Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [LinkStation_General] Restart on Power Failure?!

Expand Messages
  • KeepIt SimpleStupid
    I was a little hasty before I replied. There is a problem with both designs. The reset time would be really bad because the charge on the capacitor would not
    Message 1 of 14 , Jan 6, 2006
    • 0 Attachment
      I was a little hasty before I replied. There is a
      problem with both designs. The reset time would be
      really bad because the charge on the capacitor would
      not drain. I'd suggest a starting value of a parallel
      resistor of ten times the value of R used.

      KISS

      --- KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...>
      wrote:

      >
      >
      > --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:
      >
      > > On Friday 06 January 2006 05:48, KeepIt
      > SimpleStupid
      > > wrote:
      > > > Not knowing exactly what the LS has you can try
      > > > something like wire oring.
      > > >
      > > The ascii picture is a bit hard to make out, but
      > > that looks
      > > exactly like the setup I used and described on the
      > > wiki. With
      > > my more complicated proposal I'm trying to address
      > > the concerns
      > > some people raised about that first setup.
      > >
      > > > Add your resistor if you care. I'm assuming
      > that
      > > the
      > > > LS uses a contact closure to ground, but it
      > > doesn't
      > > > have to be.
      > > >
      > > > What chip/pin is the power switch going to. Is
      > it
      > > > connected to anything else like a pull up or
      > pull
      > > down
      > > > resistor?
      > > >
      > > The LS indeed uses a contact closure to ground. I
      > > haven't been
      > > able to determine where the signal is going to. I
      > > lost track of
      > > the circuit board trace when it disappeared under
      > > the IDE
      > > connector. From my measurements it appears like
      > the
      > > signal is
      > > pulled up with a resistance of around 7K.
      > >
      > >
      > > Schelte.
      >
      >
      > Try this on for size:
      >
      > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side.
      > Label
      > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side
      > point
      > (b).
      >
      > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together and
      > connect to point (b).
      >
      > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point
      > (a).
      >
      > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and the
      > negative of the cap to ground.
      >
      > In this case the diodes create isolation and there
      > is
      > no issue of a cap across the switch.
      >
      > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch, then
      > go to plan (b).
      >
      > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
      > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
      > doesn't matter.
      >
      > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or even
      > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage. Connect
      > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
      > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 * R
      > *
      > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms, and
      > C
      > is in Farads.
      >
      > KISS
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > __________________________________________
      > Yahoo! DSL � Something to write home about.
      > Just $16.99/mo. or less.
      > dsl.yahoo.com
      >
      >




      __________________________________________
      Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
      Just $16.99/mo. or less.
      dsl.yahoo.com
    • Schelte Bron
      ... Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think there s a slight miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is about as simple as it gets and has a
      Message 2 of 14 , Jan 7, 2006
      • 0 Attachment
        On Saturday 07 January 2006 00:11, KeepIt SimpleStupid wrote:
        > Try this on for size:
        >
        > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side. Label
        > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side point
        > (b).
        >
        > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together and
        > connect to point (b).
        >
        > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point (a).
        >
        > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and the
        > negative of the cap to ground.
        >
        > In this case the diodes create isolation and there is
        > no issue of a cap across the switch.
        >
        > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch, then
        > go to plan (b).
        >
        > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
        > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
        > doesn't matter.
        >
        > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or even
        > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage. Connect
        > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
        > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 * R *
        > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms, and C
        > is in Farads.
        >
        Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think there's a slight
        miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is about as
        simple as it gets and has a reasonable reset time (3 seconds).
        My only question was if anyone sees any problems with that
        design.

        If you look at the picture I included in the wiki article you
        will see that your plan A is not going to work because
        unsoldering the switch cannot be done without a big risk of
        damaging the LS.

        Your plan B doesn't sound simpler than my proposal and I don't
        see how it could work. The part number you mentioned is a 16
        pin SMD 4-port opto-isolator and you seem to be using pins from
        different ports. I assume you meant something like p/n H11F1-ND
        or similar, but then the circuit is still more complicated than
        mine and I don't see any advantages.

        So unless you can point me to any dangers for the LS using my
        setup, I'm going to go with that.


        Thanks,
        Schelte.
      • KeepIt SimpleStupid
        ... Your correct with the part number that you selected. So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have something that works and keeps the functionality of
        Message 3 of 14 , Jan 7, 2006
        • 0 Attachment
          --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:

          > On Saturday 07 January 2006 00:11, KeepIt
          > SimpleStupid wrote:
          > > Try this on for size:
          > >
          > > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side.
          > Label
          > > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side
          > point
          > > (b).
          > >
          > > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together
          > and
          > > connect to point (b).
          > >
          > > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point
          > (a).
          > >
          > > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and
          > the
          > > negative of the cap to ground.
          > >
          > > In this case the diodes create isolation and there
          > is
          > > no issue of a cap across the switch.
          > >
          > > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch,
          > then
          > > go to plan (b).
          > >
          > > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
          > > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
          > > doesn't matter.
          > >
          > > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or
          > even
          > > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage.
          > Connect
          > > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
          > > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 *
          > R *
          > > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms,
          > and C
          > > is in Farads.
          > >
          > Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think
          > there's a slight
          > miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is
          > about as
          > simple as it gets and has a reasonable reset time (3
          > seconds).
          > My only question was if anyone sees any problems
          > with that
          > design.
          >
          > If you look at the picture I included in the wiki
          > article you
          > will see that your plan A is not going to work
          > because
          > unsoldering the switch cannot be done without a big
          > risk of
          > damaging the LS.
          >
          > Your plan B doesn't sound simpler than my proposal
          > and I don't
          > see how it could work. The part number you mentioned
          > is a 16
          > pin SMD 4-port opto-isolator and you seem to be
          > using pins from
          > different ports. I assume you meant something like
          > p/n H11F1-ND
          > or similar, but then the circuit is still more
          > complicated than
          > mine and I don't see any advantages.
          >
          > So unless you can point me to any dangers for the LS
          > using my
          > setup, I'm going to go with that.

          Your correct with the part number that you selected.
          So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have
          something that works and keeps the functionality of
          the button.

          Many years ago, like 20, I used this technique to turn
          off an audio processor when the AMP turned off. I
          also had the ability to turn the audio system on via
          the processors remote, Still works.
          Weird switches (Dedicated off)
          ON (one push -20 db, 2nd push 0 db)
          Since the circuitry was external, isolation was
          important,

          Thanks for catching the errors.

          KISS
          >
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Schelte.
          >




          __________________________________________
          Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
          Just $16.99/mo. or less.
          dsl.yahoo.com
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.