Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [Italian Renaissance Costuming] Question on Florentine Bodice/Sleeves

Expand Messages
  • Alexandria Doyle
    I ve done it two ways, one was as you mentioned is to closed at the very top of the side seam and the sleeve is fully set in. This works fine for me, seam is
    Message 1 of 4 , Jul 10, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      I've done it two ways, one was as you mentioned is to closed at the
      very top of the side seam and the sleeve is fully set in. This works
      fine for me, seam is usually no more than an inch past the seam line.

      The second is to only sew the top of the sleeve to the bodice. Think
      of is as between the diamonds on a modern pattern, single diamond in
      front to double diamond in back, which is where I usually have the
      side seam starting. There's a facing to the inside of the sleeve to
      finish raw edges, and the bodice is closed to it's lining, so no raw
      edges show.

      With either method this doesn't add "pressure" or stress to the
      sleeves. with the half attachment you get more range of motion, and
      it can be cooler as well. I usually wear linen underneath the gown
      and with the gap in the heavier fashion fabric. It's amazing how a
      breeze gets in and how cooling that is.

      alex
      So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with…



      On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:28 AM, Alessandra <cmerritt923@...> wrote:
      > Hi!
      >
      > I'm just tackling my second Florentine gown, and have stalled.
      >
      > My first gown was based on the pattern I got from Alaina Blackram and was a re-creation of the gown Del Sarto's wife wore in her portrait. The sleeves were tied on.
      >
      > My problem is this. The gown I want to make now has attached sleeves. The pattern for the bodice has the side back seams laced up however. The notes and pictures I have from Alaina indicate that the sleeves are attached even with the side lacing. But I'm having a hard time figuring out how that works.
      >
      > Wouldn't that be unstable? Do you sew the entire sleeve in the armscye? That would not only close the top of the side seam, but if the side seam is open or laced, wouldn't that put a lot of pressure on the sleeve?
      >
      > I've looked in diaries and web sites, but can't find anything to help me figure this out..so if there's something out there, please point me in the right direction!!
      >
      > THANKS!!
      >
      > Alessandra
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Vandy Tune
      I use the half attached method described by Alexandria with a linen camacia underneath. The range of motion is very important to me and it is indeed a cooling
      Message 2 of 4 , Jul 10, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        I use the half attached method described by Alexandria with a linen camacia
        underneath. The range of motion is very important to me and it is indeed a
        cooling factor. I recommend it.


        La Signora Onorevole Franca Donato
        MKA Vandy Pacetti-Tune





        On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 10:07 AM, Alexandria Doyle <garbaholic@...>wrote:

        > I've done it two ways, one was as you mentioned is to closed at the
        > very top of the side seam and the sleeve is fully set in. This works
        > fine for me, seam is usually no more than an inch past the seam line.
        >
        > The second is to only sew the top of the sleeve to the bodice. Think
        > of is as between the diamonds on a modern pattern, single diamond in
        > front to double diamond in back, which is where I usually have the
        > side seam starting. There's a facing to the inside of the sleeve to
        > finish raw edges, and the bodice is closed to it's lining, so no raw
        > edges show.
        >
        > With either method this doesn't add "pressure" or stress to the
        > sleeves. with the half attachment you get more range of motion, and
        > it can be cooler as well. I usually wear linen underneath the gown
        > and with the gap in the heavier fashion fabric. It's amazing how a
        > breeze gets in and how cooling that is.
        >
        > alex
        > So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with�
        >
        >
        >
        > On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 3:28 AM, Alessandra <cmerritt923@...> wrote:
        > > Hi!
        > >
        > > I'm just tackling my second Florentine gown, and have stalled.
        > >
        > > My first gown was based on the pattern I got from Alaina Blackram and was
        > a re-creation of the gown Del Sarto's wife wore in her portrait. The sleeves
        > were tied on.
        > >
        > > My problem is this. The gown I want to make now has attached sleeves. The
        > pattern for the bodice has the side back seams laced up however. The notes
        > and pictures I have from Alaina indicate that the sleeves are attached even
        > with the side lacing. But I'm having a hard time figuring out how that
        > works.
        > >
        > > Wouldn't that be unstable? Do you sew the entire sleeve in the armscye?
        > That would not only close the top of the side seam, but if the side seam is
        > open or laced, wouldn't that put a lot of pressure on the sleeve?
        > >
        > > I've looked in diaries and web sites, but can't find anything to help me
        > figure this out..so if there's something out there, please point me in the
        > right direction!!
        > >
        > > THANKS!!
        > >
        > > Alessandra
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ------------------------------------
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
        >
        > ------------------------------------
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Antonia di B C
        ... Hear, hear! I ve used this method more than twice. It works qite well in terms of looks, and having some venting that leaves your armpits covered only
        Message 3 of 4 , Jul 10, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          On 11/07/2011 2:07 AM, Alexandria Doyle wrote:
          > The second is to only sew the top of the sleeve to the bodice. Think
          > of is as between the diamonds on a modern pattern, single diamond in
          > front to double diamond in back, which is where I usually have the
          > side seam starting. There's a facing to the inside of the sleeve to
          > finish raw edges, and the bodice is closed to it's lining, so no raw
          > edges show.
          >
          > With either method this doesn't add "pressure" or stress to the
          > sleeves. with the half attachment you get more range of motion, and
          > it can be cooler as well. I usually wear linen underneath the gown
          > and with the gap in the heavier fashion fabric. It's amazing how a
          > breeze gets in and how cooling that is.

          Hear, hear! I've used this method more than twice. It works qite well
          in terms of looks, and having some venting that leaves your armpits
          covered only with linen makes the whole thing *much* cooler and more
          comfortable.

          --
          Antonia di Benedetto Calvo
          ----------------------------------------------
          Dulce et decorum est pro patria pavlovam coxi.
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.