        > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints).
        Spray
        > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
        takes
        > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with
        a
        > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
        (Outside
        > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
        >
        > What a list of second-best ideas.
        >
        > Susanne Krause
        >
        >
        > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "sixshort"
        <joan@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
        > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
        > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
        > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
        > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
        > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
        > >
        > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
        > > where large sheets can be purchased?
        > >
        > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
        > > style. . . . . . Joan
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • irisnevins
        Does this dry waterproof? They used to of course, calendar the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap and glue sizing. I find unless you need a
        Message 3 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
        • 0 Attachment
          Does this dry waterproof?

          They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap and glue sizing.

          I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!

          Iris Nevins
          www.marblingpaper.com
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
          To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
          Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


          Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
          Iris. Sorry, Joan.
          The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed with a
          few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil. For
          one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
          constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
          wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house it).
          Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
          many.

          Susanne Krause

          --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
          >
          > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as possible,
          a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
          press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it slowly
          and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is tricky
          and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
          >
          > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat as
          much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it and
          kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
          burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
          >
          > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be sorry!
          And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are talking
          about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder how to
          do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket science,
          it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the teeny
          layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
          accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little cloudy.
          Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
          >
          > Iris Nevins
          > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
          > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
          > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
          > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
          >
          >
          > Hi Joan,
          >
          > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
          > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
          > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very
          little
          > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It
          is
          > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
          > sides have a very different 'pull'.
          > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
          >
          > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
          material) .
          > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints).
          Spray
          > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
          takes
          > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with
          a
          > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
          (Outside
          > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
          >
          > What a list of second-best ideas.
          >
          > Susanne Krause
          >
          >
          > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
          <joan@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
          > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
          > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
          > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
          > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
          > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
          > >
          > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
          > > where large sheets can be purchased?
          > >
          > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
          > > style. . . . . . Joan
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >





          Yahoo! Groups Links





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • hamburgerbuntpapier_de
          Not at all waterproof! Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask for them. Dissuading them is not always easy.
          Message 4 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
          • 0 Attachment
            Not at all waterproof!
            Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask
            for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave menacing estimates
            before their noses. Usually that helps.

            Susanne Krause

            --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
            >
            > Does this dry waterproof?
            >
            > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap
            and glue sizing.
            >
            > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice
            classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines
            and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
            >
            > Iris Nevins
            > www.marblingpaper.com
            > ----- Original Message -----
            > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
            > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
            > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
            > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
            >
            >
            > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
            > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
            > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed
            with a
            > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil.
            For
            > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
            > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
            > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house
            it).
            > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
            > many.
            >
            > Susanne Krause
            >
            > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins"
            <irisnevins@> wrote:
            > >
            > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as
            possible,
            > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
            > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it
            slowly
            > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is
            tricky
            > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
            > >
            > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat
            as
            > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it
            and
            > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
            > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
            > >
            > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be
            sorry!
            > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are
            talking
            > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder
            how to
            > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket
            science,
            > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the
            teeny
            > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
            > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little
            cloudy.
            > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
            > >
            > > Iris Nevins
            > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://
            www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
            > > ----- Original Message -----
            > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
            > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
            Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
            > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
            > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
            > >
            > >
            > > Hi Joan,
            > >
            > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
            > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for
            the
            > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with
            very
            > little
            > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the
            object. It
            > is
            > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets,
            the
            > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
            > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
            > >
            > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
            > material) .
            > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all
            paints).
            > Spray
            > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
            > takes
            > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush
            with
            > a
            > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
            > (Outside
            > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
            > >
            > > What a list of second-best ideas.
            > >
            > > Susanne Krause
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
            Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
            > <joan@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
            > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
            > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
            > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
            > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
            > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
            > > >
            > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
            > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
            > > >
            > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
            > > > style. . . . . . Joan
            > > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            > >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • irisnevins
            Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it s $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after
            Message 5 of 12 , Jun 14, 2007
            • 0 Attachment
              Yes, if someone insisted I tell them it's $30 a sheet or they can buy one of my burnishers for it and a bar of wax and do it themselves! It really hurts after a while.

              The way to go is to not do the whole sheet, just cut it a little bigger than the size you need. The pieces go faster and more evenly. It it a lovely sheen and is waterproof from the little bit of wax. I love the way it looks.

              Iris Nevins
              www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>

              ----- Original Message -----
              From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@...>
              To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:02 PM
              Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


              Not at all waterproof!
              Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and customers tend to ask
              for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave menacing estimates
              before their noses. Usually that helps.

              Susanne Krause

              --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@...> wrote:
              >
              > Does this dry waterproof?
              >
              > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They used some sort of soap
              and glue sizing.
              >
              > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be easiest. It is a nice
              classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the marbling machines
              and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
              >
              > Iris Nevins
              > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
              > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
              > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
              > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
              >
              >
              > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This one I had forgotten,
              > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
              > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with technical gelatine mixed
              with a
              > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates brushed thinly with oil.
              For
              > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old marblers had special
              > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a wooden contraption (I
              > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers - and the space to house
              it).
              > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture show, and the rejects are
              > many.
              >
              > Susanne Krause
              >
              > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
              <irisnevins@> wrote:
              > >
              > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof, spread on, as evenly as
              possible,
              > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece of plexiglass over it and
              > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back, and you are coated. Do it
              slowly
              > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the paper in spots... it is
              tricky
              > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a huge sheet.
              > >
              > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar of paraffin, not to coat
              as
              > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the living daylights out of it
              and
              > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most papers. I sell hand held
              > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
              > >
              > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are doing a lot, you may be
              sorry!
              > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for marbling it. You are
              talking
              > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I always tell the binder
              how to
              > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the price! It is not rocket
              science,
              > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer papers on the covers, the
              teeny
              > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it can take getting wet by
              > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the paper looking a little
              cloudy.
              > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket. Nothing fancy.
              > >
              > > Iris Nevins
              > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
              www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
              > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
              > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
              Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
              > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
              > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
              > >
              > >
              > > Hi Joan,
              > >
              > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
              > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for
              the
              > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with
              very
              > little
              > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the
              object. It
              > is
              > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets,
              the
              > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
              > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
              > >
              > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet
              > material) .
              > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all
              paints).
              > Spray
              > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and
              > takes
              > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush
              with
              > a
              > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth
              > (Outside
              > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
              > >
              > > What a list of second-best ideas.
              > >
              > > Susanne Krause
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
              Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
              > <joan@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
              > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
              > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
              > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
              > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
              > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
              > > >
              > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
              > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
              > > >
              > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
              > > > style. . . . . . Joan
              > > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >





              Yahoo! Groups Links





              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • sixshort
              Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly difficult and time
              Message 6 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
              • 0 Attachment
                Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
                you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
                difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
                know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
                paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
                fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
                as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
                into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
                replies.

                Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
                Joan--

                In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
                >
                > Not at all waterproof!
                > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
                customers tend to ask
                > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
                menacing estimates
                > before their noses. Usually that helps.
                >
                > Susanne Krause
                >
                > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Does this dry waterproof?
                > >
                > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
                used some sort of soap
                > and glue sizing.
                > >
                > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
                easiest. It is a nice
                > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
                marbling machines
                > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
                > >
                > > Iris Nevins
                > > www.marblingpaper.com
                > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio@>
                > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
                > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                > >
                > >
                > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
                one I had forgotten,
                > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
                > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
                technical gelatine mixed
                > with a
                > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
                brushed thinly with oil.
                > For
                > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
                marblers had special
                > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
                wooden contraption (I
                > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
                and the space to house
                > it).
                > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
                show, and the rejects are
                > > many.
                > >
                > > Susanne Krause
                > >
                > > --- In
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins"
                > <irisnevins@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
                spread on, as evenly as
                > possible,
                > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
                of plexiglass over it and
                > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
                and you are coated. Do it
                > slowly
                > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
                paper in spots... it is
                > tricky
                > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
                huge sheet.
                > > >
                > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
                of paraffin, not to coat
                > as
                > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
                living daylights out of it
                > and
                > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
                papers. I sell hand held
                > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
                > > >
                > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
                doing a lot, you may be
                > sorry!
                > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
                marbling it. You are
                > talking
                > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
                always tell the binder
                > how to
                > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
                price! It is not rocket
                > science,
                > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
                papers on the covers, the
                > teeny
                > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
                can take getting wet by
                > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
                paper looking a little
                > cloudy.
                > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
                Nothing fancy.
                > > >
                > > > Iris Nevins
                > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://
                > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>
                > > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@...>
                > > > To:
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
                > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
                > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
                > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Hi Joan,
                > > >
                > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
                friendly but determined
                > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
                determination is decisive for
                > the
                > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
                wax them again with
                > very
                > > little
                > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
                already on the
                > object. It
                > > is
                > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
                working with the sheets,
                > the
                > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                > > >
                > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
                is not Australia's pet
                > > material) .
                > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
                papers and with all
                > paints).
                > > Spray
                > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                Australian summer, and
                > > takes
                > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
                the surface and brush
                > with
                > > a
                > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
                use a soft woolen cloth
                > > (Outside
                > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                > > >
                > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
                > > >
                > > > Susanne Krause
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In
                Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:
                > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "sixshort"
                > > <joan@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
                anyone know how
                > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
                glazing block
                > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
                of a
                > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
                brushed or sprayed
                > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
                the papers
                > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
                finish.
                > > > >
                > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
                manufactured, or
                > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                > > > >
                > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
                Peter Sellers
                > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
                > > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > >
                >
              • irisnevins
                Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you
                Message 7 of 12 , Jun 15, 2007
                • 0 Attachment
                  Hey...it is easy to do the burnisher and paraffin. Just physically rough after a few. I use a polished agate slice in effect. I do have them for sale but you can likely get a rock/mineral shop to make something to fit your hand with about a 2" long edge, about 1/8" - 1/4" at most thick. Just rub the living daylights out of it.

                  Iris Nevins
                  www.marblingpaper.com
                  ----- Original Message -----
                  From: sixshort<mailto:joan@...>
                  To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:59 AM
                  Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


                  Thanks so much, Iris and Susanne - so much detailed information that
                  you have spent time putting together. It all sounds terribly
                  difficult and time consuming, but I will try some of the ideas just to
                  know what I am about if someone insists on such glazed papers. The
                  paper I am copying at present is one such, and looks marvelous, but
                  fortunately the bookbinder has not asked me to do the glazing as well
                  as the marbling. I still can scarcely believe that a question sent
                  into cyberspace can have such immediate, generous and highly informed
                  replies.

                  Far more satisfying and personal than consulting Wikipedia! Regards,
                  Joan--

                  In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "hamburgerbuntpapier_de" <studio@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Not at all waterproof!
                  > Problem is, there simply are a lot of these super shiny papers, and
                  customers tend to ask
                  > for them. Dissuading them is not always easy. If they insist, I wave
                  menacing estimates
                  > before their noses. Usually that helps.
                  >
                  > Susanne Krause
                  >
                  > --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>, "irisnevins" <irisnevins@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Does this dry waterproof?
                  > >
                  > > They used to of course, "calendar" the papers by machine. They
                  used some sort of soap
                  > and glue sizing.
                  > >
                  > > I find unless you need a mirror finish, the paraffin method to be
                  easiest. It is a nice
                  > classy looking sheen that approximates what you'd see prior to the
                  marbling machines
                  > and machine glazing. Very tasteful and shiny enough!
                  > >
                  > > Iris Nevins
                  > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>
                  > > ----- Original Message -----
                  > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>@>
                  > > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>
                  > > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 3:29 AM
                  > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Oh dear, I knew there was something wrong with my posting! This
                  one I had forgotten,
                  > > Iris. Sorry, Joan.
                  > > The traditional method is as follows: brush the sheets with
                  technical gelatine mixed
                  > with a
                  > > few drops of ox gall and then stick the sheets to glass plates
                  brushed thinly with oil.
                  > For
                  > > one sheet, use the window pane. For many sheets, the old
                  marblers had special
                  > > constructions with glass plates standing one behind another in a
                  wooden contraption (I
                  > > wish I had something like this for diagonally dribbled papers -
                  and the space to house
                  > it).
                  > > Shiny as a mirror, but even fingers with a summery moisture
                  show, and the rejects are
                  > > many.
                  > >
                  > > Susanne Krause
                  > >
                  > > --- In
                  Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>, "irisnevins"
                  > <irisnevins@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > > For a real mirror finish, but I think it is not waterproof,
                  spread on, as evenly as
                  > possible,
                  > > a methyl cel solution, made up as if to marble, and set a piece
                  of plexiglass over it and
                  > > press in a press at least 24 hours or until dry. Peel it back,
                  and you are coated. Do it
                  > slowly
                  > > and carefully or some may adhere to the plexiglass and not the
                  paper in spots... it is
                  > tricky
                  > > and smaller pieces, cut to size for the book are better than a
                  huge sheet.
                  > > >
                  > > > What I would personally do, is a very light coating from a bar
                  of paraffin, not to coat
                  > as
                  > > much as to allow the burnisher to glide easily. Then run the
                  living daylights out of it
                  > and
                  > > kill your arm in the process and you get a nice shine on most
                  papers. I sell hand held
                  > > burnishers with a flat edge, agate, about 1 1/2" - 2" edges.
                  > > >
                  > > > This is really the bookbinder's job if they wish. If you are
                  doing a lot, you may be
                  > sorry!
                  > > And I would likely charge more for burnishing a sheet than for
                  marbling it. You are
                  > talking
                  > > about serious physical labor. How many do you need to do? I
                  always tell the binder
                  > how to
                  > > do it if they wish. They take that option when they hear the
                  price! It is not rocket
                  > science,
                  > > it just hurts after a while! It is good though esp. for outer
                  papers on the covers, the
                  > teeny
                  > > layer of paraffin seals water color marbling in very well and it
                  can take getting wet by
                  > > accident. You want the teeniest layer, otherwise it leaves the
                  paper looking a little
                  > cloudy.
                  > > Plain paraffin bars, from the canning aisle in the supermarket.
                  Nothing fancy.
                  > > >
                  > > > Iris Nevins
                  > > > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://>
                  > www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/<http://www.marblingpaper.com<http://www.marblingpaper.com/>>>
                  > > > ----- Original Message -----
                  > > > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio<mailto:studio>>@...>
                  > > > To:
                  Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
                  > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>
                  > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:00 PM
                  > > > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > Hi Joan,
                  > > >
                  > > > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a
                  friendly but determined
                  > > > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your
                  determination is decisive for
                  > the
                  > > > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to
                  wax them again with
                  > very
                  > > little
                  > > > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are
                  already on the
                  > object. It
                  > > is
                  > > > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before
                  working with the sheets,
                  > the
                  > > > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                  > > > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                  > > >
                  > > > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch
                  is not Australia's pet
                  > > material) .
                  > > > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all
                  papers and with all
                  > paints).
                  > > Spray
                  > > > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                  Australian summer, and
                  > > takes
                  > > > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto
                  the surface and brush
                  > with
                  > > a
                  > > > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or
                  use a soft woolen cloth
                  > > (Outside
                  > > > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                  > > >
                  > > > What a list of second-best ideas.
                  > > >
                  > > > Susanne Krause
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In
                  Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto>:
                  > Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>>>, "sixshort"
                  > > <joan@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does
                  anyone know how
                  > > > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate
                  glazing block
                  > > > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know
                  of a
                  > > > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be
                  brushed or sprayed
                  > > > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if
                  the papers
                  > > > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier
                  finish.
                  > > > >
                  > > > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is
                  manufactured, or
                  > > > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                  > > > >
                  > > > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true
                  Peter Sellers
                  > > > > style. . . . . . Joan
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  > >
                  >





                  Yahoo! Groups Links





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                • Lokman Torun
                  Hi Susanne, How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the
                  Message 8 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Hi Susanne,
                    How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
                    Thanks?
                    Lokman



                    ----- Original Message ----
                    From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
                    To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                    Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

                    Hi Joan,

                    try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
                    buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
                    sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
                    additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
                    not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
                    sides have a very different 'pull'.
                    I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

                    Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
                    Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
                    with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
                    about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
                    veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
                    only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

                    What a list of second-best ideas.

                    Susanne Krause

                    --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                    > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                    > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                    > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                    > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                    > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                    >
                    > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                    > where large sheets can be purchased?
                    >
                    > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                    > style. . . . . . Joan
                    >






                    ____________________________________________________________________________________
                    Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                    http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433

                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  • irisnevins
                    They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the
                    Message 9 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                    • 0 Attachment
                      They did used to grind it into the paint formula. I never tried it. If I want a glaze I run a bar of paraffin (from the supermarket canning aisle, or with the jellies) lightly over the paper, then burnish it. The wax is not to coat the paper as much as to let the burnisher glide. I can get a great shine, though not as shiny as the machine glazed/polished Victorian papers. I like the hand rubbed one better personally. I use a small hand held agate with a 1/8" or a little larger edge, and the edge is about 1 1/2" It is hard work but it shines fast. I wouldn't do the whole paper, but rather the smaller cut pieces you will be using. It can hurt your arm or hands after a while!

                      Iris Nevins
                      www.marblingpaper.com
                      ----- Original Message -----
                      From: Lokman Torun<mailto:lokmantorun@...>
                      To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:09 AM
                      Subject: Re: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers


                      Hi Susanne,
                      How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating marbled papers with beeswax?
                      Thanks?
                      Lokman



                      ----- Original Message ----
                      From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...<mailto:studio@...>>
                      To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                      Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers

                      Hi Joan,

                      try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly but determined
                      buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination is decisive for the
                      sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax them again with very little
                      additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already on the object. It is
                      not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with the sheets, the
                      sides have a very different 'pull'.
                      I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.

                      Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not Australia's pet material) .
                      Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and with all paints). Spray
                      with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in Australian summer, and takes
                      about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the surface and brush with a
                      veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a soft woolen cloth (Outside
                      only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).

                      What a list of second-best ideas.

                      Susanne Krause

                      --- In Marbling@yahoogroup<mailto:Marbling@yahoogroup> s.com, "sixshort" <joan@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                      > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                      > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                      > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                      > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                      > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                      >
                      > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                      > where large sheets can be purchased?
                      >
                      > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                      > style. . . . . . Joan
                      >






                      ____________________________________________________________________________________
                      Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                      http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433<http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433>

                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




                      Yahoo! Groups Links





                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Jake Benson
                      Lokman, For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with pure soap,
                      Message 10 of 12 , Aug 13, 2007
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Lokman,

                        For marbling, straight beeswax was never added to marbling pints in
                        Europe and the US. It was prepared first by melting it together with
                        pure soap, which is them known as "saponified wax". Instructions are
                        found in several manuals, such as those by Woolnough, Halfer, and
                        Kinder. A small amount of powdered saponified wax was then added to
                        the paints. I think this can be observed in early 19th marbled sheets
                        where the color appears to be a very heavy paint layer. when held up
                        to the light, the color appears to be very shiny, but the surrounding
                        paper is quite dull.

                        Jake Benson


                        --- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, Lokman Torun <lokmantorun@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > Hi Susanne,
                        > How do you incorporate beeswax into the paints? Do you mean that it
                        is added to the paints before marbling? One is highly hydrophobic
                        while the others are water soluble materials? Or do you mean coating
                        marbled papers with beeswax?
                        > Thanks?
                        > Lokman
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > ----- Original Message ----
                        > From: hamburgerbuntpapier_de <studio@...>
                        > To: Marbling@yahoogroups.com
                        > Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 8:00:01 PM
                        > Subject: [Marbling] Re: Glazed papers
                        >
                        > Hi Joan,
                        >
                        > try incorporating beeswax in the paints, give the sheets a friendly
                        but determined
                        > buffering when they are dry and out of the press. Your determination
                        is decisive for the
                        > sheen. If the users need the paper extra-shiny, tell them to wax
                        them again with very little
                        > additional wax, strong pressure and high speed when they are already
                        on the object. It is
                        > not a good idea to have much wax on the surface before working with
                        the sheets, the
                        > sides have a very different 'pull'.
                        > I deem max. 1% wax is about the amount that's advisable.
                        >
                        > Alternatives: brush with wheat paste (I know, wheat starch is not
                        Australia's pet material) .
                        > Brush with methylcellulose 1000, 4% (doesn't work on all papers and
                        with all paints). Spray
                        > with shiny film (ugh). Use a glass runner (not advisable in
                        Australian summer, and takes
                        > about as long as an agate stone). Strew talcum powder onto the
                        surface and brush with a
                        > veryveryvery soft brush like the ones lithographers use, or use a
                        soft woolen cloth (Outside
                        > only! Talcum is not the best friend of respiratory organs).
                        >
                        > What a list of second-best ideas.
                        >
                        > Susanne Krause
                        >
                        > --- In Marbling@yahoogroup s.com, "sixshort" <joan@> wrote:
                        > >
                        > > Hello fellow marblers and other paper decorators. Does anyone know how
                        > > to glaze marbled papers? I don't have a huge agate glazing block
                        > > dangling from my ceiling right now, and would like to know of a
                        > > simpler solution, something really easy that can be brushed or sprayed
                        > > onto the paper. I use Renaissance Microcrystalline wax if the papers
                        > > need to be sealed with wax, but sometimes I need a shinier finish.
                        > >
                        > > By the way, does anyone know where Texoprint paper is manufactured, or
                        > > where large sheets can be purchased?
                        > >
                        > > "So much to learn, so little time" she whines in true Peter Sellers
                        > > style. . . . . . Joan
                        > >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        ____________________________________________________________________________________
                        > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone
                        who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
                        > http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545433
                        >
                        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        >
                      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.