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709Re: [J28Sailors] Re: Questions for the group

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  • Jeff Hoagg
    Mar 24, 2013
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      Brad,
      You will find the degree of oxidization will determine how you must deal with it.  Yes, very light oxidization can probably be removed in one step with the a cleaner/wax.  But even moderate oxidization will require two steps.  First some type of rubbing compound (light duty or heavier duty) applied by machine, and then a polish/wax.  Finally, if you have heavy oxidization, there is simply no way around 3 steps to get good results:  1) wet sanding 2) compounding 3) polish/wax. 

      If what you are currently using is not yielding good results, then it simply isn't aggressive enough.  Just about  any amount of oxidization requires that you actually remove a very thin top layer of the (oxidized and compromised) gelcoat.  

      If you have moderate oxidization, don't hesitate to first use a rubbing compound with a machine.  Yes, the extra step takes time, but the buffing/polishing  machine at least does a lot of the work for you. If you have heavier oxidization, and really want to restore the shine, etc. of the gelcoat, don't be afraid of wet sanding.  It does take time and effort, but the results are worth it if you want to bring back the shiny gelcoat look.   And wet sanding is not rocket science.  It can sound a bit scary, but simply using the right grit wet/dry paper and a few simple tips make it much easier than it sounds.    

      I found some really good "how-to" articles with specific useful tips I can send you if you like.  
           

      From: taylorbj28 <taylorbj28@...>
      To: J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Sunday, March 24, 2013 6:02 PM
      Subject: [J28Sailors] Re: Questions for the group

       
      John,

      I have been trying to buff out gelcoat oxidation with a buffer and Rule Restorer and Wax. Not sure how it will last. Did you wet sand,then use rubbing compound, then polish?? I am trying to do it in one step. Advise?

      I also am thinking of repairing some wet balsa around my port chainplate (10" square)from underneath so as not to damage the deck from the top. I would love to hear how this is going for you!

      Thank you,
      Brad Taylor

      --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "jhoagg123" <jhoagg123@...> wrote:
      >
      > BTW - I just posted pictures of my boat (Hull #25 - rechristened "Akula"). Her factory gelcoat color is medium grey (with red gelcoat boot and cove stripes). The hull was heavily oxidized when I bought the boat, and I just spent days wet sanding, compounding and polishing the gelcoat. I learned a lot in the process, so if anyone has this type of project coming up, I might have some helpful tips.
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "jhoagg123" <jhoagg123@> wrote:
      > >
      > > John,
      > > Can't help with the first two questions, but on the third: you might think about trying a heat gun and sharp scraper. I have read if you are careful with the heat gun (not to burn the wood), this can be good way to remove the old finish. I am going to try it on my exterior teak.
      > >
      > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "John" <sailingmaster@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hello all
      > > >
      > > > Anxiously awaiting spring here and in full speed mode to make some repairs and get the boat cleaned up for launch in mid april... assuming it will stop snowing in CT at somepoint.
      > > >
      > > > First question, has anyone here done any re-core of their decks, specifically at the chainplate.
      > > > My sureveyor thought my decks were showing moisture from the chainplates to the cockpit.
      > > >
      > > > Bad news is a lot of SOAKED rotted core, around the stb chainplate and a litte on the port side
      > > > but the rest of the deck is bone dry. I have the hanging locker out and am GOING IN, from underneath. Does anyone know what thickness the balsa to use? and tips or advice for refinishing the ceiling after this is done? The repair is going much quicker and easier than I thought...just trying to gather as much info from anyone that has done this. David Hastings did this repair on his boat and has a lot of good ideas i can forward if anyone else is "in the same boat" as me :)
      > > >
      > > > Second question, Any good advice re removing old 4200 from the fasteners and deck before I re bed the the hardware?
      > > >
      > > > Third question. The preovious owners used Cetol on the wood work, I have to admit that for the past two years I have not had time to keep it up so its time to strip off and start over. I hate the chem strippers to begin with and since the deck is opened up and drying the use of water etc is out of the question at the moment....any thoughts
      > > >
      > > > Thinks spring....some day ill get a new genoa!
      > > >
      > > > JP
      > > >
      > >
      >



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