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Re: Suminagashi on Loew-Cornell rice paper

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  • sixshort
    -Hi, It sounds as if you are using Higgins fadeproof inks for your sumi, which should work equally well for drawing and rice paper. I have had no success with
    Message 1 of 4 , Jan 6, 2007
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      -Hi, It sounds as if you are using Higgins fadeproof inks for your
      sumi, which should work equally well for drawing and rice paper. I
      have had no success with inks, which just disperse and sink. I use
      Saieki paints (used to be called Boku Undo or Sakura) which are very
      reliable. They marble "rice paper" very well. I lay the paper
      slowly, corner to corner as for regular marbling, and let it sit for a
      minute or so to absorb the paint. To lift, I lay a dowel under one
      end and gently lift to the draining board. Good luck with your inks.
      Joan -- In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, "peninkwords" <peninkwords@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > I'm a new suminagashi marbler and have been experimenting to see
      > what works for me. I'm making suminagashi paper for handmade
      > books. I graduated myself from practicing on inexpensive Strathmore
      > drawing paper to rice paper (Loew-Cornell). I am frustrated with
      > the rice paper. No matter what method I try, I always get white
      > marks, air bubbles, and hesitation marks with the rice paper. I'm
      > using 12 inches by 14 inches. Is it because the paper is too
      > lightweight or is my piece too big? Is it the paper or just me? It
      > doesn't grab equally as did the 10 X 12 inch drawing paper. I
      > didn't have these defects when using the drawing paper. Does anyone
      > have past beginner experience with this?
      >
      > I've been having a lot of fun with fractured designs (discovered by
      > accident by using Higgins orange ink). When I want more brilliant
      > colors with my other Higgins inks (fadeproof are the only ones that
      > seem to work), I've been adding a tablespoon of white vingear to the
      > water. The bonus is that it helps stop a lot of the washing off of
      > the color).
      >
      > ~Dawn
      >
    • DaveorRobin Olson
      Dawn, Working with rice paper and strathmore are very different. I have been in your shoes. All you need is more practice. There is a definite feel one has
      Message 2 of 4 , Jan 6, 2007
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        Dawn,
        Working with rice paper and strathmore are very
        different. I have been in your shoes. All you need is
        more practice. There is a definite "feel" one has to
        develop to get the rice paper on the water without
        hesitaiton marks and bubbles. It was interesting
        reading your post today. This past weekend I did some
        suminagashi after not having done any for a couple of
        years. I had the exact same problem .I remember
        thinking how out of practice I was. In the past I used
        to do suminagashi on fabric more than on paper.I find
        it easier to do on fabric than on paper.Either way
        hang in there it is a wonderful beautiful artform.
        Robin olson

        --- peninkwords <peninkwords@...> wrote:

        > I'm a new suminagashi marbler and have been
        > experimenting to see
        > what works for me. I'm making suminagashi paper for
        > handmade
        > books. I graduated myself from practicing on
        > inexpensive Strathmore
        > drawing paper to rice paper (Loew-Cornell). I am
        > frustrated with
        > the rice paper. No matter what method I try, I
        > always get white
        > marks, air bubbles, and hesitation marks with the
        > rice paper. I'm
        > using 12 inches by 14 inches. Is it because the
        > paper is too
        > lightweight or is my piece too big? Is it the paper
        > or just me? It
        > doesn't grab equally as did the 10 X 12 inch drawing
        > paper. I
        > didn't have these defects when using the drawing
        > paper. Does anyone
        > have past beginner experience with this?
        >
        > I've been having a lot of fun with fractured designs
        > (discovered by
        > accident by using Higgins orange ink). When I want
        > more brilliant
        > colors with my other Higgins inks (fadeproof are the
        > only ones that
        > seem to work), I've been adding a tablespoon of
        > white vingear to the
        > water. The bonus is that it helps stop a lot of the
        > washing off of
        > the color).
        >
        > ~Dawn
        >
        >


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      • peninkwords
        Thanks for the replies - makes me feel connected to other people w/ the same obsessions. I was adding a tablespoon of vinegar to my water before applying the
        Message 3 of 4 , Jan 10, 2007
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          Thanks for the replies - makes me feel connected to other people w/
          the same obsessions.

          I was adding a tablespoon of vinegar to my water before applying the
          Higgins inks to get a better color. I am now thinking this might not
          be a good idea.
          Does the vinegar make the paper now have an acid in it?
          And is this amount of vinegar enough to destroy the paper eventually?
          I'm afraid the answer will be yes.
          There may be a new ink collection in my future...

          thanks,
          Dawn
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