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F-3 maintenance advice

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  • mlaughlinnyc
    I have several F-3 sets that I m rehabilitating before selling 2242 New Haven 2379 Rio Grande 2383 Santa Fe Today I disassembled all three sets, and I have a
    Message 1 of 15 , Jul 5 7:52 PM
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      I have several F-3 sets that I'm rehabilitating before selling

      2242 New Haven

      2379 Rio Grande

      2383 Santa Fe


      Today I disassembled all three sets, and I have a few questions about what to do with them.


      The horn of one of them makes a clicking noise but no horn sound.  Can this be repaired or should I buy a new horn ?


      I see that I can get a horn for $16.00.  Is it likely that being able to say that the horn works would add more than $16 to what I could get for it on Ebay ?


      On two of the powered units there are is a heavy green wire between one pair of brushes on the two motors.  Anyone know why ?


      The spur gear driven by the worm has plastic bearings.  I'm going to use brake fluid or Naptha tp clean th trucks.  Might those plastic bearings be damaged by either substance ?  I could just use mineral spirits or alcohol on them.


      Any other thoughts on likely problems in overhauling these unit ?


      Thanks for the help.


      Malcolm Laughlin

    • Bruce Sherman
      Concerning the horn issue, it sounds like it just needs a tune up. I am sure someone else will jump in here and tell you how to do it. I would think original
      Message 2 of 15 , Jul 5 8:06 PM
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        Concerning the horn issue, it sounds like it just needs a tune up.  I am sure someone else will jump in here and tell you how to do it.
         
        I would think original equipment would add to the value when it comes to sell.  I would mention and even show photos of the battery compartment, no issues.  I know if I am looking for one, that would be a concern as I am sure plenty had battery leaks.
         
         
        Bruce
         
        Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 10:52 PM
        Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] F-3 maintenance advice
         
         

        I have several F-3 sets that I'm rehabilitating before selling

        2242 New Haven

        2379 Rio Grande

        2383 Santa Fe


        Today I disassembled all three sets, and I have a few questions about what to do with them.


        The horn of one of them makes a clicking noise but no horn sound.  Can this be repaired or should I buy a new horn ?


        I see that I can get a horn for $16.00.  Is it likely that being able to say that the horn works would add more than $16 to what I could get for it on Ebay ?


        On two of the powered units there are is a heavy green wire between one pair of brushes on the two motors.  Anyone know why ?


        The spur gear driven by the worm has plastic bearings.  I'm going to use brake fluid or Naptha tp clean th trucks.  Might those plastic bearings be damaged by either substance ?  I could just use mineral spirits or alcohol on them.


        Any other thoughts on likely problems in overhauling these unit ?

         

        Thanks for the help.


        Malcolm Laughlin

      • Thomas McLean
        Sometimes horn can be revived by either a quick jolt with a nine volt battery or by playing with the adjustment screw on the back. Be aware that the screw is
        Message 3 of 15 , Jul 6 6:26 AM
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          Sometimes horn can be revived by either a quick jolt with a nine volt battery or by playing with the adjustment screw on the back. Be aware that the screw is sensitive to adjustment. Mark the original position before adjusting. Personally, I hate it if someone "repairs" a train for sale on e-bay. I wouldn't pay 16.00 more and would rather have the non working original horn. If the green wire is original, most likely it is the field connection to the motor. Lionel used blue and yellow for the brush hookup and green for the field wire. Naptha is fine to use and is a great degreaser. It won't hurt the plastic. Don't use brake fluid. Mineral spirits will work but it doesn't evaporate well and leaves a residue. Alcohol is ok but not as effective a degreaser as Naptha would be.  Naptha is the best choice for a degreaser.-TM
           
          Thomas M. McLean
           
           

          From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
          To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 10:52 PM
          Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] F-3 maintenance advice

           
          I have several F-3 sets that I'm rehabilitating before selling
          2242 New Haven
          2379 Rio Grande
          2383 Santa Fe

          Today I disassembled all three sets, and I have a few questions about what to do with them.

          The horn of one of them makes a clicking noise but no horn sound.  Can this be repaired or should I buy a new horn ?

          I see that I can get a horn for $16.00.  Is it likely that being able to say that the horn works would add more than $16 to what I could get for it on Ebay ?

          On two of the powered units there are is a heavy green wire between one pair of brushes on the two motors.  Anyone know why ?

          The spur gear driven by the worm has plastic bearings.  I'm going to use brake fluid or Naptha tp clean th trucks.  Might those plastic bearings be damaged by either substance ?  I could just use mineral spirits or alcohol on them.

          Any other thoughts on likely problems in overhauling these unit ?

          Thanks for the help.

          Malcolm Laughlin


        • strodude
          I agree with Thomas. I d rather purchase locomotives that have not been serviced by others. In most cases, unless the person working on them has a lot of
          Message 4 of 15 , Jul 6 7:23 AM
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            I agree with Thomas.  I'd rather purchase locomotives that have not been serviced by others.  In most cases, unless the person working on them has a lot of experience, they usually do more harm than good by breaking and/or damaging old plastic through incorrect cleaning techniques and by using the wrong solvents and lubes.  Also, It seems like most people don't understand how to solder correctly so all kinds of issues can occur from that.

            -Stro


            On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 7:26 AM, Thomas McLean tmackinator@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains] <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
             

            Sometimes horn can be revived by either a quick jolt with a nine volt battery or by playing with the adjustment screw on the back. Be aware that the screw is sensitive to adjustment. Mark the original position before adjusting. Personally, I hate it if someone "repairs" a train for sale on e-bay. I wouldn't pay 16.00 more and would rather have the non working original horn. If the green wire is original, most likely it is the field connection to the motor. Lionel used blue and yellow for the brush hookup and green for the field wire. Naptha is fine to use and is a great degreaser. It won't hurt the plastic. Don't use brake fluid. Mineral spirits will work but it doesn't evaporate well and leaves a residue. Alcohol is ok but not as effective a degreaser as Naptha would be.  Naptha is the best choice for a degreaser.-TM
             
            Thomas M. McLean
             
             

            From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
            To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 10:52 PM
            Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] F-3 maintenance advice

             
            I have several F-3 sets that I'm rehabilitating before selling
            2242 New Haven
            2379 Rio Grande
            2383 Santa Fe

            Today I disassembled all three sets, and I have a few questions about what to do with them.

            The horn of one of them makes a clicking noise but no horn sound.  Can this be repaired or should I buy a new horn ?

            I see that I can get a horn for $16.00.  Is it likely that being able to say that the horn works would add more than $16 to what I could get for it on Ebay ?

            On two of the powered units there are is a heavy green wire between one pair of brushes on the two motors.  Anyone know why ?

            The spur gear driven by the worm has plastic bearings.  I'm going to use brake fluid or Naptha tp clean th trucks.  Might those plastic bearings be damaged by either substance ?  I could just use mineral spirits or alcohol on them.

            Any other thoughts on likely problems in overhauling these unit ?

            Thanks for the help.

            Malcolm Laughlin



          • mlaughlinnyc
            I really want to thank the guy, whose name I ve misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner. At noon when I went to work, I had five power
            Message 5 of 15 , Jul 6 4:19 PM
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              I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

              At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures.  Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind.  After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

              So thanks for the advice.

              Looking forward to more input on horns.  If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

              Malcolm Laughlin
            • mlaughlinnyc
              Meant to say brake cleaner, not brake fluid. Thanks for that input Tom, didn t know why that scerw is on the horn - will try your suggestions. ML
              Message 6 of 15 , Jul 6 5:08 PM
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                Meant to say brake cleaner, not brake fluid.  Thanks for that input Tom, didn't know why that scerw is on the horn - will try your suggestions.

                ML
              • Thomas McLean
                 Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of
                Message 7 of 15 , Jul 7 4:09 AM
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                   Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM

                   
                  Thomas M. McLean
                   
                   

                  From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                  To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 7:19 PM
                  Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                   
                  I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                  At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures.  Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind.  After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                  So thanks for the advice.

                  Looking forward to more input on horns.  If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                  Malcolm Laughlin


                • Richard Walker
                  Does that include the e-unit? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
                  Message 8 of 15 , Jul 7 5:16 AM
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                    Does that include the e-unit?

                    Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad


                    From: Thomas McLean tmackinator@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains] <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>;
                    To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>;
                    Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today
                    Sent: Mon, Jul 7, 2014 11:09:16 AM

                     

                     Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM

                     
                    Thomas M. McLean
                     
                     

                    From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                    To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 7:19 PM
                    Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                     
                    I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                    At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures.  Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind.  After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                    So thanks for the advice.

                    Looking forward to more input on horns.  If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                    Malcolm Laughlin


                  • Thomas McLean
                    I ve never had to soak an e unit but naptha tends to be safe on electrical items. The only thing I dont soak in naptha are prewar cloth covered electrical
                    Message 9 of 15 , Jul 7 5:26 AM
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                      I've never had to soak an e unit but naptha tends to be safe on electrical items. The only thing I dont soak in naptha are prewar cloth covered electrical windings.
                      -TM
                       
                      Thomas M. McLean
                       
                       


                      From: "Richard Walker richew44@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                      To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>; "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 8:16 AM
                      Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                       
                      Does that include the e-unit?

                      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad




                      From: Thomas McLean tmackinator@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains] <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>;
                      To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>;
                      Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today
                      Sent: Mon, Jul 7, 2014 11:09:16 AM

                       
                       Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM

                       
                      Thomas M. McLean
                       
                       

                      From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                      To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 7:19 PM
                      Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                       
                      I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                      At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures.  Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind.  After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                      So thanks for the advice.

                      Looking forward to more input on horns.  If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                      Malcolm Laughlin




                    • Rick Duncan
                      You mentioned something about using black electrical tape to cure a sticking horn relay. Does this just add weight to the relay armature so that it drops more
                      Message 10 of 15 , Jul 7 8:21 AM
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                        You mentioned something about using black electrical tape to cure a sticking horn relay. Does this just add weight to the relay armature so that it drops more reliably?



                        Thanks,

                        Rick D



                        From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com]
                        Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 6:09 AM
                        To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today





                        Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM



                        VINTAGE LIONEL HORN REPAIR <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21>







                        <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> Image removed by sender. image












                        <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> VINTAGE LIONEL HORN REPAIR




                        <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> View on www.youtube.com

                        Preview by Yahoo










                        Thomas M. McLean





                        Image removed by sender.



                        From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                        To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 7:19 PM
                        Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today





                        I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                        At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures. Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind. After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                        So thanks for the advice.

                        Looking forward to more input on horns. If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                        Malcolm Laughlin







                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Thomas McLean
                        The armature plate can become slightly magnetic over time. What the tape does is prevent the magnetism from retaining the plate in the activated condition
                        Message 11 of 15 , Jul 7 8:27 AM
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                          The armature plate can become slightly magnetic over time. What the tape does is prevent the magnetism from retaining the plate in the activated condition while still allowing the stronger magnetic field of the coil to operate the relay as intended. A simple fix to an annoying problem!-TM
                           
                          Thomas M. McLean
                           
                           

                          From: "'Rick Duncan' trainman65@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                          To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 11:21 AM
                          Subject: RE: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                           
                          You mentioned something about using black electrical tape to cure a sticking horn relay. Does this just add weight to the relay armature so that it drops more reliably?

                          Thanks,

                          Rick D

                          From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 6:09 AM
                          To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                          Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM

                          VINTAGE LIONEL HORN REPAIR <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21>

                          <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> Image removed by sender. image

                          <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> VINTAGE LIONEL HORN REPAIR



                          <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LsDKsNBBKQ&feature=share&list=UUkgcN0dP3gjTlNeW6rb0MsA&index=21> View on www.youtube.com

                          Preview by Yahoo





                          Thomas M. McLean

                          Image removed by sender.

                          From: "mlaughlinnyc@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                          To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 7:19 PM
                          Subject: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                          I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                          At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures. Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind. After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                          So thanks for the advice.

                          Looking forward to more input on horns. If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                          Malcolm Laughlin

                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                        • Pete Serrino
                          I agree Brake Cleaner is a slippery slope. I use a product sold in automotive paint stores, Dupont 3919S Prep Sol. Sold by the gallon the cost is similar to
                          Message 12 of 15 , Jul 7 8:35 AM
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                            I agree Brake Cleaner is a slippery slope. I use a product sold in automotive paint stores, Dupont 3919S Prep Sol. Sold by the gallon the cost is similar to Naptha. The big advantage is it will not attack paint. In fact its used to clean paint prior to respraying. A gallon usually lasts me about ten years and I also use it for its intended purpose.

                            Pete
                             
                             Here is a link to a video I did on horn repair a few years ago. Also, while brake cleaner is a great degreaser, some types will attack certain types of plastics and armature/field winding coatings. Some types are safe some are not, just be aware. You can safely soak an entire post war motor in naptha.-TM

                             
                            Thomas M. McLean
                             
                             


                             
                            I really want to thank the guy, whose name I've misplaced, who suggested using brake cleaner brake cleaner.

                            At noon when I went to work, I had five power trucks with 50 year old grease, all not wanting to roll and five motors with very stiff armatures.  Fortunately there was a nice breeze so I could keep the work down wind.  After an hour of spraying brake cleaner and vigorous work with a stick and paper towels, I now have five freely rollong power truck and motors with armatures that give a nice spin.

                            So thanks for the advice.

                            Looking forward to more input on horns.  If they can be fixed, it looks like quite a challenge to get them open with that circle of taba.

                            Malcolm Laughlin




                          • rjdenes
                            The real solution depends upon the amount of tension on the small flat springs to which the lower contact plate is attached. Adding tape, or anything with
                            Message 13 of 15 , Jul 7 8:36 AM
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                              The real solution depends upon the amount of tension on the small flat springs to which the lower contact plate is attached.  Adding tape, or anything with wight, will facilitate the drop of the contact plate, but may impede the prompt raising of the plate toward the solenoid.  Also, remember that the unit is activated by DC, and, over a period of time, DC can partially magnetize the solenoid, causing sticking.
                               
                               
                              In a message dated 7/7/2014 11:21:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com writes:
                              Does this just add weight to the relay armature so that it drops more reliably?
                            • Thomas McLean
                              There is no spring, just a flat brass contact that completes the ground circuit through the moveable hinge portion of the armature plate.  This connection
                              Message 14 of 15 , Jul 7 9:00 AM
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                                There is no spring, just a flat brass contact that completes the ground circuit through the moveable hinge portion of the armature plate.  This connection completes the circuit from the lower contact button on the armature plate to ground. That is why I often add a very light wire to from the movable plate to the body of the relay to insure a good connection. The armature plate was meant to fall by gravity alone. The tape will not impede the activation of the solenoid. In fact I found  that  this is a solution that is in the Lionel factory service manual as a solution to a sticking relay although I believe they suggest scotch type tape. I know for a fact by experience that the tape does not impede the action of the relay.-TM
                                 
                                Thomas M. McLean
                                 
                                 

                                From: "jimpaterno@... [Lionel_PostwarTrains]" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 11:36 AM
                                Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] Re:] F-3 maintenance advice - update on work today

                                 
                                The real solution depends upon the amount of tension on the small flat springs to which the lower contact plate is attached.  Adding tape, or anything with wight, will facilitate the drop of the contact plate, but may impede the prompt raising of the plate toward the solenoid.  Also, remember that the unit is activated by DC, and, over a period of time, DC can partially magnetize the solenoid, causing sticking.
                                 
                                 
                                In a message dated 7/7/2014 11:21:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com writes:
                                Does this just add weight to the relay armature so that it drops more reliably?


                              • mlaughlinnyc
                                Thanks, I ll use naptha on armatures
                                Message 15 of 15 , Jul 8 9:02 AM
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                                  Thanks, I'll use naptha on armatures
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