Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

Expand Messages
  • drumwoulf
    Hi My MRR club uses Gargaves O gauge track and Ross switches on which I’m trying to run mostly prewar Lionel stuff, but with only mixed success? It’s a
    Message 1 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi
      My MRR club uses Gargaves O gauge track and Ross switches on which I’m trying to run mostly prewar Lionel stuff, but with only mixed success? It’s a long folded dog bone layout and my train runs inconsistently around it; sometimes it will run okay for 5 or 6 minutes, but then the cars will too often at times uncouple when crossing over the Ross switches at different points.

      What I’m running: The Lionel 2-6-4 version of the 2026 steamer with a tender with a box coupler hooked up to various prewar freight cars, also all with box couplers. -Some are the manual box coupler types, but all the other cars with the ‘automatic’ box couplers have also been converted to manual operation. The plastic contact sliders have all been removed from the trucks and the wheels placed back on the cars in a manual style. The cars with the metal sliders underneath their trucks have all had the slider tabs bent down flatter. When all these cars, both the manual coupler ones and the converted ones, are hand pushed slowly over the Ross switches they do not make any contact with any rails underneath and they do not uncouple. It is only after running around this large layout for a few minutes that uncoupling occurs....!

      I’m wondering if the jostling vibrations these cars’ get after running around the layout for a few minutes are causing the box couplers to gradually ‘flip up’ their boxes over the Ross switches and disconnect?  Also wondering if some of the manual style couplers after running for a while could somehow have their lower front tabs that hang down under the box also jostle lower and hit something on the switches rails, causing a disconnect?

      Has anyone had these problems and can offer some suggestions and/or a solution? One thing I did notice is that when I run older Lionel cars with the older latch couplers (which I don’t like as much), they usually stay hooked together better and rarely disconnect on the layout. So I’m also wondering if running Lionel cars with box couplers and latch couplers connected together in alternate sequences would then work better?

      So please, any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated?  {I have been able to run my tab/slot connected Marx trains (but only with the DR engines) on this layout okay, but would really like to get the prewar Lionel going okay too if possible...}

      Thanks,
      Skip
    • BYRON ALLEN
      Hi Skip,      I run early postwar & late prewar trains on GarGraves track & switches.  Nearly all of my cars use sliding shoe coil couplers. (I don t know
      Message 2 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
      • 0 Attachment
        Hi Skip, 
            I run early postwar & late prewar trains on GarGraves track & switches.  Nearly all of my cars use sliding shoe coil couplers. (I don't know why I keep beating myself up with these.)  I've found that any time there is contact across the coil, no matter how, the cars uncouple. 
            As long as the coil & armature are on the truck, a random contact between the wheels & the coil mount will uncouple the cars.  Virtually all sliding shoes are connected to the coil hot wire by flat copper springs, which, when the shoe is removed, touch the coil mounting plate.  As long as nothing touches the hot rail, everything is fine.  But when the the truck frame touches the hot rail, even though there is a direct short, the coil still actuates & the cars uncouple.    It is probably easiest to remove the armature from the coil to fix it.

        Byron.


        On Saturday, February 8, 2014 6:46 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
         
        Hi
        My MRR club uses Gargaves O gauge track and Ross switches on which I’m trying to run mostly prewar Lionel stuff, but with only mixed success? It’s a long folded dog bone layout and my train runs inconsistently around it; sometimes it will run okay for 5 or 6 minutes, but then the cars will too often at times uncouple when crossing over the Ross switches at different points.

        What I’m running: The Lionel 2-6-4 version of the 2026 steamer with a tender with a box coupler hooked up to various prewar freight cars, also all with box couplers. -Some are the manual box coupler types, but all the other cars with the ‘automatic’ box couplers have also been converted to manual operation. The plastic contact sliders have all been removed from the trucks and the wheels placed back on the cars in a manual style. The cars with the metal sliders underneath their trucks have all had the slider tabs bent down flatter. When all these cars, both the manual coupler ones and the converted ones, are hand pushed slowly over the Ross switches they do not make any contact with any rails underneath and they do not uncouple. It is only after running around this large layout for a few minutes that uncoupling occurs....!

        I’m wondering if the jostling vibrations these cars’ get after running around the layout for a few minutes are causing the box couplers to gradually ‘flip up’ their boxes over the Ross switches and disconnect?  Also wondering if some of the manual style couplers after running for a while could somehow have their lower front tabs that hang down under the box also jostle lower and hit something on the switches rails, causing a disconnect?

        Has anyone had these problems and can offer some suggestions and/or a solution? One thing I did notice is that when I run older Lionel cars with the older latch couplers (which I don’t like as much), they usually stay hooked together better and rarely disconnect on the layout. So I’m also wondering if running Lionel cars with box couplers and latch couplers connected together in alternate sequences would then work better?

        So please, any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated?  {I have been able to run my tab/slot connected Marx trains (but only with the DR engines) on this layout okay, but would really like to get the prewar Lionel going okay too if possible...}

        Thanks,
        Skip


      • drumwoulf
        Thanks Byron, but I still don t quite understand? Are you saying that even tho I removed all the sliding shoes from under the trucks there s possibly still
        Message 3 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
        • 0 Attachment
          Thanks Byron, but I still don't quite understand?
          Are you saying that even tho I removed all the sliding shoes from under the trucks there's possibly still something from the truck (or wheels?) touching the hot middle rail, thereby shorting out thru the car's bottom and making the couplers open?  I don't see how that could happen, unless the Ross switches have an odd type of raised hot rail somewhere? Also it would seem to me that a short like that could also make the train stop running, no?

          Still puzzled,
          Skip
        • drumwoulf
          I dunno, but it s looking more and more to me like it might be some jiggling and bouncing vibrations the prewar trucks experience going over the Ross switches
          Message 4 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
          • 0 Attachment
            I dunno, but it's looking more and more to me like it might be some jiggling and bouncing vibrations the prewar trucks experience going over the Ross switches that's making the couplers eventually open?
            I mean, these box couplers are only connected to each other by that small spear hooking up into a small lip under the top of the other coupler's box, right? And it looks like it doesn't much to make those upper box covers bump upward to let the spears slide out, and this probably even more so if their upper inside lips are somewhat worn down from constant use?

            I thought maybe a rubber band holding the box cover down might help, but upon trying this I couldn't find anything to secure the rubber band to that might do it... (Rats!)

            Next time at the club I think I will try my idea of alternating box couplers with latch couplers and see if that improves things any?

            Thanks,
            Skip  ;>})
          • BYRON ALLEN
            You re correct in what you say, Skip.  the momentary connection will usually, but not always stop, the engine.        What I meant by loose truck mounting
            Message 5 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
            • 0 Attachment
              You're correct in what you say, Skip.  the momentary connection will usually, but not always stop, the engine.  
                   What I meant by loose truck mounting is that the truck may have so much play that it allows the low hanging blade to touch the track.  I have installed a thin washer between the 'C' clip & the cars frame to remove some looseness on the worst cases..  The circuit is through the coupler mounting plate then to the coil & to the wheels.  It can go in reverse through the wheels to the coil & to a ground through the mounting plate if the wheels are what touch the hot rail.  This is true of my postwar coil couplers also.  ( just to keep this conversation close to postwar topic)
                    That said, I don't have the greatest track laying.  All of my track & switches are used & the layout is on a wobbly folding ping pong table.  I have done my best to make the track level, but the track is shimmed with wooden cribbing.  My couplers often simply ride over one another to come loose.  (slow order all the way). 
              You didn't say whether you use 0-gauge or 0-27 rolling stock.  Lionel made slightly different spears for 0-gauge freight & passenger box couplers.  I have found that they don't mate very well.
                   Have you tried a wrap of black electrical tape around the boxes?
                   Why not subscribe to the Prewar group?  someone there may have the answers.
              Byron


              On Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:57 PM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
               
              Thanks Byron, but I still don't quite understand?
              Are you saying that even tho I removed all the sliding shoes from under the trucks there's possibly still something from the truck (or wheels?) touching the hot middle rail, thereby shorting out thru the car's bottom and making the couplers open?  I don't see how that could happen, unless the Ross switches have an odd type of raised hot rail somewhere? Also it would seem to me that a short like that could also make the train stop running, no?

              Still puzzled,
              Skip


            • drumwoulf
              Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that s a good idea I hadn t thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh
              Message 6 of 23 , Feb 8, 2014
              • 0 Attachment
                Hi Bryon

                A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks!

                Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027...

                I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>})
                However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no?

                Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems!

                For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL!

                Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here,
                Skip
              • Thomas Kincheloe
                Skip, I had a similar problem with my old early post-war Lionel O-g many years ago. I ran the train for a long time with no problems and then they started
                Message 7 of 23 , Feb 9, 2014
                • 0 Attachment

                  Skip,

                  I had a similar problem with my old early post-war Lionel O-g many years ago. I ran the train for a long time with no problems and then they started decoupling by themselves after running for awhile. Gradually the run time between decoupling became less and less. My set was a used set and I received it in a box with everything just piled in. Some of the tracks were slightly bent from improper handling and/or storing. There were enough tracks to run my set in three different configurations: circular, oval and over-and-under figure 8. I had no switch tracks or cross tracks with the set. It did come with a decoupling track.

                  I discovered that the problem was some bent rails that did not lay flat on the surface causing the cars to sway and jerk side-to-side. Some of the pins that connect tracks together were also bent causing bumps at some of the connections. I observed the couplings closely each time the train passed those points and could see one of the couplings (usually the trailing coupling) working up out of the lead coupling until it reached a point that it would slip out altogether when it hit a bump in the track. I did everything I could think of to fix the couplings themselves but to no avail. So then I set to work straightening out the bent rails and rail connector pins to eliminate the excessive swaying and bumps and this helped tremendously. I came to the conclusion that wear and tear and possibly dirt and grime was causing the surfaces of the couplings to become rougher and thus friction and the twisting motion of the coupling, combined with the constant pull from the rolling stock while running continuously, was causing the trail couplings to "walk" up out of the lead coupling whenever the cars swayed side to side. I also remember cleaning the couplings thoroughly to remove any dirt and grim from the surfaces so that there would be less friction and that also helped.

                  The couplings are not heavy enough for gravity to keep the trail couplings from working out of one another and so friction caused by the twisting motion can cause the decoupling. This may be what's happening in your case. I have some doubts that electronic connections have anything to do with it because if that were the case you would be seeing decoupling occuring each time you went around the track at the same spot, not 5 or 6 minutes later. I'm not saying it CAN'T happen as I didn't have any switch tracks but it's my best opinion that isn't the case.

                  While running your train at slow speed, get down to eye level with the couplings. Observe the couplings to see if one is riding higher than the other (e.g. the coupling on the car being pulled is higher than the one pulling it). Next, look down over the cars as they are running and watch for excessive side-to-side swaying or jerking to the side, not only at the switches but the entire track. Then watch the couplings at eye level again at those specific points where there is sway occurring. You should be able to see one of the coupling slip upward slightly and increase each time it passes those points. This may be occurring at the switches but might also be occurring elsewhere on the track so check the entire layout. Bumps in the switches and at track junctions may be jarring the coupling enough to cause the final decoupling. Another way to check, too, is run the train for 3-4 minutes, stop the train, reverse (manually or electrically) just briefly enough to push against all the cars, then continue running it forward again for a few minutes. If the decoupling is being caused by friction, stopping the train and reversing it will allow the coupling to fall back in place where it belongs and stay connected for another 4-5 minutes. I had to do that frequently with my old Lionel to keep the cars from decoupling before repairs to the bent tracks and cleaning the couplings solved the problem.

                  Grime and dirt can build up on the coupling surfaces over time causing additional friction so you might want to soak the couplings in some warm water with Dawn dish-washing detergent and then gently scrub them with a soft toothbrush or other tool to remove the loosened dirt and grime. Try to avoid handling the couplings too often without washing your hands first as the fingers can deposit oil from your skin.

                  Again, this is just what worked for me with my old Lionel set and maybe it'll help you with yours. Good luck with this.

                  Tom - Myrtle Beach



                   


                  On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
                   
                  Hi Bryon

                  A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks!

                  Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027...

                  I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>})
                  However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no?

                  Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems!

                  For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL!

                  Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here,
                  Skip


                • Thomas Kincheloe
                   Skip, You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling
                  Message 8 of 23 , Feb 9, 2014
                  • 0 Attachment

                     Skip,

                    You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                    Tom - Myrtle Beach

                     
                     


                    On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
                     
                    Hi Bryon

                    A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks!

                    Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027...

                    I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>})
                    However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no?

                    Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems!

                    For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL!

                    Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here,
                    Skip


                  • Ambika Parks
                    I ve had this problem with the postwar madison style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around
                    Message 9 of 23 , Feb 9, 2014
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times.  I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically.  Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.   
                       
                      Andy

                      From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                      To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                      Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                      Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?
                       

                       Skip,

                      You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                      Tom - Myrtle Beach

                       
                       
                      On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
                       
                      Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip
                    • BYRON ALLEN
                      Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven t gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group.  Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!. Speaking of Latch
                      Message 10 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group.  Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.
                        Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on.  The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers.  the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3).  Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did.  The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.


                        Byron


                        On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:
                         
                        I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times.  I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically.  Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.   
                         
                        Andy

                        From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                        To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                        Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                        Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?
                         

                         Skip,

                        You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                        Tom - Myrtle Beach

                         
                         
                        On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
                         
                        Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip


                      • tmackinator
                        The little spear that hooks onto the coupler hood as well as the coupler hood itself wear over time. You can take a small jewlers type file and crisp up the
                        Message 11 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                        • 0 Attachment
                          The little "spear" that hooks onto the coupler hood as well as the coupler hood itself wear over time. You can take a small jewlers type file and crisp up the spear. Angle back the hook part of the spear so it wants to grab the coupler hood instead of riding over the ridge. Sharpen up all the radiused corners and file the top  edge of the coupler shank as to effectively increase the height of the hook part of the spear. Then inspect the hood itself to be sure the ridge that the hook grabs is nice and defined and not all rounded over. Sometimes replacement parts are not the best stampings and castings so be aware of that. I have corrected all my uncoupling issues by attention to these details-TM
                        • Rick Duncan
                          Neither link seems to work. Rick D From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN Sent:
                          Message 12 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                          • 0 Attachment
                            Neither link seems to work.



                            Rick D



                            From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                            Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                            To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?





                            Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                            Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                            http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>



                            http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/



                            Byron



                            On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:



                            I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.



                            Andy



                            From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                            To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                            Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?





                            Skip,

                            You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                            Tom - Myrtle Beach





                            On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:



                            Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip







                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • BYRON ALLEN
                            Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn t work.   let s try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble,
                            Message 13 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn't work.   let's try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble, mumble
                              or the Irvington set.
                              If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line.  They worked that way for me.
                              Byron


                              On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:
                               
                              Neither link seems to work.

                              Rick D

                              From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                              Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                              To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                              Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                              Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                              http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                              http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                              Byron

                              On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                              I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                              Andy

                              From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                              To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                              Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                              Skip,

                              You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                              Tom - Myrtle Beach

                              On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                              Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                            • Tony
                              Hi Byron, I get the dreaded 404 when I click on the links - ... From: BYRON ALLEN Date: 2/10/2014 8:31:48 PM To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com Subject:
                              Message 14 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Hi Byron,
                                I get the dreaded 404 when I click on the links -
                                 
                                 
                                 
                                -------Original Message-------
                                 
                                Date: 2/10/2014 8:31:48 PM
                                Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?
                                 
                                 

                                Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn't work.   let's try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble, mumble
                                or the Irvington set.
                                If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line.  They worked that way for me.
                                Byron


                                On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:
                                 
                                Neither link seems to work.

                                Rick D

                                From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                                Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                                To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                                Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                                http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                                http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                                Byron

                                On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                                I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                                Andy

                                From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                                To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                                Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                Skip,

                                You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                                Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                                Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                                 
                              • Rick Duncan
                                Likewise. From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 7:37 PM
                                Message 15 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Likewise.



                                  From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony
                                  Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 7:37 PM
                                  To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?






                                  Hi Byron,

                                  I get the dreaded 404 when I click on the links -







                                  -------Original Message-------



                                  From: BYRON ALLEN <mailto:blithe.spirits@...>

                                  Date: 2/10/2014 8:31:48 PM

                                  To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com

                                  Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?





                                  Hi Rick D. You are right, They didn't work. let's try the links again.again My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone. should have worked mumble, mumble

                                  or the Irvington set.

                                  <http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/> http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ for the 890WX set

                                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/ for the 253's & 613 cars

                                  If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line. They worked that way for me.

                                  Byron



                                  On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:



                                  Neither link seems to work.

                                  Rick D

                                  From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                                  Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                                  To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                  Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                                  Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                                  http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                                  Byron

                                  On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                                  I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                                  Andy

                                  From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                                  To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                  Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                                  Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                  Skip,

                                  You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                                  Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                  On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                                  Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]












                                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                • email
                                  I am being told that your page is private. Alan
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Feb 10, 2014
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    I am being told that your page is private.

                                    Alan

                                    On Feb 10, 2014, at 8:31 PM, BYRON ALLEN <blithe.spirits@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn't work.   let's try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble, mumble
                                    or the Irvington set.
                                    If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line.  They worked that way for me.
                                    Byron


                                    On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:
                                     
                                    Neither link seems to work.

                                    Rick D

                                    From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                                    Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                                    To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                    Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                                    Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                                    http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                                    http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                                    Byron

                                    On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                                    I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                                    Andy

                                    From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                                    To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                    Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                                    Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                    Skip,

                                    You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                                    Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                    On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                                    Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                                    [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                                  • BYRON ALLEN
                                    I apologize to everyone, the links worked when I first sent the e-mail.  Now they don t.  My account security privacy setting for photostream viewing is
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Feb 11, 2014
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      I apologize to everyone, the links worked when I first sent the e-mail.  Now they don't.  My account security\privacy setting for photostream viewing is "anyone"   & I tried pasting the link into my browser URL line & got '404' also

                                      I put the two videos in a set.  here's that link  It appears to work


                                      Byron     




                                      On Monday, February 10, 2014 9:21 PM, email <emailaskfl7@...> wrote:
                                       
                                      I am being told that your page is private.

                                      Alan

                                      On Feb 10, 2014, at 8:31 PM, BYRON ALLEN <blithe.spirits@...> wrote:

                                       
                                      Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn't work.   let's try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble, mumble
                                      or the Irvington set.
                                      If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line.  They worked that way for me.
                                      Byron


                                      On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:
                                       
                                      Neither link seems to work.

                                      Rick D

                                      From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                                      Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                                      To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                      Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                      Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                                      Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                                      http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                                      http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                                      Byron

                                      On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                                      I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                                      Andy

                                      From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                                      To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                                      Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                      Skip,

                                      You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                                      Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                      On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                                      Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                                    • email
                                      Flickr opens but I still get the message that I lack permission. Alan
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Feb 11, 2014
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Flickr opens but I still get the message that I lack permission.

                                        Alan

                                        On Feb 11, 2014, at 6:28 AM, BYRON ALLEN <blithe.spirits@...> wrote:

                                         

                                        I apologize to everyone, the links worked when I first sent the e-mail.  Now they don't.  My account security\privacy setting for photostream viewing is "anyone"   & I tried pasting the link into my browser URL line & got '404' also

                                        I put the two videos in a set.  here's that link  It appears to work


                                        Byron     




                                        On Monday, February 10, 2014 9:21 PM, email <emailaskfl7@...> wrote:
                                         
                                        I am being told that your page is private.

                                        Alan

                                        On Feb 10, 2014, at 8:31 PM, BYRON ALLEN <blithe.spirits@...> wrote:

                                         
                                        Hi Rick D.  You are right, They didn't work.   let's try the links again.again   My Flickr Photostream is open to anyone.  should have worked mumble, mumble
                                        or the Irvington set.
                                        If the links still don't work, copy & paste them into your browser URL line.  They worked that way for me.
                                        Byron


                                        On Monday, February 10, 2014 11:37 AM, Rick Duncan <trainman65@...> wrote:
                                         
                                        Neither link seems to work.

                                        Rick D

                                        From: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of BYRON ALLEN
                                        Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:59 AM
                                        To: Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com
                                        Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                        Good running, Skip. That must explain why I haven't gotten any response to my e-mail to join the group. Hey, at 71 years young, I qualify!.

                                        Speaking of Latch couplers, here's a link to a movie I made of my running my 2 restored 253 locos doubleheaded with all of the 0-gauge cars I have coupled on. The three 2600 series cars have box couplers, while the 613 series cars have latch couplers. the second link is to a run I made with my set 890WX 226/2225/2623(3). Why I ran that set so fast over uneven track, I'll never guess. This set is also a restoration I did. The loco & tender are original, the cars restored from fire damaged set.

                                        http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/ <http://http/www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962345944/>

                                        http://www.flickr.com/photos/54020227@N07/8962531012/

                                        Byron

                                        On Sunday, February 9, 2014 11:16 PM, Ambika Parks <m1raje@...> wrote:

                                        I've had this problem with the postwar "madison" style passenger cars where the couplers would slide up and down and come uncoupled as the train went around the track a few times. I find that the switches actually help because the 'runbling' over the switches kind of center them again vertically. Now I've got a switch on each of the straightaways and haven't had any problems.

                                        Andy

                                        From: Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...>
                                        To: "Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com" <Lionel_PostwarTrains@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Sent: Sunday, February 9, 2014 3:21 PM
                                        Subject: Re: [Lionel_PostwarTrains] RE: Need some advice re prewar Lionel on mod layout?

                                        Skip,

                                        You might want to try one more experiment. The more rolling stock your engine is pulling, the greater the friction between coupling points. Try pulling just one or two cars and see if the set can run longer without decoupling. If decoupling occurs more often as you add more rolling stock, then I think it's definitely a friction issue with the couplers. On the other hand, the more friction you have from added rolling stock, the better the couplers might hold. Either way it might give you a better clue to the problem. Just a thought.

                                        Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                        On Sunday, February 9, 2014 12:03 AM, "drumwoulf@..." <drumwoulf@...> wrote:

                                        Hi Bryon A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of. Probably tape around only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks! Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027... I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>}) However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?) So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no? Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together! Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems! For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?) It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together! LOL! Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here, Skip

                                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                                      • blackcatd9
                                        The above 2 Video Set Link still takes one back to the Yahoo Login Page. Can not access the Link as you have it listed in Message #15577. All for now. bcd9
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Feb 11, 2014
                                        • 0 Attachment

                                          The above "2 Video Set Link" still takes one back to the Yahoo Login Page.

                                          Can not access the Link as you have it listed in Message #15577. 

                                          All for now.  bcd9  ∑:=)


                                        • Thomas Kincheloe
                                          Byron, Still coming up with This Page Is Private in Flikr.  Can I make a suggestion? (For everyone). Use Dropbox . You can upload photos, videos and
                                          Message 20 of 23 , Feb 11, 2014
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            Byron,

                                            Still coming up with "This Page Is Private" in Flikr. 

                                            Can I make a suggestion? (For everyone). Use "Dropbox". You can upload photos, videos and documents. I use it and never have any problems with sharing photos and videos. You can even download files from another person's Dropbox (with owner permission).

                                            Not wanting to add more unwanted clutter to my computer, I was hesitant to add any more software but some "experts" told me Dropbox is the best for file-sharing with other computer users. And it's a free download.

                                            www.dropbox.com

                                            JMOO

                                            Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                             
                                             


                                            On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:26 AM, "blackcatd9@..." <blackcatd9@...> wrote:
                                             
                                            The above "2 Video Set Link" still takes one back to the Yahoo Login Page.
                                            Can not access the Link as you have it listed in Message #15577. 
                                            All for now.  bcd9  ∑:=)



                                          • email
                                            Agreed Alan ... Agreed Alan On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:02 AM, Thomas Kincheloe wrote: Byron, Still coming up with This Page Is Private in
                                            Message 21 of 23 , Feb 11, 2014
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              Agreed

                                              Alan

                                              On Feb 11, 2014, at 9:02 AM, Thomas Kincheloe <luvmaponds@...> wrote:

                                               

                                              Byron,

                                              Still coming up with "This Page Is Private" in Flikr. 

                                              Can I make a suggestion? (For everyone). Use "Dropbox". You can upload photos, videos and documents. I use it and never have any problems with sharing photos and videos. You can even download files from another person's Dropbox (with owner permission).

                                              Not wanting to add more unwanted clutter to my computer, I was hesitant to add any more software but some "experts" told me Dropbox is the best for file-sharing with other computer users. And it's a free download.


                                              JMOO

                                              Tom - Myrtle Beach

                                               
                                               


                                              On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:26 AM, "blackcatd9@..." <blackcatd9@...> wrote:
                                               
                                              The above "2 Video Set Link" still takes one back to the Yahoo Login Page.
                                              Can not access the Link as you have it listed in Message #15577. 
                                              All for now.  bcd9  ∑:=)



                                            • Jack Schrader
                                              Better yet, a small dot of clear silicone underneath the box will rid you of that tape mess. Then, if ever to be opened again, just a small pull will do it
                                              Message 22 of 23 , Feb 12, 2014
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                Better yet, a small dot of clear silicone underneath the box will rid you of that tape mess.  Then, if ever to be opened again, just a small pull will do it without all of that sticky tape mess.

                                                Just a thought from a person who, as a kid, did everything with bubble gum and bailing wire.  :-)

                                                Jack


                                                On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 9:03 PM, <drumwoulf@...> wrote:
                                                 

                                                Hi Bryon

                                                A black tape wrapped around the boxes, now that's a good idea I hadn't thought of.  Probably tape around  only one of the two boxes in a connection sh keep them together pretty good, and still allow me to uncouple them by hand fairly easy.. Thanks!

                                                Also upon further investigation I discovered some of my cars' box couplers were out of height alignment and I spent a few hours getting all of them to connect nice and easy on a level basis, so we'll see if that helps next time at my club's O gauge layout. -And I believe all the older stuff I'm running is 027...

                                                I did ask these same questions on the prewarOgauge list, but I guess they're all fast asleep over there as there's been no notice or response at all? -Us geezers with our old trains do like to sleep a lot, y'know? ;>})
                                                However I do think the box and latch coupler questions may be pertinent here also as Lionel and MTH have been making lots of expensive modern repos of classic trains that use those kind of couplers... (Along with updated new electronics? -Go figure, right?)  So anyone buying the new "old" Lionel stuff might like to read about what they're getting into with that gear, no?

                                                Anyway I think I'm gonna sell all of my latch coupler cars... The box couplers, they  connect up with just a push as easy as modern knucklers do, but those latch things are (IMO) a real pain inna butt to hook up together!  Hopefully the modern repos they're making with latch couplers will  operate much, much better being that they're new, because with the fumbling difficulties I've been having getting mine coupled together, I sure wouldn't want to pay big $$ for repos and have those same kinds of problems!

                                                For my money the tab/slot couplers are still the best ones on the old trains, but they don't appear to be repo-ing them at all. (Yet?)  It's true you cannot push them together to couple automatically, but at least once they're hooked together they STAY hooked together!  LOL!

                                                Anyway, thanks for your assistance and responses here,
                                                Skip


                                              • tmackinator
                                                Skip, I d like to address a comment you made in this message. I am the moderator of this group and the owner of the pre war group. I not sure what you expect
                                                Message 23 of 23 , Feb 12, 2014
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  Skip, I'd like to address a comment you made in this message. I am the moderator of this group and the owner of the pre war group. I not sure what you expect from the groups but you had a response on Jan 4 to your query on the prewar group. You have had multiple responses including one from me on this forum. Both Bruce and myself put a lot of time and effort into these groups and they are among the best groups on Yahoo. To say that we must be fast asleep on the prewar group is insulting to me personally. The members are not required to respond, its not mandatory. I know for a fact that your posts get a lot of attention. You may need to choose wording more carefully.-TM
                                                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.