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Re: [LinkStation_General] Restart on Power Failure?!

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  • KeepIt SimpleStupid
    ... Try this on for size: Disconnect the switch from the non ground side. Label the switch point (b) and the circuit board side point (b). Connect the anodes
    Message 1 of 14 , Jan 6, 2006
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      --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:

      > On Friday 06 January 2006 05:48, KeepIt SimpleStupid
      > wrote:
      > > Not knowing exactly what the LS has you can try
      > > something like wire oring.
      > >
      > The ascii picture is a bit hard to make out, but
      > that looks
      > exactly like the setup I used and described on the
      > wiki. With
      > my more complicated proposal I'm trying to address
      > the concerns
      > some people raised about that first setup.
      >
      > > Add your resistor if you care. I'm assuming that
      > the
      > > LS uses a contact closure to ground, but it
      > doesn't
      > > have to be.
      > >
      > > What chip/pin is the power switch going to. Is it
      > > connected to anything else like a pull up or pull
      > down
      > > resistor?
      > >
      > The LS indeed uses a contact closure to ground. I
      > haven't been
      > able to determine where the signal is going to. I
      > lost track of
      > the circuit board trace when it disappeared under
      > the IDE
      > connector. From my measurements it appears like the
      > signal is
      > pulled up with a resistance of around 7K.
      >
      >
      > Schelte.


      Try this on for size:

      Disconnect the switch from the non ground side. Label
      the switch point (b) and the circuit board side point
      (b).

      Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together and
      connect to point (b).

      Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point (a).

      Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and the
      negative of the cap to ground.

      In this case the diodes create isolation and there is
      no issue of a cap across the switch.

      If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch, then
      go to plan (b).

      Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
      Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
      doesn't matter.

      Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or even
      12V and pull this resistor to this voltage. Connect
      the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
      from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 * R *
      C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms, and C
      is in Farads.

      KISS








      __________________________________________
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    • KeepIt SimpleStupid
      I was a little hasty before I replied. There is a problem with both designs. The reset time would be really bad because the charge on the capacitor would not
      Message 2 of 14 , Jan 6, 2006
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        I was a little hasty before I replied. There is a
        problem with both designs. The reset time would be
        really bad because the charge on the capacitor would
        not drain. I'd suggest a starting value of a parallel
        resistor of ten times the value of R used.

        KISS

        --- KeepIt SimpleStupid <keepitsimplestupid@...>
        wrote:

        >
        >
        > --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:
        >
        > > On Friday 06 January 2006 05:48, KeepIt
        > SimpleStupid
        > > wrote:
        > > > Not knowing exactly what the LS has you can try
        > > > something like wire oring.
        > > >
        > > The ascii picture is a bit hard to make out, but
        > > that looks
        > > exactly like the setup I used and described on the
        > > wiki. With
        > > my more complicated proposal I'm trying to address
        > > the concerns
        > > some people raised about that first setup.
        > >
        > > > Add your resistor if you care. I'm assuming
        > that
        > > the
        > > > LS uses a contact closure to ground, but it
        > > doesn't
        > > > have to be.
        > > >
        > > > What chip/pin is the power switch going to. Is
        > it
        > > > connected to anything else like a pull up or
        > pull
        > > down
        > > > resistor?
        > > >
        > > The LS indeed uses a contact closure to ground. I
        > > haven't been
        > > able to determine where the signal is going to. I
        > > lost track of
        > > the circuit board trace when it disappeared under
        > > the IDE
        > > connector. From my measurements it appears like
        > the
        > > signal is
        > > pulled up with a resistance of around 7K.
        > >
        > >
        > > Schelte.
        >
        >
        > Try this on for size:
        >
        > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side.
        > Label
        > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side
        > point
        > (b).
        >
        > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together and
        > connect to point (b).
        >
        > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point
        > (a).
        >
        > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and the
        > negative of the cap to ground.
        >
        > In this case the diodes create isolation and there
        > is
        > no issue of a cap across the switch.
        >
        > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch, then
        > go to plan (b).
        >
        > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
        > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
        > doesn't matter.
        >
        > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or even
        > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage. Connect
        > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
        > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 * R
        > *
        > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms, and
        > C
        > is in Farads.
        >
        > KISS
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > __________________________________________
        > Yahoo! DSL � Something to write home about.
        > Just $16.99/mo. or less.
        > dsl.yahoo.com
        >
        >




        __________________________________________
        Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
        Just $16.99/mo. or less.
        dsl.yahoo.com
      • Schelte Bron
        ... Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think there s a slight miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is about as simple as it gets and has a
        Message 3 of 14 , Jan 7, 2006
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          On Saturday 07 January 2006 00:11, KeepIt SimpleStupid wrote:
          > Try this on for size:
          >
          > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side. Label
          > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side point
          > (b).
          >
          > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together and
          > connect to point (b).
          >
          > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point (a).
          >
          > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and the
          > negative of the cap to ground.
          >
          > In this case the diodes create isolation and there is
          > no issue of a cap across the switch.
          >
          > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch, then
          > go to plan (b).
          >
          > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
          > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
          > doesn't matter.
          >
          > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or even
          > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage. Connect
          > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
          > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 * R *
          > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms, and C
          > is in Farads.
          >
          Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think there's a slight
          miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is about as
          simple as it gets and has a reasonable reset time (3 seconds).
          My only question was if anyone sees any problems with that
          design.

          If you look at the picture I included in the wiki article you
          will see that your plan A is not going to work because
          unsoldering the switch cannot be done without a big risk of
          damaging the LS.

          Your plan B doesn't sound simpler than my proposal and I don't
          see how it could work. The part number you mentioned is a 16
          pin SMD 4-port opto-isolator and you seem to be using pins from
          different ports. I assume you meant something like p/n H11F1-ND
          or similar, but then the circuit is still more complicated than
          mine and I don't see any advantages.

          So unless you can point me to any dangers for the LS using my
          setup, I'm going to go with that.


          Thanks,
          Schelte.
        • KeepIt SimpleStupid
          ... Your correct with the part number that you selected. So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have something that works and keeps the functionality of
          Message 4 of 14 , Jan 7, 2006
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            --- Schelte Bron <sbron@...> wrote:

            > On Saturday 07 January 2006 00:11, KeepIt
            > SimpleStupid wrote:
            > > Try this on for size:
            > >
            > > Disconnect the switch from the non ground side.
            > Label
            > > the switch point (b) and the circuit board side
            > point
            > > (b).
            > >
            > > Connect the anodes of two 1n4001 diodes together
            > and
            > > connect to point (b).
            > >
            > > Connect the cathode of one of the diodes to point
            > (a).
            > >
            > > Connect the cathode of the other to your cap and
            > the
            > > negative of the cap to ground.
            > >
            > > In this case the diodes create isolation and there
            > is
            > > no issue of a cap across the switch.
            > >
            > > If you cannot unsolder both ends of the switch,
            > then
            > > go to plan (b).
            > >
            > > Obtain p/n CNC1H001CT-ND from www.digi-key.com.
            > > Connect pins 4 and 6 across the switch. Polarity
            > > doesn't matter.
            > >
            > > Make R=(Vcc-1.2)/10mA. Vcc could be 3.3, 5 or
            > even
            > > 12V and pull this resistor to this voltage.
            > Connect
            > > the other end of this resistor to pin #1 and a cap
            > > from pin 2 to ground observing polarity. Make 5 *
            > R *
            > > C about equal to (0.1 to 0.5 where R is in ohms,
            > and C
            > > is in Farads.
            > >
            > Thanks for thinking along with me, but I think
            > there's a slight
            > miscommunication. The setup I proposed works, is
            > about as
            > simple as it gets and has a reasonable reset time (3
            > seconds).
            > My only question was if anyone sees any problems
            > with that
            > design.
            >
            > If you look at the picture I included in the wiki
            > article you
            > will see that your plan A is not going to work
            > because
            > unsoldering the switch cannot be done without a big
            > risk of
            > damaging the LS.
            >
            > Your plan B doesn't sound simpler than my proposal
            > and I don't
            > see how it could work. The part number you mentioned
            > is a 16
            > pin SMD 4-port opto-isolator and you seem to be
            > using pins from
            > different ports. I assume you meant something like
            > p/n H11F1-ND
            > or similar, but then the circuit is still more
            > complicated than
            > mine and I don't see any advantages.
            >
            > So unless you can point me to any dangers for the LS
            > using my
            > setup, I'm going to go with that.

            Your correct with the part number that you selected.
            So one cap, 1 IC and 2 resistors you should have
            something that works and keeps the functionality of
            the button.

            Many years ago, like 20, I used this technique to turn
            off an audio processor when the AMP turned off. I
            also had the ability to turn the audio system on via
            the processors remote, Still works.
            Weird switches (Dedicated off)
            ON (one push -20 db, 2nd push 0 db)
            Since the circuitry was external, isolation was
            important,

            Thanks for catching the errors.

            KISS
            >
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Schelte.
            >




            __________________________________________
            Yahoo! DSL – Something to write home about.
            Just $16.99/mo. or less.
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