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Re: New to Italian

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  • Kathy
    I ll jump in for a moment to give some further guidance about the Met Underwear collection. I ve physically spent time that collection and have some quality
    Message 1 of 4 , Jun 17, 2013
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      I'll jump in for a moment to give some further guidance about the Met Underwear collection. I've physically spent time that collection and have some quality time with the accession files. I have posted a lot of details over the years on this group list, so a search on terms like "camicia" and "Met underwear", my email or either of my SCA names, Cait or Salvi, and you will find the posts. Some quick and dirty, off the top of my head info that you might find useful:

      The fall collar camicia you are referring to is not Italian. It is Sicilian, considerably different culture at the time it was made. It is accessioned as Italian because Sicily was a part of Italy at the time it was purchased in the 1950's, I think is the date.

      It's also not likely meant to be for a woman. It's unsually long for the average woman. I suspect the collection was that of a bridal couple's nightwear, much like bridal lingerie.

      It also may not be underwear, but lounge/bed clothing. Certainly not outerwear, but I didn't get as far into my research to take a serious look at female clothing in Sicily circa 1580's before I had to shelf the project.

      One cool factoid about this collection I just love to mention: It was purchased from a monastery in Sicily. Part of the collection that came with this camicia is most likely women's underwear. Men choosing not to remarry after the death of their wives and enter the monastery woulc use their worldly possessions to pay their way in, which would be sold or reused amongst the community. Somehow this collection escaped this fate.

      With all that being said and you wish to use it as your reference, there should be quite a bit of info hiding in the archives of this group. I do have highly detailed photos in print, however two things are at work: I can't share them due to copyright laws and my hard drive was wiped out that contained the digital copies. This is why I can't offer the balance of my research; it died with the photos. All I have left is what I printed for my Kalamazoo presentation.

      Hope this is useful.

      Pax,

      Salvi/Cait/Kathy

      --- In Italian_Renaissance_Costuming@yahoogroups.com, "Isabella D'Angelo" <isabelladangelo@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hello and welcome!
      >
      > The style of dress most likely to be worn with the v-neck chemise was a Turkish style gown. You can see an example by Titan here:
      >
      > http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/titian/portrait-of-a-lady
      >
      > The Turkish style was very popular amongst the noble population in Italy and you see it pop up through out the late 16th Century.
      >
      > The chemise is the barrier between the skin and the nice fabric of the dress. Since you had to wash everything by hand and sew everything by hand, you wanted to keep that silk looking nice for as long as possible without having to wash it.
      >
      > For this reason, with a doublet gown, you wore a high neck chemise - or, at least, a square neck with a high neck partlet beneath the gown.
      >
      > I hope that helps! The Turkish style is pretty easy and lots of fun. I'm making another one for Pennsic coming up so probably in the next few weeks that should be done.
      >
      > Sincerely,
      >
      > Isabella
      >
      > --- In Italian_Renaissance_Costuming@yahoogroups.com, "Diane" <bahriah@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hi folks,
      > >
      > > Thank-you for adding me to this group.
      > >
      > > I haven't done Italian before but I have fallen in love with the extant V neck embroidered Camicia from the Met Museum and have a delightful, petite lady to make it for. It will be mainly machine made, as this will be her first garb for SCA.
      > >
      > > My next question is.... would the dress show the V neck and leave it looking like a partlet, or would it have been totally covered by a high neck doublet type dress??
      > > All the lower necklines I see in portraits appear to have a squareish neckline with or without a partlet.
      > > I have a nice fine linen for the camicia and a creamy geometric self patterned silk for the dress. It is heavy dress/light upholstery weight so it will hold the shape of a doublet well, but I would love the embroidery to be seen.
      > >
      > > Thanks in advance
      > >
      > > Claricia
      > >
      >
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