Re: [Marbling] alum
- I don't think the later solution is less weak. It may cloud a bit from "paper sludge" absobed by the sponge you keep dipping in, but I have never had any alum weakening, except in cases where you marble "damp" and if it sits too long, especially in hot humid weather, the alum seems to go a bit weak, all the way to totally ineffective.
After nearly three decades of marbling I concluded, at least for myself, the best and easiest way to deal with paper and alum is to alum ahead, as much as I want, hundreds of sheets if I want, and to alum in 55% humidity or less, and to also store the papers in the same humidity (after line drying overnight and flattening under boards). I have experimented on papers kept for many years this way and the alum is still good.
As for fabric, I would do the same, though I wouldn't keep the fabric once alumed for years....allegedly the alum can corrode the fabric. It has never seemed to corrode any paper though. I use half strength alum on fabric and it works fine.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 6:58 AM
Subject: [Marbling] alum
a question for the more chemist minded - when aluminng large quantities of something, for
instance scarves or paper, can anyone definitively say that the alum solution that was full
strength when one started the aluming process is still full strength at the end of aluming
these items. In other words, does the product being alumed draw off the alum and at the
end perhaps the last sheet of paper or scarf does not get as much alum on it as did the first
Just trying to figure out why some scarves/paper come out more pastel than others.
Granted it could be the amount of paint thrown on the methy cel or carrageenan, but perhaps
there id another explanaion....
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]