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applying finish & product tip

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  • del&maryStubbs
    Thanks Linda - I will try this and email what results I have. I m anxious to try it....something that never occurred to me to try. I thought I would pass
    Message 1 of 1 , Apr 29, 2002
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      Thanks Linda - I will try this and email what results I have. I'm
      anxious to try it....something that never occurred to me to try.

      I thought I would pass on a "product tip" to the group. For those of
      you who are applying finishes - I have found a great alternative to
      steel wool. (I agree - avoid steel wooling in between thin coats as it
      is SO easy to rub into the marble pattern - then you are sunk).

      Anyway - I discovered a cloth polishing paper sold by Rio Grande
      (800-545-6566). The name of the product is "WetorDry Tri-M-Ite
      Polishing Paper. It is a cloth backed polishing paper. It comes in 400
      to 8000 grit.....the fact that it is cloth backed relieves the problem
      of scratching caused by other fine paper sandpapers and even steel
      wool. I have had problems at times with fine steel wool scratching -
      seems like they sometimes have contamination in there - and I also don't
      like how steel wool leaves a wool dusting on everything.

      Anyway - the grits on these cloth abrasives are very uniform and they do
      a TREMENDOUS job of levelling finishes (with use of a pad behind
      it).....they work well between coats of finish - being the least likely
      to cut too far - when I compare it to other choices). They also leave
      a mirror finish - leaving NO trace of sanding lines once you get to 1200
      grit. They just to a great job of polishing - particularly a contoured
      surface. (they also can be used with on other materials - metals
      etc.). Hope this is of use to some of you folks. Sincerely - Mary

      Linda Hohneke wrote:

      > Mary--
      > 1. Cut approximately 6 x 6 piece of the top, denser knit
      > section of the panty hose or a larger section of the leg area.
      > It will be wrapped up into a ball and used to dip into the container
      > of finish and to apply the finish to the object so it should be
      > easy to hold and to control.
      > 2. Wear close fitting gloves to protect your hands from the
      > finish.
      > 3. Saturate the hose with finish (I prefer to use a satin
      > finish varnish or polyurethene and no, I do not thin it beofe
      > using), apply finish to object, working to get the finish worked unto
      > the surface without leaving obvious glossy streaks on the
      > surface when the object is viewed in a raking light. This means using
      > longer, smoother strokes and not working the finish beyond being
      > tacky. This takes some practice.
      > 4. Once you are satisfied that you have no glossy areas, which
      > indicate a heavier application of the finish, let the object dry
      > thoroughly.
      > 5. Each application is a very thin layer of finish. The steel
      > wool roughing of the surface is done with a very LIGHT touch
      > because you do not want to go through the layer of finish and more
      > especially IF you are doing this type of finish OVER a marbled
      > or other decorative surface.
      > 6. Apply layers using this method until you have achieved the
      > soft hand-rubbed appearing finish you desire. You will need to
      > saturate your "ball" of nylon hose with less of the finish with each
      > successive layer applied. I find applying polyurethene
      > this way doesn't result in the heavy thick layer of finish that I
      > personally dislike on wood objects. Usually three coats of
      > finish will achieve the look -- sometimes only two coats and other
      > times more depending upon the object. I have found the finish
      > to be fairly durable.
      > 7. I realize that the pieces you are working with are not
      > furniture, but wood turned pieces so you may want to do some
      > experimenting. I have used the above method to turn a marbled paper
      > covered particle board into a "marble" table top for the guest
      > bedroom, but I skipped using the fine steel wool surface roughing step
      > between layers of polyurethane. The
      > table top repels moisture and has a soft finish. It is a SLOW
      > process and it may not provide the look you desire. Hope this
      > has answered some of the questions you had....
      > Good Luck!
      > Linda
      > _
      > ______________________________________________________________________
      > ________________________________________________________________________
      > Message: 2
      > Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 19:26:28 -0000
      > From: "northernlights2n" <mdstubbs@...>
      > Subject: applying finish
      > Dear Linda -
      > This method of applying 'varnish types' of finishes sounds
      > perfect......can you clarify what you mean by "a chunk of nylon hose"
      > -
      > can you elaborate on the method of application?
      > I'm trying to picture this...........is it a nylon just wrapped up
      > into a ball and you dip it in the finish and wipe it on the piece
      > ....or do
      > you wrap a nylon around a foam or regular paint brush........or around
      > a rag or paper towel? It seems like just a wrapped up nylon
      > would still gather too much finish resulting in too much or
      > uncontrolled amounts of finish being applied to the piece.....which
      > could cause drips etc.
      > Do you ever thin the finish with this method, prior to
      > application? Thanks for the GREAT idea!!! Mary
      > Thouin-Stubbs
      > > Mary --
      > > I have applied polyurethanes and varnishes for years on furniture
      > using a chunk of nylon hose and in the manner you would
      > apply tung oils. Using this application method, it usually requires
      > several coatings with a light steel wooling in between each coat
      > of polyurethane/varnish. This eliminates the sagging drips and
      > creates a soft hand-rubbed finish in appearance. It is a time
      > consuming process.
      > >
      > > Linda Hohneke
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2002 18:04:38 -0500
      > > From: Milena Hughes <milena@i...>
      > > Subject: Varnish on Marbled Wood
      > >
      > > Mary-
      > > (Yes, Jake I'm reading...)
      > > ....The biggest varnish problem will be sagging (drips) and small
      > particles of dust, etc.,
      > > falling on the coated piece before it is dry.... -Milena
      > _
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