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Re: Chainmail

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  • robjanzerog <zerog_robjan@hotmail.com>
    ... long it usually takes to make. ... G day Matt, Oh, well, about five foot usually! (And an unfailing sense of humour!) Cheerio Rob Jan Oz
    Message 1 of 7 , Jan 1, 2003
      --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, Matthew Campuzano
      <belegmin@y...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi all!
      >
      > I am trying to make a coat of chainmail, and I was wondering how
      long it usually takes to make.
      >
      > Thanks!

      G'day Matt,

      Oh, well, about five foot usually!

      (And an unfailing sense of humour!)

      Cheerio

      Rob Jan
      Oz
      >
      >
      >
      > ---------------------------------
      > Do you Yahoo!?
      > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • J_B_Brouwer <j_b_brouwer@yahoo.com>
      ... Warning: lecture follows. If you re not interested, just click next :) (Cat, if you want this, you have my permission to use it) Pretty much any material
      Message 2 of 7 , Jan 2, 2003
        --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "Teknolord <claus@f...>"
        <claus@f...> wrote:
        > Working with chainmails is very subjective, regarding what u want...
        > Hard durable require steel, u can get a shiny nice one if u make it
        > in aluminum/aluminium, copper will make a variation, etc etc, and
        > lets not forget the size of the rings will define how pretty the
        > chainmail will look

        Warning: lecture follows. If you're not interested, just click 'next':)
        (Cat, if you want this, you have my permission to use it)

        Pretty much any material can be made into maille, the definition of
        maille being a 'fabric' of interlocked rings. So far there's
        spaghettio maille, hula hoop maille, balloon maille....you get the point.

        On a more practical level, there are many materials that would make
        wearable maille (be it armour or jewelry). Some of those would be
        plastics, but the first thing that comes to mind is metal (well that
        and I know squat about plastics:)). There are many metals, all with
        their pros and cons. Mild steel is easy to work with, authentic (well,
        from the point where they learned how to make steel from iron) and
        works as riveted maille, which is a type of maille that's pretty light
        for how strong it is, and it was the primary type used in the middle
        ages in Europe. Riveted maille has rings with ends that overlap a bit,
        with a rivet going through both ends. Mild steel is prone to rust if
        you don't take care of it religiously.

        Stainless steel stays shiny much longer (it will stain, but only under
        extreme circumstances or after very very long use). It is a very tough
        material, so it holds up well but is harder on your hands both when
        cutting rings and weaving. The kind of stainless that's called
        surgical stainless steel can be friendlier on those with metal
        allergies, this is the kind that's widely used in body jewelry.

        Galvanized steel, or 'galvy' is a much used material because it is
        easy to get a hold of, doesn't rust much and is easy to work with. It
        is basically mild steel with a zinc layer that protects it against the
        elements. The main problems one can have are oxidation of the zinc,
        rusting of exposed steel and the Smell. The zinc can turn dark or go
        dull with age or exposure to sweat and moisture, but some like the
        look that this gives. The ring ends will not be caoted so they can
        rust, and heavy wear and tear or poor quality galvy can cause flaking
        of the zinc layer so the steel will become exposed and can rust. Also,
        some wire comes with a strange smell (other than the basic metal
        smell, that's always there) when you buy it or acquires a nasty smell
        after wearing it. Body chemistry plays a part here, some people just
        turn galvy smelly and some don't. It doesn't mean you're unwashed or
        anything, it just means your skin doesn't want you wearing galvy and
        is being vocal about it.

        Bright aluminum is very popular for non-traditional maille
        applications. It makes very light tank tops, neckties, jewelry and
        even dresses. It recreates the look of maille, but not the weight.
        Bright aluminum is used where appearances are most important, it is a
        purer alloy of aluminum. It can be somewhat more brittle than dull
        aluminum but this doesn't matter much except for use for armour
        purposes, where dull alu is the preferred type of alu. It does not
        usually leave marks on skin. This is very good for costume purposes as
        it's lighter than most materials and easy on your hands as you work
        with it.

        Dull aluminum is an aluminum alloy that is less pure than bright
        aluminum. It is tougher and less brittle, and in thicker wire gauges
        will make fully functional armour. But dull aluminum is lighter than
        most armour grade materials. It does have a problem with black rub-off
        that doesn't stop but washing it every now and then helps. The rub off
        washes out with water so it's not that big of a deal.

        Anodized aluminum is aluminum that was put under an electric current
        to make it absorb dye, and then sealed to keep the color in. The color
        is a layer that can wear off or be scratched with other metal objects,
        but if your skin isn't the kind that eats metal, and you don't carry
        bracelets in your pocket with your keys, you can have a lot of fun
        with this.

        Copper is easy to get (in the form of electricity wire). It is soft
        (how soft depends on the kind you get) and heavy, and is usually used
        to add color to a project, although some make entire projects with it.
        A whole shirt would be hard to wear and in soft copper would probably
        be torn apart under its own weight, but in jewelry it works just fine.
        Copper starts out as a shiny warm orangey color and turns brownish
        pretty fast. A dunk in lemon juice can make it shiny again. Copper can
        turn your skin green, but hey, if you like the woodelf look...:)
        (again, some people experience more green skin than others).
        (actually I've toyed with the idea of making a chain weave armband to
        see if it leaves a pretty temporary tattoo)

        Enameled copper or artist wire is usually a very soft kind of copper
        with a plastic color layer around it (sometimes it is silver plated to
        get some shine). You can get it in many colors, as well as metal
        tones. The color layer is rather vulnerable to scratching or being
        marred by your tools though, and the wire is dead soft so you need
        thicker wire for the same purpose as when you're working in other
        materials.

        Brass and bronze are copper alloys. Brass tends to be goldish and
        bronze more copper/brown toned. Brass is authentic in trims for maille
        shirts of a sturdier material, but bronze is used for trim now as
        well. Brass is a popular gold substitute in maille jewelry and both
        materials are valued for their color as most maille materials are
        silver toned. They are easy to work with and harder than copper, but
        still not armour grade. Depending on the alloy and your body
        chemistry, it will or will not have a bit of the greenman syndrome
        that copper has.

        Titanium is a pretty high tech material. It's light and strong
        (heavier than alu though) and can be given different colors with an
        electric current or heat. The color layer is actually harder than the
        titanium itself, but again, don't keep it with your car keys. Common
        sense still aplies. The original look of it is a dull grey shine that
        some hate and others like. Most people with metal allergies can wear
        titanium, this metal is used a lot in surgery where people have to
        walk around with a plate or screws in their body for a long time.

        Niobium is the high end color prettiness metal. It can be anodized
        with an electric current to take on different colors and the color
        layer is pretty hard and thick. I have a friend who has a very
        aggressive body chemistry, and niobium is his preferred colored
        material because it tends to hold its color for at least a month or
        two (where alu is eaten away in a matter of weeks). On us, the ones
        who can wear piercings longer than half year without them being
        dissolved, the color should last a very long time (if not for a
        lifetime).

        All these materials can be bought in readymade rings for the ones who
        don't want to coil and cut. But anything you find might make good
        maille, you only have to try (this reminds me of several people I know
        who get a strange look in their eyes when they see metal coat hangers,
        or turkey trussing wire, or the twisty things you use to close plastic
        bags).

        That was pretty much it, I haven't covered every conceivable material
        but I hope I've managed to shed some light on this without confusing
        people even further. Besides, I haven't contributed much to the forum
        in terms of textile tips, I should share what I do know. If you have
        any questions, let me know or ask the nice people at the Chainmaille
        Board (http://chainmaille.prohosting.com)
      • Douglas Donin
        The number of rings, the lenght of wire used and the craft time depends of (mainly) four factors: 1 - the weaving method, 2 - the diameter of each ring, 3 -
        Message 3 of 7 , Jan 2, 2003
          The number of rings, the lenght of wire used and the craft time depends of
          (mainly) four factors:

          1 - the weaving method,
          2 - the diameter of each ring,
          3 - the gauge of the wire,
          4 - the skill of the crafter.

          The most common weaving method is called "4 in 1", and is an european style.
          Each ring, as the name says, is linked to other four rings. It makes a very
          light mail (compared with other mailes with the same wire gauge but higher
          linking rate), and is pretty flexible. If i'm not wrong, all models used id
          LOTR are "4 in 1" models (except maybe by the elven mails, wich resemble a
          persian uncommom style of weaving: must confirm this). If you are new into
          this mailmaking stuff, you should try this method.

          Higher the diameter of each ring, higher will be its flexibility, and less
          wire you will use. But if you make very large rings it will become weak,
          with loosing links, and also less impressive-looking.

          The higher the gauge, higher will be its durability, but also higher will be
          the crafting time, since it's more difficult to cut, open and close. Also,
          high gauges demands larger rings.

          Skill: well, if this is your first mail, be prepared to spend some time in
          it. the crafting can be pretty boring and slow, but after some time, you
          will be more used to it and will develop new methods (hint: not all rings
          must be opened and closed in the weaving! think in pre-linked rings!)

          This webpage can help you a lot:

          http://homepage.ntlworld.com/trevor.barker/farisles/guilds/armour/mail.html

          The last mail i maked took me 2 weeks of work (1 hour a day) and about 20
          lbs of galvanized stell stell (gauge 16). My first one took 5 weeks!
        • flameofthewest1324 <flameofthewest1324@y
          hi! i m making chainmail right now, but i wouldn t recommend it to you. i m VERY dexterous, and it is still extremely hard for me. so far, i have been
          Message 4 of 7 , Jan 26, 2003
            hi!

            i'm making chainmail right now, but i wouldn't recommend it to
            you. i'm VERY dexterous, and it is still extremely hard for me. so
            far, i have been working on my chainmail shirt for about 12
            hours, and it only measures 5 inches by 7 1/2 inches.

            it really all depends what size rings you use. smaller rings look
            cooler, but using them is very difficult.

            anyway, a good site for chainmail is www.theringlord.com .
            that's where i got my rings. they also have direstions for making
            your own chainmail, patterns, tools, etc.

            i'm guessing that all in all, it will take me about 240 hours to
            complete my chainmail shirt--the equivalent of 10 straight days
            of work. which means that i will be working on this shirt for quite
            some time yet.

            good luck!

            -flame


            --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, "robjanzerog
            <zerog_robjan@h...>" <zerog_robjan@h...> wrote:
            > --- In LOTR_Costume@yahoogroups.com, Matthew
            Campuzano
            > <belegmin@y...> wrote:
            > >
            > > Hi all!
            > >
            > > I am trying to make a coat of chainmail, and I was wondering
            how
            > long it usually takes to make.
            > >
            > > Thanks!
            >
            > G'day Matt,
            >
            > Oh, well, about five foot usually!
            >
            > (And an unfailing sense of humour!)
            >
            > Cheerio
            >
            > Rob Jan
            > Oz
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > ---------------------------------
            > > Do you Yahoo!?
            > > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
            > >
            > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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