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415Re: [J28Sailors] Re: yanmar diesel

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  • john power
    May 10, 2011
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      Well all I can say is I am getting quite an education as far as big boats are concerned....

      The delivery was fraught with many issues, in particular, horrible weather including fog, rain and high winds....got caught off RI in high 30s maybe 40, a bit much for a 26 yo girl, but the boat seemed to handle it beautifully.
      The biggest issue arose when we broke the transmission linkage (cable) as we were about to enter the CC Canal.....being stranded with no access to a car, or marina left us at the mercy of a mechanic to the tune of 100 per hour,
      luckily the EDSON factory is close by and it was a weekday so we could get the parts.... we also managed to suck some monofilament line into the diesel raw intake and overheat right at the breakwater to Padanarem...we rolled out the old 135 genoa to get back to a mooring and one shot of close to 30kts managed to shred that sail.......fun.

      Since buying the boat, I have to say I hope I never need a marine surveyor again. I knew the boat had had some water issues in the rudder as the previous owners had mentioned this in posts to the yahoo group.
      Also they had redone the rudder bearing.....I specifically had asked the surveyor to check these areas and he assured me they were fine. Since the provious owners seemed really upfront and meticulous about maintenance
      I took his word on this....not the case unfortunatley.   The rudder has a small split in the tip due to, I assume, freezing over the winter. (which I temporarily patched with some epoxy). The wheel, which the survey said would be better in the water, turns like the clutch is on.  The old owners paid over 3000 for this job and I have no idea why they accepted the boat back from the yard like this.  I was hoping the packing flange was over tightened...again not the case.
      The bolts on the flange can be turned with my fingers! Since the wheel is harder to turn in one direction than the other, I assume the bearing is not in line with the rudder shaft....grrrrrrrrr.

      Also while crawling in the bilge, I have noticed the throttle cable wearing thru my batter cable, exposed copper on the battery cable in the battery box, and the AC wiring was disconnected from the hot water heater and is just lying in the bilge....good thing I haven connect to shore power and hit the switch by accident.

      The surveyor was also concerned that there was the start of moisture in the decks.....I think the guy was a lunatic. I am sure all of these boats would set of some moisture meter around the chainplates and tracks, butif they are sealed up they should be solid.  IIt is clear when I percussion sound the decks there is significant delamination at the starboard chainplate.  This is at least an easy fix if i get to it before it gets any worse.

      Im finding out that I know a lot more about big boats than I thought (having only sailed dinghy and j24s for the past 25 years) 

      Also, my engine cant reach the top rpem of 3400. If I really push it, I get black smoke in the exhaust, since the fuel and all the filters and air intake are clean, the suggested problem is that the boat is overproped...

      I know this all sounds awful but there are many good things about he boat that the old owners attended to that make up for some of this headache.

      So anyhow, I am glad this group exists and that so many people are willing to share advice.  I gues my biggest priority is the rudder issues, so any advice on the job and sources for materials is appreciated.
      It looks like this job was done really badly (oh yeah, my experience with the boat yard that did it was not great either, and local friends have since told my to not use them for any boat bigger than a sonar). So looks like I will be dropping the rudder this fall.

      Thanks for all the help so far!

      On May 9, 2011, at 8:37 PM, J. Smith wrote:

      What were the issues that arose during your delivery?

      A couple of us have R&R the rudder bearing. Not a fun project. Note that our boats do not have roller bearings, but use a Delrin sleever, which the stainless collar on the rudder shaft turns. I used a material called Vesconite, in lieu of the Delrin, as it has better properties.


      From: john power <sailingmaster@...>
      Date: Fri, 06 May 2011 16:12:02 -0400
      Subject: Re: [J28Sailors] Re: yanmar diesel



      Do you just take call Mack Boring to get the class?

      Where is your boat? Mine in in Bridgeport. IM pretty new to big boats and after a rough deliver down from Marblehead I have a whole laundry list of things to fix/learn.....evidently my surveyor should take some courses too :(
      My next issue to learn about is wet rudders and rudder bearings.....might as well jump in with both feet!

      On May 6, 2011, at 2:19 PM, GO JETS wrote:

      I took the course at McMichaels as well a few years ago. It is really a gloss over of maintenance. The two day course in Union, NJ was well worth the money and you actually get your hands on an engine. Plus, the 2GM is not as popular as some of the other models, so I had the test engine all to myself.

      --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, john power <sailingmaster@...> wrote:
      > Thanks for the advice.
      > I took Larry's course at McMichael's a few weeks ago and he never 
      > brought this up. He seems like a very knowledgable guy but we really 
      > redundant in my course. Perhaps due to the people in the class, most 
      > of whom didnt seem to even work on their own engines.
      > I will follow your advice when I finally get the boat in the water. I 
      > need to get it from Marblehead Ma to W Long Island Sound so i need to 
      > make sure all is well.
      > JP
      > On Apr 1, 2011, at 11:32 AM, GO JETS wrote:
      > > I am a little crazy about my engine, especially in the spring. I 
      > > really baby it. I may over do it, but here is some extra advice.
      > >
      > > When starting in the water, be careful not to turn it over for more 
      > > than 10 seconds. You may flood the engine with water if you keep 
      > > turning it and it does not start. Not sure about the specifics of 
      > > flooding the engine, but I took a Larry Berlin course at Yanmar and 
      > > that was a big worry.
      > >
      > > To make it start fast, I do the following:
      > >
      > > 1. Charge the batteries to full charge right before turning the 
      > > engine. I figure the more turning power the better.
      > >
      > > 2. I prime the fuel line. I unscrew the fuel bleed screw above the 
      > > secondary filter and pump the manual fuel pump in the back of the 
      > > engine until some fuel comes out. This also prevents me from 
      > > forgetting to open the fuel line.
      > >
      > > 3. I use a small heater and blow it towards the engine for an hour 
      > > or two while I work on other items. This makes the engine somewhat 
      > > warm. I am careful not to directly heat one small spot of the 
      > > engine. I want the whole thing evenly warm.
      > >
      > > 4. Start your engine.
      > >
      > > It definitely is overboard, but it works for me since I usually 
      > > start it on a cold day for the first time. For three years, the 
      > > engine has turned over in under 5 seconds.
      > >
      > > If it is not turning over after 10 seconds, I'll stop and wait a few 
      > > minutes before trying again. If it is still not starting, I'll close 
      > > the sea water intake before attempting again to make sure I don't 
      > > flood the exhaust and backfill the engine with sea water.
      > >
      > > I am no expert, so I tend to go a little excessive on the normal 
      > > advice.
      > >
      > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce" <misailor@> wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Also, check your trans oil level (in the water) and coolant level.
      > > >
      > > > --- In J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com, Roy Briscoe <roysail@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > If the fuel filter, impeller and oil was changed in the fall, 
      > > put the boat in the water, open the seacock, turn it on and make 
      > > sure water comes out the exhaust.
      > > > > We put a date on the fuel filter, so we know when it was replaced.
      > > > > And watch the "dripping" from stuffing box, to make sure it 
      > > isn't too leaky.
      > > > > http://www.boatus.com/boattech/Casey/StuffingBox.htm
      > > > >
      > > > > And new zincs on the prop shaft. We had one on the boat and it 
      > > was gone when we took the boat out. Guess we will go with 2 this 
      > > year. This fall I noticed that quite a few sailboats in the yard had 
      > > 2 zincs and they weren't all used up, but any boat with just one was 
      > > gone.
      > > > >
      > > > > We have Group 27 batteries that came with the boat, but there 
      > > isn't enough room to use battery boxes with the 27s in the original 
      > > battery cubby.
      > > > >
      > > > > Roy
      > > > > #29
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > To: J28Sailors@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > From: sailingmaster@
      > > > > Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 01:52:49 +0000
      > > > > Subject: [J28Sailors] yanmar diesel
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Does anyone know where to get an owners manual (not service 
      > > book) for a yanmar 23GM?
      > > > >
      > > > > Any thoughts on commissioning for spring for a new guy?
      > > > >
      > > > > How about batteries for a J28. Group27 90amp?
      > > > >
      > > > > Thanks
      > > > >
      > > > > JP
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >

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