slippy clutch ?
- So i just received my new clutches and metal rings in the mail...ive been dealing with clutch slip issues...so i measured with my micrometer..the new ones are slightly thinner than the ones i have been using..i will say however the old metal rings are visually worn..so i guess im wondering would the old visually worn rings be my slippage culprit ? ..im also concerned about it possibly being the ND oil im using...i can only find shell or napa brands ND oil and theyre kinda cheap..thet look like mineral oil . clear...my second question is..should i switch to type F tranny fluid ? ..ty all..btw i have 82 and 83 250s
- Type F Auto Transmission oil works well. F stands for FASTYou might also check your tightness setting on this clutch as it sounds as though you have everything too tight.John H-----Original Message-----
From: mandex12000@... [HuskyOwners] <HuskyOwners@yahoogroups.com>
To: HuskyOwners <HuskyOwners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Apr 28, 2017 1:42 pm
Subject: [HuskyOwners] slippy clutch ?
So i just received my new clutches and metal rings in the mail...ive been dealing with clutch slip issues...so i measured with my micrometer..the new ones are slightly thinner than the ones i have been using..i will say however the old metal rings are visually worn..so i guess im wondering would the old visually worn rings be my slippage culprit ? ..im also concerned about it possibly being the ND oil im using...i can only find shell or napa brands ND oil and theyre kinda cheap..thet look like mineral oil . clear...my second question is..should i switch to type F tranny fluid ? ..ty all..btw i have 82 and 83 250s
How much thinner is “slightly”thinner?
The springs could be worn out,that will help cause slipping.Usually a combination of factors tho.
You can get higher rate springs also.But Husky’s already have a strong pull.
I always scuff the plates up with a flat plate and 400 sandpaper if I reuse them.(Shouldn’t have to with new ones)
There’s a lot of talk about ATF.I have never used ATF.I use Bel-Ray 80 wt.37 years same bike.No clutch issues.Maybe better for the clutch,but I prefer my gears get lubrication.
As far as the center thrust bearing adjuster,first loosen the clutch perch(handlebar)adjuster,and the center thrust adjuster
should have a small amount of play.(The plates need to fully seat together by the spring pressure),and allows for the plates to wear.(I don’t remember how much but 1/16(.0625) will be good)Just make sure it has some play(clutch fully assembled).
Also at the clutch perch it should have a little play before it disengages.Those plates need to be fully seated by the springs.And lube the cable while you have it apart.(I rubber band a baggie with lube and hang it up to drain thru the cable)All these things together are the reasons a clutch will slip.(or not)
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any tips or tricks im going to be putting them together this week ..any instructions would help
- Ty so much..those tips will def help me...im curious is the bellray 80 oil you use a non detergent oil..could you possibly send a pic of product ? I have always thought the type f and even the nd oil i use is really thin
Ty very much
- I recommend Maxima MTL 75 for transmission oil.
It is specifically designed for motorcycle transmission use.
I have used the non-detergent NAPA 30wt oil before.
I think it is ok if you change it frequently.
The last time I used it, I ran the bike for about 10 hours trail riding.
(Too long I know.) When I drained it, the oil had separated into a thick dark sludge
and a thin clear layer. Didn't look like it was protecting anything anymore!
I think the gears just beat it to a pulp.
I haven't used the BelRay 80, but if it is designed for moto transmission use
I would bet it is similar to the MTL.
I wouldn't be surprised if 80wt tranny oil is comparable to 30wt SAE motor oil.
They use different viscosity scales for different types of oil. The MTL75 might be
slightly thicker than 30wt motor oil, but similar.
MTL is about $8/liter and worth it in my book.
Husky calls for 1.6 Liters in the manual.
I run 1 liter on advice from a Husky old timer who says the it reduces
leaking out the breather. If using MTL, he says the bike will be fine.
BTW I am running a 76WR250 and 83XC250.
For what it is worth. . . .
- sorry this is so long but getting the clutch right is complex:Regardless of type of plates and oil (ATF works great) and amount of wear, in my experience clutch slipping is most always resolved by how you adjust the spring tension, along with making sure you have enough play in the cable and push rod as already explained.Spring tension is a common problem and question on old bikes (many brands) where you set the spring tension on the pressure plate by hand and then bend the lock tabs to hold the nuts.I don't know of any spec for how far to turn the nuts down, since depending on how much the plates are worn, or whether you have stock or Barnett plates, the thickness of the "stack" of plates varies, as does the age and wear of the springs, so you have to adjust accordingly.So I've found it easiest to adjust the spring tension going by the feel at the lever. With a good cable and lever you should be able to adjust it to a light but firm pull. You just have to experiment. Adjust the nuts until it feels right, then ride it. You'll know if you loosen them too far, if the clutch slips. If the pull is too hard, try loosening them 1/2 turn at a time.I set mine to be moderately firm with one finger, but comfortable with 2 fingers.Each readjustment is kind of a pain on these old bikes where you have to pull the side case each time, but once you get a feel, you can get it first time most every time before even test riding it.I also recommend nylon lined or Terry cables, with newer style dog leg, or Amal levers. The original Maguras are a little harder pull.*** a nice tip from OSSA manuals is to check that the pressure plate runs flat or level. With the case still off, hold in the clutch (you can use a rubber band, tie down, or zip tie to hold in the lever) and use the kicker to spin the engine. Check to see if the pressure plate wobbles, or spins flat and evenly. If it wobbles adjust the springs accordingly. This helps to get a nice smooth clutch disengagement and even wear.Let me know how it goes. Robert
- When i say thinner i mean this..i measured the new plates with a micrometer from fiber to fiber..now i dont really know how to read the mic but i got a 1.10 reading on new plates...the old plates read about 1.13..just a bit thicker
- When you refer to tightness of "nuts" are you refering to the 5 on the basket ?..i always hand tighten (with wrench)with locktite to a tightness i feel comfortable that they wont spin out...i always thought these are supposed to be tightened in pretty hard
- Hey sorry bout all the questions..im leaning towards the rod adjustment..so im looking through my manuals..im getting conflicting instructions...one says 5-8mm free play on clutch arm..the other says 10-13mm free play...im guessing if i go 8-10 i should be safe..haha kidding...but seriously...i think im going with 5-8mm...and ty again guys this group has been invaluable
- The best solution I saw in one of the WR engines was that someone put bottoming sleeve over the spring posts to put the correct tension on the clutch springs. Consistent every time and works best under new springs. They do sag with age.
On May 1, 2017 at 12:38 PM "mandex12000@... [HuskyOwners]" <HuskyOwners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
When you refer to tightness of "nuts" are you refering to the 5 on the basket ?..i always hand tighten (with wrench)with locktite to a tightness i feel comfortable that they wont spin out...i always thought these are supposed to be tightened in pretty hard
- I got them both working great...apparently one of the old clutch plates was coming apart and there was some metal between plate and basket causing the slip and a slight wear/pit...anyways..working great now...ty all