Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960

Expand Messages
  • Rob van der Es
    John, I agree completely with Henry here. Let the MMO do its job for a while, think you are on the right track now. Engine is performing better and better all
    Message 1 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
    • 0 Attachment
      John,

      I agree completely with Henry here.
      Let the MMO do its job for a while, think you are on the right track now.
      Engine is performing better and better all the timer, runs stronger then
      before and the smoke
      seems to be decreasing.
      Drive a bit more and see what happens.
      You can always spend your hard earned money at a shop to do what ever kind
      of engine work,
      but if you can solve the problem with some patient and some good 'ol
      MMO..Why not?

      Good luck,

      Rob

      2009/6/1 john sadowski <jsadowski@...>

      >
      >
      > Henry,
      >
      > I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of
      > the smoke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour
      > & its 98 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons
      > of gas, so its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke
      > 1 time when stepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power
      > then before.
      >
      > John
      >
      >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: Henry Blair Jr.
      > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
      > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM
      > Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
      >
      > John,
      >
      > Try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal
      > life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart
      > replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I
      > have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke
      > for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I
      > use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three
      > long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.
      >
      > Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had
      > before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten
      > running this way.
      >
      > Henry
      >
      > Henry K. Blair, Jr.
      > 4365 Butternut Way
      > Roswell, GA 30075-5225
      > (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
      > henryblairjr@... <henryblairjr%40gmail.com>
      >
      > On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...<jsadowski%40cox.net>>
      > wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to
      > be
      > > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started
      > to
      > > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy
      > > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've
      > > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that
      > > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some
      > > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was
      > nearly
      > > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those that had situations
      > like
      > > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so
      > > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs
      > better
      > > now then it has in many years.
      > >
      > > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods &
      > gaskets,
      > > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.
      > >
      > > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more
      > > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My
      > > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor
      > > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine
      > > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.
      > >
      > > John
      > >
      > >
      > > ----- Original Message -----
      > > From: Sonny Moorehouse
      > > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com><Imperial-Club%
      > 40yahoogroups.com>
      > > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM
      > > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
      > >
      > > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn
      > > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the
      > > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a
      > shop
      > > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was
      > not
      > > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low
      > > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is
      > > dying.
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >


      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Dan Gutting
      I first used MMO on a 1935 Auburn 653 with the original Lycombing 6 cyl w alum heads and pistons. I was 15 and dad had kept this project for me in a garage for
      Message 2 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
      • 0 Attachment
        I first used MMO on a 1935 Auburn 653 with the original Lycombing 6 cyl w alum heads and pistons. I was 15 and dad had kept this project for me in a garage for 12 years.

        After 3 months of pouring .5 ounce in each cyl every 2 weeks I had all the tires up at the same time and rocked it in 3rd gear. It turned without breaking anything. After 3 more weeks I had it running and when I finally pulled a piston every ring was free and clean. That was 1962 and the only thing cooler than my Auburn was a new Imperial.



        2 years ago my sons gave me a 62 4 dr MMO red crown for my 60th. It had set up about 20 years in Nb. MMO in oil and MMO in gas. Reinstalled a dropped pushrod and some wires to go from belching oil on 3 cylinders to hitting on all 8. Since then it's been miner corrections while MMO does all the work.



        I now have 2000 miles on it and it still gets better every day. I should be a testimonial for MMO. It's like Sno-Seal, It just plain works.



        Dan



        To: imperial-club@yahoogroups.com
        From: sean_713@...
        Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:11:59 -0400
        Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960








        John
        Please keep us posted on how the marvel mystery oil works,for your car
        It does wonders!!!
        If it saves a few buck on a valve job$$$
        I use it on my oil changes on all of my cars.I usually will add 8 oz to 5quarts of oil
        I had very few engine problems,and I think this has something to do with it
        Dont be afraid to add more to the gas,it burns well and wont cause noticeable smoke
        from the tail pipe.,and it will help the valves .
        walmarts has the best prices where I live,ill but it by the gallon jug,its a great all purpose lube.
        Sean

        To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
        From: jsadowski@...
        Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:56:49 -0700
        Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960

        Henry,

        I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of the smoke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour & its 98 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons of gas, so its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke 1 time when stepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power then before.

        John

        ----- Original Message -----

        From: Henry Blair Jr.

        To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com

        Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM

        Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960

        John,

        Try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal

        life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart

        replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I

        have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke

        for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I

        use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three

        long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.

        Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had

        before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten

        running this way.

        Henry

        Henry K. Blair, Jr.

        4365 Butternut Way

        Roswell, GA 30075-5225

        (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392

        henryblairjr@...

        On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...> wrote:

        >

        >

        > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to be

        > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started to

        > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy

        > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've

        > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that

        > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some

        > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was nearly

        > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those that had situations like

        > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so

        > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs better

        > now then it has in many years.

        >

        > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods & gaskets,

        > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.

        >

        > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more

        > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My

        > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor

        > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine

        > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.

        >

        > John

        >

        >

        > ----- Original Message -----

        > From: Sonny Moorehouse

        > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>

        > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM

        > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960

        >

        > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn

        > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the

        > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a shop

        > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was not

        > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low

        > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is

        > dying.

        >

        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

        >

        >

        >

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









        _________________________________________________________________
        Windows Live�: Keep your life in sync.
        http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • billimp68@aol.com
        Question, Should you use MMO in engines that are operating as they should, as a preventive measure? If so, in what quanity and how often? Bill/Imp, 68 s ...
        Message 3 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
        • 0 Attachment
          Question,

          Should you use MMO in engines that are operating as they should, as a preventive measure?
          If so, in what quanity and how often?

          Bill/Imp, 68's


          -----Original Message-----
          From: Dan Gutting <dgutting@...>
          To: imperial club <imperial-club@yahoogroups.com>; dgutting@...; preynolds@...; jonnyclean@...; cslovitt@...; lcgs57@...; jhutto111@...; myrnagutting@...; kwg7000@...; charlesslovitt@...; jawga1@...; martyjg@...
          Sent: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 6:07 pm
          Subject: [Imperial-Club] Marvel Mystery Oil




          first used MMO on a 1935 Auburn 653 with the original Lycombing 6 cyl w alum
          eads and pistons. I was 15 and dad had kept this project for me in a garage for
          2 years.
          After 3 months of pouring .5 ounce in each cyl every 2 weeks I had all the tires
          p at the same time and rocked it in 3rd gear. It turned without breaking
          nything. After 3 more weeks I had it running and when I finally pulled a piston
          very ring was free and clean. That was 1962 and the only thing cooler than my
          uburn was a new Imperial.

          2 years ago my sons gave me a 62 4 dr MMO red crown for my 60th. It had set up
          bout 20 years in Nb. MMO in oil and MMO in gas. Reinstalled a dropped pushrod
          nd some wires to go from belching oil on 3 cylinders to hitting on all 8. Since
          hen it's been miner corrections while MMO does all the work.

          I now have 2000 miles on it and it still gets better every day. I should be a =0
          Destimonial for MMO. It's like Sno-Seal, It just plain works.

          Dan


          o: imperial-club@yahoogroups.com
          rom: sean_713@...
          ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:11:59 -0400
          ubject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960




          ohn
          lease keep us posted on how the marvel mystery oil works,for your car
          t does wonders!!!
          f it saves a few buck on a valve job$$$
          use it on my oil changes on all of my cars.I usually will add 8 oz to 5quarts
          f oil
          had very few engine problems,and I think this has something to do with it
          ont be afraid to add more to the gas,it burns well and wont cause noticeable
          moke
          rom the tail pipe.,and it will help the valves .
          almarts has the best prices where I live,ill but it by the gallon jug,its a
          reat all purpose lube.
          ean
          To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
          rom: jsadowski@...
          ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:56:49 -0700
          ubject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
          Henry,
          I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of the
          moke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour & its
          8 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons of gas,
          o its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke 1 time when
          tepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power then before.
          John
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: Henry Blair Jr.
          To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM
          Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
          John,
          Try some Marv
          el Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal
          life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart
          replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I
          have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke
          for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I
          use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three
          long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.
          Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had
          before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten
          running this way.
          Henry
          Henry K. Blair, Jr.
          4365 Butternut Way
          Roswell, GA 30075-5225
          (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
          henryblairjr@...
          On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to be
          > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started to
          > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy
          > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've
          > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that
          > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some
          > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was nearly
          > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those t
          hat had situations like
          > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so
          > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs better
          > now then it has in many years.
          >
          > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods & gaskets,
          > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.
          >
          > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more
          > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My
          > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor
          > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine
          > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.
          >
          > John
          >
          >
          > ----- Original Message -----
          > From: Sonny Moorehouse
          > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
          > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM
          > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
          >
          > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn
          > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the
          > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a shop
          > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was not
          > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low
          > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is
          > dying.
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
          >
          >
          [Non-text portio
          ns of this message have been removed]
          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




          _________________________________________________________________
          indows Live™: Keep your life in sync.
          ttp://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

          ------------------------------------
          Yahoo! Groups Links
          Individual Email | Traditional
          http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • ybshore@aol.com
          Imperialist Bill, In my 55 NY er w/331 Hemi, in my 56 Imperial w/354 Hemi and in my 68 300 with a 440 do I run the MMO as a substitute for one quart of
          Message 4 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
          • 0 Attachment
            Imperialist Bill,

            In my '55 NY'er w/331 Hemi, in my '56 Imperial w/354 Hemi and in my
            '68 300 with a 440 do I run the MMO as a substitute for one quart of oil per
            recommended level at every oil change. I also use MMO in every other tank
            of gas, I believe it is 4 oz. per 10 gallons of fuel ratio, but the
            information is on the label.

            I also use it in the same manner in my 1999 GMC K-2500 Suburban which
            now has 152,000 miles on it and on which I recently performed a compression
            test which revealed each cylinder to be within 1# of each other, which is
            within less than 1% of factory specs 10 years later and it is no Mystery
            why to me....

            I recommend it highly.

            Jack


            In a message dated 6/1/2009 7:59:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
            billimp68@... writes:

            Question,

            Should you use MMO in engines that are operating as they should, as a
            preventive measure?
            If so, in what quantity and how often?

            Bill/Imp, 68's

            **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
            Steps!
            (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377040x1201454360/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun
            eExcfooterNO62)


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Henry Blair Jr.
            I have been told that Marvel Mystery Oil is really a more refined power steering fluid, but I really do not know what it is. The company is now owned by
            Message 5 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
            • 0 Attachment
              I have been told that Marvel Mystery Oil is really a more refined power
              steering fluid, but I really do not know what it is. The company is now
              owned by Turtle Wax. Use the amount listed on the can for normal use --
              replace 1 quart per oil change with MMO, and use 4 - 8 oz per 10 gallons of
              gas. If the car is not going to be driven much, use the higher limit.
              There will be no gunk in the fuel system. Also, keep an eye on fuel filters
              as they will initially need to be replaced at more frequent intervals. I
              use two in series with the first, nearest the tank, being a cheap plastic
              see-through. MMO straight out of the bottle is a great air tool lubricant.

              I have just replaced the heads on a 440 in a NYB coupe that I have. It has
              almost 100,000 miles on it. While I had the engine down, my mechanic
              checked the rod and main bearings with a Plastigage (sp?) and found them
              well within spec. I took a gamble and did not go further. The engine now
              has just a little above the original compression because I had the heads
              milled just a little to be sure they were flat. Insignificant increase when
              I added oil to the cylinders. The engine runs without any blue smoke at
              all. The original owner of the car had used MMO during the entire period he
              owned the car. I was not too concerned about the engine since I am planning
              to build a 500+ ci engine to replace it over the next two years with
              Edelbrock aluminum heads.

              I buy MMO by the case.

              Henry

              Henry K. Blair, Jr.
              4365 Butternut Way
              Roswell, GA 30075-5225
              (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
              henryblairjr@...


              On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 7:57 PM, <billimp68@...> wrote:

              >
              >
              > Question,
              >
              > Should you use MMO in engines that are operating as they should, as a
              > preventive measure?
              > If so, in what quanity and how often?
              >
              > Bill/Imp, 68's
              >
              >
              > -----Original Message-----
              > From: Dan Gutting <dgutting@... <dgutting%40hotmail.com>>
              > To: imperial club <imperial-club@yahoogroups.com<imperial-club%40yahoogroups.com>>;
              > dgutting@... <dgutting%40hotmail.com>;
              > preynolds@... <preynolds%40majorgraphicsllc.com>;
              > jonnyclean@... <jonnyclean%40gmail.com>; cslovitt@...<cslovitt%40hotmail.com>;
              > lcgs57@... <lcgs57%40aol.com>; jhutto111@...<jhutto111%40yahoo.com>;
              > myrnagutting@... <myrnagutting%40hotmail.com>; kwg7000@...<kwg7000%40yahoo.com>;
              > charlesslovitt@... <charlesslovitt%40yahoo.com>;
              > jawga1@... <jawga1%40bellsouth.net>; martyjg@...<martyjg%40gmail.com>
              > Sent: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 6:07 pm
              > Subject: [Imperial-Club] Marvel Mystery Oil
              >
              > first used MMO on a 1935 Auburn 653 with the original Lycombing 6 cyl w
              > alum
              > eads and pistons. I was 15 and dad had kept this project for me in a garage
              > for
              > 2 years.
              > After 3 months of pouring .5 ounce in each cyl every 2 weeks I had all the
              > tires
              > p at the same time and rocked it in 3rd gear. It turned without breaking
              > nything. After 3 more weeks I had it running and when I finally pulled a
              > piston
              > very ring was free and clean. That was 1962 and the only thing cooler than
              > my
              > uburn was a new Imperial.
              >
              > 2 years ago my sons gave me a 62 4 dr MMO red crown for my 60th. It had set
              > up
              > bout 20 years in Nb. MMO in oil and MMO in gas. Reinstalled a dropped
              > pushrod
              > nd some wires to go from belching oil on 3 cylinders to hitting on all 8.
              > Since
              > hen it's been miner corrections while MMO does all the work.
              >
              > I now have 2000 miles on it and it still gets better every day. I should be
              > a =0
              > Destimonial for MMO. It's like Sno-Seal, It just plain works.
              >
              > Dan
              >
              > o: imperial-club@yahoogroups.com <imperial-club%40yahoogroups.com>
              > rom: sean_713@... <sean_713%40msn.com>
              > ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:11:59 -0400
              > ubject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
              >
              > ohn
              > lease keep us posted on how the marvel mystery oil works,for your car
              > t does wonders!!!
              > f it saves a few buck on a valve job$$$
              > use it on my oil changes on all of my cars.I usually will add 8 oz to
              > 5quarts
              > f oil
              > had very few engine problems,and I think this has something to do with it
              > ont be afraid to add more to the gas,it burns well and wont cause
              > noticeable
              > moke
              > rom the tail pipe.,and it will help the valves .
              > almarts has the best prices where I live,ill but it by the gallon jug,its a
              >
              > reat all purpose lube.
              > ean
              > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
              > rom: jsadowski@... <jsadowski%40cox.net>
              > ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:56:49 -0700
              > ubject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
              > Henry,
              > I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of
              > the
              > moke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour &
              > its
              > 8 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons of
              > gas,
              > o its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke 1 time
              > when
              > tepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power then before.
              > John
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > From: Henry Blair Jr.
              > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
              > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM
              > Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
              > John,
              > Try some Marv
              > el Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal
              > life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart
              > replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I
              > have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke
              > for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I
              > use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three
              > long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.
              > Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had
              > before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten
              > running this way.
              > Henry
              > Henry K. Blair, Jr.
              > 4365 Butternut Way
              > Roswell, GA 30075-5225
              > (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
              > henryblairjr@... <henryblairjr%40gmail.com>
              > On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...<jsadowski%40cox.net>>
              > wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to
              > be
              > > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started
              > to
              > > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy
              > > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've
              > > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that
              > > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some
              > > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was
              > nearly
              > > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those t
              > hat had situations like
              > > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so
              > > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs
              > better
              > > now then it has in many years.
              > >
              > > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods &
              > gaskets,
              > > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.
              > >
              > > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more
              > > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My
              > > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor
              > > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine
              > > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.
              > >
              > > John
              > >
              > >
              > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > From: Sonny Moorehouse
              > > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com><Imperial-Club%
              > 40yahoogroups.com>
              > > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM
              > > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
              > >
              > > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn
              > > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the
              > > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a
              > shop
              > > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was
              > not
              > > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low
              > > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is
              > > dying.
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > [Non-text portio
              > ns of this message have been removed]
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              > __________________________________________________________
              > indows Live�: Keep your life in sync.
              > ttp://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > Individual Email | Traditional
              > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              >
              > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >


              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • john sadowski
              I currently have CD2 in the oil as Kenyon Had suggested. I put a little MMO in the gas back in November when I started trying to figure out what was going on
              Message 6 of 21 , Jun 1, 2009
              • 0 Attachment
                I currently have CD2 in the oil as Kenyon Had suggested. I put a little MMO in the gas back in November when I started trying to figure out what was going on with the engine. I had MMO in the oil also at that time, but after if decided it was going to try to run, I changed the oil again & added the CD2. I'm hopeful that it will recover. It sure seems like it wants to.

                John

                ----- Original Message -----
                From: Rob van der Es
                To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 12:37 AM
                Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960





                John,

                I agree completely with Henry here.
                Let the MMO do its job for a while, think you are on the right track now.
                Engine is performing better and better all the timer, runs stronger then
                before and the smoke
                seems to be decreasing.
                Drive a bit more and see what happens.
                You can always spend your hard earned money at a shop to do what ever kind
                of engine work,
                but if you can solve the problem with some patient and some good 'ol
                MMO..Why not?

                Good luck,

                Rob

                2009/6/1 john sadowski <jsadowski@...>

                >
                >
                > Henry,
                >
                > I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of
                > the smoke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour
                > & its 98 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons
                > of gas, so its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke
                > 1 time when stepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power
                > then before.
                >
                > John
                >
                >
                > ----- Original Message -----
                > From: Henry Blair Jr.
                > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
                > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM
                > Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                >
                > John,
                >
                > Try some Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal
                > life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart
                > replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I
                > have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke
                > for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I
                > use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three
                > long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.
                >
                > Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had
                > before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten
                > running this way.
                >
                > Henry
                >
                > Henry K. Blair, Jr.
                > 4365 Butternut Way
                > Roswell, GA 30075-5225
                > (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
                > henryblairjr@... <henryblairjr%40gmail.com>
                >
                > On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...<jsadowski%40cox.net>>
                > wrote:
                >
                > >
                > >
                > > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to
                > be
                > > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started
                > to
                > > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy
                > > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've
                > > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that
                > > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some
                > > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was
                > nearly
                > > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those that had situations
                > like
                > > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so
                > > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs
                > better
                > > now then it has in many years.
                > >
                > > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods &
                > gaskets,
                > > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.
                > >
                > > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more
                > > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My
                > > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor
                > > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine
                > > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.
                > >
                > > John
                > >
                > >
                > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > From: Sonny Moorehouse
                > > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com><Imperial-Club%
                > 40yahoogroups.com>
                > > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM
                > > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                > >
                > > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn
                > > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the
                > > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a
                > shop
                > > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was
                > not
                > > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low
                > > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is
                > > dying.
                > >
                > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                >
                >
                >

                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Philip Daniels
                over the years , any car i didnt drive regulary, i would idle a hot engine  and pour a small amount of mystery oil down the carb till the engine stalled. i
                Message 7 of 21 , Jun 2, 2009
                • 0 Attachment
                  over the years , any car i didnt drive regulary, i would idle a hot engine  and pour a small amount of mystery oil down the carb till the engine stalled. i never had any problems. now its possible the e.p.a. would arrest me for the smoke the car produced when re started.  years ago marvel had a injector kit for their oil to constantly inject oil when running. it was known  as a upper cylinder lubricant



                  ----- Original Message ----
                  From: Henry Blair Jr. <henryblairjr@...>
                  To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Monday, June 1, 2009 9:37:45 PM
                  Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Marvel Mystery Oil

                  I have been told that Marvel Mystery Oil is really a more refined power
                  steering fluid, but I really do not know what it is.  The company is now
                  owned by Turtle Wax.  Use the amount listed on the can for normal use --
                  replace 1 quart per oil change with MMO, and use 4 - 8 oz per 10 gallons of
                  gas.  If the car is not going to be driven much, use the higher limit.
                  There will be no gunk in the fuel system.  Also, keep an eye on fuel filters
                  as they will initially need to be replaced at more frequent intervals.  I
                  use two in series with the first, nearest the tank, being a cheap plastic
                  see-through.  MMO straight out of the bottle is a great air tool lubricant.

                  I have just replaced the heads on a 440 in a NYB coupe that I have.  It has
                  almost 100,000 miles on it.  While I had the engine down, my mechanic
                  checked the rod and main bearings with a Plastigage (sp?) and found them
                  well within spec.  I took a gamble and did not go further.  The engine now
                  has just a little above the original compression because I had the heads
                  milled just a little to be sure they were flat.  Insignificant increase when
                  I added oil to the cylinders.  The engine runs without any blue smoke at
                  all.  The original owner of the car had used MMO during the entire period he
                  owned the car.  I was not too concerned about the engine since I am planning
                  to build a 500+ ci engine to replace it over the next two years with
                  Edelbrock aluminum heads.

                  I buy MMO by the case.

                  Henry

                  Henry K. Blair, Jr.
                  4365 Butternut Way
                  Roswell, GA  30075-5225
                  (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
                  henryblairjr@...


                  On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 7:57 PM, <billimp68@...> wrote:

                  >
                  >
                  > Question,
                  >
                  > Should you use MMO in engines that are operating as they should, as a
                  > preventive measure?
                  > If so, in what quanity and how often?
                  >
                  > Bill/Imp, 68's
                  >
                  >
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: Dan Gutting <dgutting@... <dgutting%40hotmail.com>>
                  > To: imperial club <imperial-club@yahoogroups.com<imperial-club%40yahoogroups.com>>;
                  > dgutting@... <dgutting%40hotmail.com>;
                  > preynolds@... <preynolds%40majorgraphicsllc.com>;
                  > jonnyclean@... <jonnyclean%40gmail.com>; cslovitt@...<cslovitt%40hotmail.com>;
                  > lcgs57@... <lcgs57%40aol.com>; jhutto111@...<jhutto111%40yahoo.com>;
                  > myrnagutting@... <myrnagutting%40hotmail.com>; kwg7000@...<kwg7000%40yahoo.com>;
                  > charlesslovitt@... <charlesslovitt%40yahoo.com>;
                  > jawga1@... <jawga1%40bellsouth.net>; martyjg@...<martyjg%40gmail.com>
                  > Sent: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 6:07 pm
                  > Subject: [Imperial-Club] Marvel Mystery Oil
                  >
                  > first used MMO on a 1935 Auburn 653 with the original Lycombing 6 cyl w
                  > alum
                  > eads and pistons. I was 15 and dad had kept this project for me in a garage
                  > for
                  > 2 years.
                  > After 3 months of pouring .5 ounce in each cyl every 2 weeks I had all the
                  > tires
                  > p at the same time and rocked it in 3rd gear. It turned without breaking
                  > nything. After 3 more weeks I had it running and when I finally pulled a
                  > piston
                  > very ring was free and clean. That was 1962 and the only thing cooler than
                  > my
                  > uburn was a new Imperial.
                  >
                  > 2 years ago my sons gave me a 62 4 dr MMO red crown for my 60th. It had set
                  > up
                  > bout 20 years in Nb. MMO in oil and MMO in gas. Reinstalled a dropped
                  > pushrod
                  > nd some wires to go from belching oil on 3 cylinders to hitting on all 8.
                  > Since
                  > hen it's been miner corrections while MMO does all the work.
                  >
                  > I now have 2000 miles on it and it still gets better every day. I should be
                  > a =0
                  > Destimonial for MMO. It's like Sno-Seal, It just plain works.
                  >
                  > Dan
                  >
                  > o: imperial-club@yahoogroups.com <imperial-club%40yahoogroups.com>
                  > rom: sean_713@... <sean_713%40msn.com>
                  > ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:11:59 -0400
                  > ubject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                  >
                  > ohn
                  > lease keep us posted on how the marvel mystery oil works,for your car
                  > t does wonders!!!
                  > f it saves a few buck on a valve job$$$
                  > use it on my oil changes on all of my cars.I usually will add 8 oz to
                  > 5quarts
                  > f oil
                  > had very few engine problems,and I think this has something to do with it
                  > ont be afraid to add more to the gas,it burns well and wont cause
                  > noticeable
                  > moke
                  > rom the tail pipe.,and it will help the valves .
                  > almarts has the best prices where I live,ill but it by the gallon jug,its a
                  >
                  > reat all purpose lube.
                  > ean
                  > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
                  > rom: jsadowski@... <jsadowski%40cox.net>
                  > ate: Sun, 31 May 2009 16:56:49 -0700
                  > ubject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                  > Henry,
                  > I had put about a half quart in with the gas. Perhaps, that's the source of
                  > the
                  > moke? Its does seem to be decreasing. I just out for about half an hour &
                  > its
                  > 8 degrees here at the moment. I was able to add almost 5 more gallons of
                  > gas,
                  > o its getting closer to being fresh.I only got a big cloud of smoke 1 time
                  > when
                  > tepping on it. The engine is far quieter & has much more power then before.
                  > John
                  > ----- Original Message -----
                  > From: Henry Blair Jr.
                  > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com>
                  > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 3:02 PM
                  > Subject: Re: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                  > John,
                  > Try some Marv
                  > el Mystery Oil in the crankcase. It has given new valve seal
                  > life to many engines that I have started after a long sleep. A quart
                  > replacing a quart of regular oil in your next change should work fine. I
                  > have also used MMO in old gas as a cleaner. It may give you a little smoke
                  > for a while, but it will clean the intake ports and combustion chambers. I
                  > use 1 quart per 10 gallons of gas. That is a lot, but I have fixed three
                  > long idle Dodge motor homes this way and a number of Mopar cars.
                  > Don't worry about the blue smoke yet, since it is decreasing. I wish I had
                  > before and after pictures of the exhaust of some of the junk I have gotten
                  > running this way.
                  > Henry
                  > Henry K. Blair, Jr.
                  > 4365 Butternut Way
                  > Roswell, GA 30075-5225
                  > (770) 783-1130, (770) 998-4897, Cell (770) 827-7392
                  > henryblairjr@... <henryblairjr%40gmail.com>
                  > On Sun, May 31, 2009 at 4:34 PM, john sadowski <jsadowski@...<jsadowski%40cox.net>>
                  > wrote:
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > If I had that kind of money lying around that was looking for a place to
                  > be
                  > > spent, I would have had a rebuild done back in November when this started
                  > to
                  > > unfold. However, its been a very bad year & I'm obviously looking to buy
                  > > time. Although a complete rebuild should cure all of its problems, I've
                  > > gotten the impression that many here share my feeling that an engine that
                  > > runs OK doesn't just up & die from sitting unused for a few months. Some
                  > > things have gone wrong due to the gas being old & since the tank was
                  > nearly
                  > > full still has quite a bit of old gas in it. Those t
                  > hat had situations like
                  > > mine & shared what they did seemed to produce good results for them & so
                  > > far, has greatly helped me. Other then some blue smoke, the car runs
                  > better
                  > > now then it has in many years.
                  > >
                  > > Thus far, I've spent $135 for the carb rebuild, $50 for pushrods &
                  > gaskets,
                  > > $70 for plug wires & about $50 more in misc.
                  > >
                  > > Now that I've gotten to know my neighbor a bit, I may be able to get more
                  > > done. The timing hasn't been set on the car in at least 25 years. My
                  > > neighbor is going to take care of that, since he also does distributor
                  > > rebuilding. He recently bought a 66 Dodge Dart & is having the engine
                  > > rebuilt in that, so he has a source for that as well.
                  > >
                  > > John
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > ----- Original Message -----
                  > > From: Sonny Moorehouse
                  > > To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com <Imperial-Club%40yahoogroups.com><Imperial-Club%
                  > 40yahoogroups.com>
                  > > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:29 PM
                  > > Subject: RE: [Imperial-Club] Stuck valve 1960
                  > >
                  > > It is called a valve job. Hitting it with a hammer will not repair a worn
                  > > valve guide or weak springs or damaged valve seats or valves. And by the
                  > > sound of things you need to rebuild the engine. You should take it to a
                  > shop
                  > > and get an expert opinion. Good Luck. The engine is 50 years old and was
                  > not
                  > > designed to run on today's fuel unleaded fuel is very bad along with low
                  > > octane it is like feeding your Imperial poison. Then wondering why it is
                  > > dying.
                  > >
                  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > [Non-text portio
                  > ns of this message have been removed]
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  > __________________________________________________________
                  > indows Live™: Keep your life in sync.
                  > ttp://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >
                  > ------------------------------------
                  > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  > Individual Email | Traditional
                  > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  >
                  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                  >

                  >


                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



                  ------------------------------------

                  Yahoo! Groups Links
                • dansgarage@roadrunner.com
                  Hi All...I remember my father telling me that MMO was good for everything from loosening frozen nuts to cleaning out engines (and lots of stuff in between!)!
                  Message 8 of 21 , Jun 3, 2009
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Hi All...I remember my father telling me that MMO was good for everything from loosening frozen nuts to cleaning out engines (and lots of stuff in between!)! He also used to (on a semi-regular basis) dribble water into the carb while the engine was running and he was 'goosing' the throttle linkage! The clouds of smoke coming out the back he would say was the carbon built up in the engine and the water was loosening it up and getting it to blow out the exhaust. Don't know if this was true or not but I do know that the car would run lots smoother afterwards! I used to do the same thing on an old '63 Bonneville I had as well as on my old '66 Imperial 'daily driver' back in the '70's.
                    ...Is this one of those 'urban legends' or is there some truth and scientific fact in this??!
                    Dan Melnik

                    ---- Philip Daniels <firedome8@...> wrote:

                    =============

                    over the years , any car i didnt drive regulary, i would idle a hot engine  and pour a small amount of mystery oil down the carb till the engine stalled. i never had any problems. now its possible the e.p.a. would arrest me for the smoke the car produced when re started.  years ago marvel had a injector kit for their oil to constantly inject oil when running. it was known  as a upper cylinder lubricant
                  • randalpark@aol.com
                    I am familiar with this idea. The cautionary part would be that the temperature of the combustion chamber is very high. Pouring a cold solution down the carb
                    Message 9 of 21 , Jun 3, 2009
                    • 0 Attachment
                      I am familiar with this idea. The cautionary part would be that the temperature of the combustion chamber is very high. Pouring a cold solution down the carb can do more damage (crack pistons, ruin valves, damage head gaskets, etc.) than it can correct. The directions on these treatments specifically use the word "slowly". I wouldn't mix water with anything unless directed to do so by the product manufacturer.

                      For me, the best remedy for carbon is to do everything possible to prevent it in the first place, such as using good quality fuel, drive the car on the freeway once in a while at highway speeds for 30 or 40 miles, and not running the engine?too often without driving the car. To reduce the existing carbon build up,?driving the car on a long drive at reasonable highway speeds gradually burns it away. A good day trip will work wonders.

                      Paul W.


                      -----Original Message-----
                      From: dansgarage@...
                      To: Imperial-Club@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:06 am
                      Subject: [Imperial-Club] Re: Marvel Mystery Oil & water








                      Hi All...I remember my father telling me that MMO was good for everything from loosening frozen nuts to cleaning out engines (and lots of stuff in between!)! He also used to (on a semi-regular basis) dribble water into the carb while the engine was running and he was 'goosing' the throttle linkage! The clouds of smoke coming out the back he would say was the carbon built up in the engine and the water was loosening it up and getting it to blow out the exhaust. Don't know if this was true or not but I do know that the car would run lots smoother afterwards! I used to do the same thing on an old '63 Bonneville I had as well as on my old '66 Imperial 'daily driver' back in the '70's.
                      ...Is this one of those 'urban legends' or is there some truth and scientific fact in this??!
                      Dan Melnik

                      ---- Philip Daniels <firedome8@...> wrote:

                      =============

                      over the years , any car i didnt drive regulary, i would idle a hot engine? and pour a small amount of mystery oil down the carb till the engine stalled. i never had any problems. now its possible the e.p.a. would arrest me for the smoke the car produced when re started.? years ago marvel had a injector kit for their oil to constantly inject oil when running. it was known? as a upper cylinder lubricant







                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • Sonny Moorehouse
                      You are on mark. The worst thing to do is to just drive around town the old lady owned never driven hard is actually one of the worst fates for the engine. The
                      Message 10 of 21 , Jun 3, 2009
                      • 0 Attachment
                        You are on mark. The worst thing to do is to just drive around town the old lady owned never driven hard is actually one of the worst fates for the engine. The only way to truly keep an engine clear of harmful carbon deposits is to put the pedal down and open that baby up I am not saying to speed or break the law but I am saying to get to the legal limit fast get the air flowing and the reciprocating assembly's spinning and the valves pumping and make sure it is a long drive, at least an hour get things up to operating temperatures and keep them there. it is amazing how rejuvenating this can be to an engine and transmission not to mention the owner. And if you do this every time you take your Imperial friend out you and the Imperial will be very happy. Remember Imperials were designed to be driven and enjoyed.

                        Sincerly Sonny Moorehouse


                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Craig @ Cadillac Craft Center
                        Thats a known trick - although now we use Top End Cleaner or SeaFoam for the same effect. What it does is attract the carbon particles and blow them out as
                        Message 11 of 21 , Jun 3, 2009
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Thats a known trick - although now we use Top End Cleaner or SeaFoam for the
                          same effect. What it does is attract the carbon particles and blow them out
                          as well as other residuals that might be in the system. I am currently
                          trying to nurse a sticking lifter with MMO.

                          Craig M. Séman
                          Cadillac Craft Center
                          Midland, NC
                          www.cadillaccraftcenter.com <http://www.cadillaccraftcenter.com/>

                          Hi All...I remember my father telling me that MMO was good for everything
                          from loosening frozen nuts to cleaning out engines (and lots of stuff in
                          between!)! He also used to (on a semi-regular basis) dribble water into the
                          carb while the engine was running and he was 'goosing' the throttle linkage!
                          The clouds of smoke coming out the back he would say was the carbon built up
                          in the engine and the water was loosening it up and getting it to blow out
                          the exhaust. Don't know if this was true or not but I do know that the car
                          would run lots smoother afterwards! I used to do the same thing on an old
                          '63 Bonneville I had as well as on my old '66 Imperial 'daily driver' back
                          in the '70's.
                          ...Is this one of those 'urban legends' or is there some truth and
                          scientific fact in this??!


                          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.