7248RE: Re: [Marbling] freestyle questions
- Oct 28, 2013
Thanks for the responses!
I've tried Latex on water, with poor results. The colors were very washed out, despite using high quality paint and thinning with latex conditioner. I feel like I've tried everything, but just cannot replicate this look! Perhaps my tank is just too small (20x26) to encourage the rings of color to flow and compress properly.
If I were to thin the size (I work on Carrageenan), would I still be able to float the paints, while adding to the fluidity of the size? Should I try different pigments (currently using Goldens and Galen Berry's acrylics)? I've studied Pernille's videos and website closely, and I know she's working on thickened size, though it doesn't seem as thick as mine is. Just can't figure out what she's using for pigments! Tried to contact her, but no luck.And while I'm throwing out questions; it looks as though I'm going to need to travel to receive marbling instruction as there are no marblers in the Bay Area who teach. Please let me know if you teach courses, when and where. Thanks!
---In Marbling@yahoogroups.com, <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:I have seen this done with Latex house paints! Exactly. On plain water. I think you need to work fast as I recall because it starts to air dry. It works well on fabrics and wood. I tried it with someone once, long ago.
On 10/28/13, Sue Cole<akartisan@...> wrote:
I looked at the website you had and I would consider that more of a suminagashi method because the inks/paints are not moved once they are dropped in. If you will check in the archives, you will find several notes on Pernille's work. There's a youtube video also where she talks about her work. It looks like she makes the original designs, then somehow digitizes them on to the wood, since they are all the same in appearance.
To do the work that's in Write Robinson's work, you would need a very large tank on a stable surface.
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