61827RE: Leather dye - RIT?
- Mar 9, 2014Excellent. Tooling leather really is the stuff, but I've run into far too many times where folks are using a suede or a blacksmith- and can't figure why it isn't doing what they want...
Tooling will take almost any type of color- just don't get it dripping wet, and you'll be fine, overall. Remember that the leather has a sort of "sweet spot" as far as taking stamping or impressing as far as getting wet is concerned, too wet, and it won't take the impression well, too dry- and you work super hard to get it where you want- and then it dries and disappears... The same will apply to the dye, so no soaking it!
I would actually recommend the Feibings "green" with an undercoat of the "medium-" or "dark- brown" colors. After you get a nice color of the dark brown, let it sit until dry- call it a couple hours, then add the green. The green goes on VERY bright at first, so you'll be using a LOT to get it to the super-dark forest color. The edges will take a TON, especially.As to a finish, Saddle lac is an easy one, nice and flexible, and in a rattle can. As noted by another person, rub it with an abrasive pad- I don't use steel wool, because I don;t like rust spots and metal splinters- I get enough of those froom my knife grinding! Instead I use 3M scrubby pads- a new one for dishes will work, or you can get them as "non-woven abrasives" at Home Depot or any other hardware store. You'll want one that's 400-600 grit equivalent- this is usually called "very-" or "super-" fine. The last ones I got were 800 grit, and a dark grey color...I have also use Rust-o-leum's interior satin finish Urethane on leather, and it works a charm- but it goes on THICK, so you need to be careful. It works best on heavier things, where you want a bombproof finish that is water proof, like bracers~Lots of good advice in the thread, so twixt us all, you're gonna be fine!
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