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Re: [LinkStation_General] Restart on Power Failure?!

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  • KeepIt SimpleStupid
    ... Your correct with the part number that you selected. So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have something that works and keeps the functionality of
    Message 1 of 14 , Jan 7, 2006
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      --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:

      > On Saturday 07 January 2006 00:11, KeepIt
      > SimpleStupid wrote:
      > > Try this on for size:
      > >
      > > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side.
      > Label
      > > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side
      > point
      > > (b).
      > >
      > > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together
      > and
      > > connect to point (b).
      > >
      > > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point
      > (a).
      > >
      > > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and
      > the
      > > negative of the cap to ground.
      > >
      > > In this case the diodes create isolation and there
      > is
      > > no issue of a cap across the switch.
      > >
      > > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch,
      > then
      > > go to plan (b).
      > >
      > > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
      > > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
      > > doesn't matter.
      > >
      > > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or
      > even
      > > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage.
      > Connect
      > > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
      > > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 *
      > R *
      > > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms,
      > and C
      > > is in Farads.
      > >
      > Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think
      > there's a slight
      > miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is
      > about as
      > simple as it gets and has a reasonable reset time (3
      > seconds).
      > My only question was if anyone sees any problems
      > with that
      > design.
      >
      > If you look at the picture I included in the wiki
      > article you
      > will see that your plan A is not going to work
      > because
      > unsoldering the switch cannot be done without a big
      > risk of
      > damaging the LS.
      >
      > Your plan B doesn't sound simpler than my proposal
      > and I don't
      > see how it could work. The part number you mentioned
      > is a 16
      > pin SMD 4-port opto-isolator and you seem to be
      > using pins from
      > different ports. I assume you meant something like
      > p/n H11F1-ND
      > or similar, but then the circuit is still more
      > complicated than
      > mine and I don't see any advantages.
      >
      > So unless you can point me to any dangers for the LS
      > using my
      > setup, I'm going to go with that.

      Your correct with the part number that you selected.
      So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have
      something that works and keeps the functionality of
      the button.

      Many years ago, like 20, I used this technique to turn
      off an audio processor when the AMP turned off. I
      also had the ability to turn the audio system on via
      the processors remote, Still works.
      Weird switches (Dedicated off)
      ON (one push -20 db, 2nd push 0 db)
      Since the circuitry was external, isolation was
      important,

      Thanks for catching the errors.

      KISS
      >
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Schelte.
      >




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