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A few questions

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  • Lenny Reich
    Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions -- The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast
    Message 1 of 8 , Jun 24, 2009
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      Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --

      The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?

      Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.

      What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.

      Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.

      Thanks for your input --

      Lenny
    • jason3317@gmail.com
      Lenny: here s some of my thoughts to your questions. Where do they connect into the boat s electrical system - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a
      Message 2 of 8 , Jun 24, 2009
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        Lenny: here"s some of my thoughts to your questions.

        Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system

        - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a hole near the step), then run under the floor boards. They connect the the house wiring in the bilge area underneath the storage area in the v-berth.

        Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway?

        - I am still dealing with the one piece hatch, but its on the list to replace or modify....like cut in two with a teak batten trim board affixed to cover the cut. Or, I may go all out and fab a similar hatch out of teak.

        What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8"

        - I would go with 9-12 mm, depending on how thick you like your sheet. Weight of the sheet on the clew is a consideration. I have 9.5 mm dyneema double braid.
        Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?

        - I have a spinlock xts rope clutch rivetted to the side of the mast (above the gooseneck). I might have not done it this way, but it does work.

        Jason

        Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry


        From: "Lenny Reich"
        Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:57:11 -0000
        To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
        Subject: [J28Sailors] A few questions

        Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --

        The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?

        Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.

        What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.

        Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.

        Thanks for your input --

        Lenny

      • j28sailor50
        Lenny, My set up is different in a couple ways. Mast wires run out just near the cabin top like yours. Then down to eyelets on a screw junction block three
        Message 3 of 8 , Jun 25, 2009
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          Lenny,

          My set up is different in a couple ways.

          Mast wires run out just near the cabin top like yours. Then down to eyelets on a screw junction block three feet off the mast step. The boat wires run up from cabin sole next through a notch in the port side next to the mast step. There are a couple wire ties screwed to the mast to keep the wires out of the way. This is fairly convenient for removing the mast, which I do every year now. I can get the wires clear and out before the mast goes up to far.

          I still have the same hatch. Have a nice cloth screen with 1" rope around the outside that I can thow over the hatch area. Keeps the bugs out and the air moving when I am on the boat.

          Have 1/2" genoa sheets, they work fine for the the winches but are heavy when the winds are light.

          My boat is set up with two turning blocks on the port side of the mast leading back to a deck organizer then to spinlocks near the port cabin top winch. This side serves the main and 1st jib halyards. Similarly the starboard side has three turning blocks, deck organizer then spinlocks near the starboard cabin top winch. The starboard side serves the 2nd jib halyard, spinnaker halyard and toping lift. Pole down hall runs along the deck to a cam cleat on the side of the cabin. Everything right back to cockpit, very convenient with minimal crew requirements.

          Bruce


          --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@... wrote:
          >
          > Lenny: here"s some of my thoughts to your questions.
          >
          > Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system
          >
          > - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a hole near the step), then run under the floor boards. They connect the the house wiring in the bilge area underneath the storage area in the v-berth.
          >
          > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway?
          >
          > - I am still dealing with the one piece hatch, but its on the list to replace or modify....like cut in two with a teak batten trim board affixed to cover the cut. Or, I may go all out and fab a similar hatch out of teak.
          >
          > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8"
          >
          > - I would go with 9-12 mm, depending on how thick you like your sheet. Weight of the sheet on the clew is a consideration. I have 9.5 mm dyneema double braid.
          > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?
          >
          > - I have a spinlock xts rope clutch rivetted to the side of the mast (above the gooseneck). I might have not done it this way, but it does work.
          >
          > Jason
          > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
          >
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...>
          >
          > Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:57:11
          > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
          > Subject: [J28Sailors] A few questions
          >
          >
          > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
          >
          > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?
          >
          > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.
          >
          > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
          >
          > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
          >
          > Thanks for your input --
          >
          > Lenny
          >
        • thconway1
          I replaced 1/2 inch sheets with 3/8. They are very slippery on the winch compared to 1/2. 1/2 just seems overkill, but everything on this boat seems like it
          Message 4 of 8 , Jun 26, 2009
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            I replaced 1/2 inch sheets with 3/8. They are very slippery on the winch compared to 1/2. 1/2 just seems overkill, but everything on this boat seems like it was designed for a bigger boat including the primaries. That is part of my love for this boat. I take a 3 and 1 year old out, so I like having everything over specs.

            --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28sailor50" <misailor@...> wrote:
            >
            > Lenny,
            >
            > My set up is different in a couple ways.
            >
            > Mast wires run out just near the cabin top like yours. Then down to eyelets on a screw junction block three feet off the mast step. The boat wires run up from cabin sole next through a notch in the port side next to the mast step. There are a couple wire ties screwed to the mast to keep the wires out of the way. This is fairly convenient for removing the mast, which I do every year now. I can get the wires clear and out before the mast goes up to far.
            >
            > I still have the same hatch. Have a nice cloth screen with 1" rope around the outside that I can thow over the hatch area. Keeps the bugs out and the air moving when I am on the boat.
            >
            > Have 1/2" genoa sheets, they work fine for the the winches but are heavy when the winds are light.
            >
            > My boat is set up with two turning blocks on the port side of the mast leading back to a deck organizer then to spinlocks near the port cabin top winch. This side serves the main and 1st jib halyards. Similarly the starboard side has three turning blocks, deck organizer then spinlocks near the starboard cabin top winch. The starboard side serves the 2nd jib halyard, spinnaker halyard and toping lift. Pole down hall runs along the deck to a cam cleat on the side of the cabin. Everything right back to cockpit, very convenient with minimal crew requirements.
            >
            > Bruce
            >
            >
            > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, jason3317@ wrote:
            > >
            > > Lenny: here"s some of my thoughts to your questions.
            > >
            > > Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system
            > >
            > > - on my boat, the wires exit through the mast (a hole near the step), then run under the floor boards. They connect the the house wiring in the bilge area underneath the storage area in the v-berth.
            > >
            > > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway?
            > >
            > > - I am still dealing with the one piece hatch, but its on the list to replace or modify....like cut in two with a teak batten trim board affixed to cover the cut. Or, I may go all out and fab a similar hatch out of teak.
            > >
            > > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8"
            > >
            > > - I would go with 9-12 mm, depending on how thick you like your sheet. Weight of the sheet on the clew is a consideration. I have 9.5 mm dyneema double braid.
            > > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard?
            > >
            > > - I have a spinlock xts rope clutch rivetted to the side of the mast (above the gooseneck). I might have not done it this way, but it does work.
            > >
            > > Jason
            > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
            > >
            > > -----Original Message-----
            > > From: "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@>
            > >
            > > Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 23:57:11
            > > To: <J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com>
            > > Subject: [J28Sailors] A few questions
            > >
            > >
            > > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
            > >
            > > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?
            > >
            > > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.
            > >
            > > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
            > >
            > > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
            > >
            > > Thanks for your input --
            > >
            > > Lenny
            > >
            >
          • j28verve
            ... I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it correctly. Today, we have a trailer hitches three-prong rubber plug that
            Message 5 of 8 , Jul 6, 2009
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              --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@...> wrote:
              >
              > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
              >
              > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?

              I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it correctly. Today, we have a trailer hitches' three-prong rubber plug that connects at the mast step under the floor board (it does not come down from the ceiling as you described). It doesn't work. This was an emergency fix two seasons ago after the boat yard obliterated the original conduit plug. However, I know the both lights do technically work as these were tested (with a 12 volt external battery) prior to the mast going up.

              From my memory, coming out of the mast, I have two sets of wires and a larger diameter yellow wire, which I take to be the ground (or lightening rod).

              Set 1: yellow + green
              Set 2: brown + white

              I don't recall the wire colors coming from the boat's electric supply. I am confused.

              If anyone could help me with the wiring, this would really help me (or better, take a digital picture) of the connection.




              >
              > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.
              >
              > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.

              Bigger is definitely better on your hands. Technically, you can get away with a good quality sheet like New England Ropes Staset 3/8" but it will chew your hands to pieces. I know this, because I did this for my spinnaker sheets. 1/2" is the way to go and slickness finish goes away after a season. Milwaukee Rigging on eBay has decent prices for sta-set.




              >
              > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.

              You should consider routing the halyard and pole via blocks and a clutch to the cockpit. I don't like going up to the mast to drop a spinnaker (unless you are talking about an asymmetric with a sock.


              >
              > Thanks for your input --
              >
              > Lenny
              >
            • j28sailor50
              Connecting the lights will not be too difficult. Do you want to solder or crimp on the connections? Find out the color of the wires on the boat side. Do you
              Message 6 of 8 , Jul 6, 2009
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                Connecting the lights will not be too difficult. Do you want to solder or crimp on the connections? Find out the color of the wires on the boat side. Do you have 3 or 4 wires on the boat side? My mast and boat have both black and white wires for each light, so the set is different.

                You know the sets on the mast side. You can twist one mast set of wires to a boat set then check to see if it is connected to the right switch before you make a better connection.

                If there are three wires on the boat side one is ground. We will have to figure out which one, I can help you through that.

                Bruce


                --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28verve" <rryan14@...> wrote:
                >
                > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
                > >
                > > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?
                >
                > I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it correctly. Today, we have a trailer hitches' three-prong rubber plug that connects at the mast step under the floor board (it does not come down from the ceiling as you described). It doesn't work. This was an emergency fix two seasons ago after the boat yard obliterated the original conduit plug. However, I know the both lights do technically work as these were tested (with a 12 volt external battery) prior to the mast going up.
                >
                > From my memory, coming out of the mast, I have two sets of wires and a larger diameter yellow wire, which I take to be the ground (or lightening rod).
                >
                > Set 1: yellow + green
                > Set 2: brown + white
                >
                > I don't recall the wire colors coming from the boat's electric supply. I am confused.
                >
                > If anyone could help me with the wiring, this would really help me (or better, take a digital picture) of the connection.
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > >
                > > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.
                > >
                > > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
                >
                > Bigger is definitely better on your hands. Technically, you can get away with a good quality sheet like New England Ropes Staset 3/8" but it will chew your hands to pieces. I know this, because I did this for my spinnaker sheets. 1/2" is the way to go and slickness finish goes away after a season. Milwaukee Rigging on eBay has decent prices for sta-set.
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > >
                > > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
                >
                > You should consider routing the halyard and pole via blocks and a clutch to the cockpit. I don't like going up to the mast to drop a spinnaker (unless you are talking about an asymmetric with a sock.
                >
                >
                > >
                > > Thanks for your input --
                > >
                > > Lenny
                > >
                >
              • Jason Smith
                Lenny, if you go with new jib sheets, you may consider using 5/16 (8mm) - but have an extra cover added to the last 5-6ft on each end to bulk up the line where
                Message 7 of 8 , Jul 6, 2009
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                  Lenny, if you go with new jib sheets, you may consider using 5/16
                  (8mm) - but have an extra cover added to the last 5-6ft on each end to
                  bulk up the line where it is winched and handled. Or, use a larger
                  diameter and strip the cover. You get the idea.
                • jfws88
                  Lenny, Unless you have LED lights for steaming and masthead polarity doesn t matter. You should have four wires coming from your switch box, two hot 12vdc+
                  Message 8 of 8 , Jul 7, 2009
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                    Lenny,

                    Unless you have LED lights for steaming and masthead polarity doesn't matter. You should have four wires coming from your switch box, two "hot" 12vdc+ and two ground, 12vdc-. If you can ID these wires and the two pairs coming down the mast, connect the pair with one 12vdc+ and one 12vdc-. Turn that switch on and see which light, mast head or steaming comes on. label and/or rewire accordingly.

                    If no lights come on them it's possible the wires got pulled out but They are pretty secure in the conduit so I dought it. It they did, major PITA.


                    --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "j28verve" <rryan14@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny Reich" <lsreich@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > Now that my boat is all together and in the water, I have a few questions --
                    > >
                    > > The electric power cables for the mast-head light and steaming light exit the mast just below the mast collar, up near the ceiling in the forward cabin. They are rather long, and I have a feeling that the guys who prepared the boat for transport pulled them out of their conduit. Where do they connect into the boat's electrical system?
                    >
                    > I have this very problem and may resort to having a marine electrician fix it correctly. Today, we have a trailer hitches' three-prong rubber plug that connects at the mast step under the floor board (it does not come down from the ceiling as you described). It doesn't work. This was an emergency fix two seasons ago after the boat yard obliterated the original conduit plug. However, I know the both lights do technically work as these were tested (with a 12 volt external battery) prior to the mast going up.
                    >
                    > From my memory, coming out of the mast, I have two sets of wires and a larger diameter yellow wire, which I take to be the ground (or lightening rod).
                    >
                    > Set 1: yellow + green
                    > Set 2: brown + white
                    >
                    > I don't recall the wire colors coming from the boat's electric supply. I am confused.
                    >
                    > If anyone could help me with the wiring, this would really help me (or better, take a digital picture) of the connection.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > >
                    > > Has anyone modified or replaced the monolithic Lexan drop board for the companionway? It just seems heavy, awkward, and ugly. Two or three wooden boards would look very nice in there.
                    > >
                    > > What size genoa sheets work best? The ones I have inherited are 3/8" and slip through the winch self-tailing mechanism. I tried a small piece of 7/16", but that seemed to slip a bit too, while 1/2" seems awfully big.
                    >
                    > Bigger is definitely better on your hands. Technically, you can get away with a good quality sheet like New England Ropes Staset 3/8" but it will chew your hands to pieces. I know this, because I did this for my spinnaker sheets. 1/2" is the way to go and slickness finish goes away after a season. Milwaukee Rigging on eBay has decent prices for sta-set.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > >
                    > > Where do you cleat the spinnaker halyard? I only have one cleat on the mast, and the topping lift needs it. At the moment, I have run the halyard through a turning block at the base of the mast and tied it off to the grab-rail -- not a very good solution. I suppose I could mount another cleat on the mast or maybe one on the deck, between the mast and the small hatch above the head.
                    >
                    > You should consider routing the halyard and pole via blocks and a clutch to the cockpit. I don't like going up to the mast to drop a spinnaker (unless you are talking about an asymmetric with a sock.
                    >
                    >
                    > >
                    > > Thanks for your input --
                    > >
                    > > Lenny
                    > >
                    >
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