Re: Another wannabe Direct printer
> Anyway I have convereted a C84 Epson to print on some thin copperclad
> I am very disapointed in the results I have major pitting on theYou missed curing. You have to cure the ink at the temperature
> etched PCB.
> I am using the genuine Durabrite inks.
> I have tried yellow magenta and cyan even tried black.
> yellow looked best but still not even usable.
> Tried pre-etching + Preheating.
> Tried FeCl and Sodium Persulfate.
Without curing, it just washes off as you have seen.
> Why do the color inks not laydown solid like the black they have anThat seems to happen to most people and it doesn't matter. Volkan is
> orangepeel texture? Black looks solid but doesnt hold up.
> All inks look solid when printed on paper.
the only person I am aware of who has been able to get it to print
without the texture. The texture doesn't seem to hurt anything.
> I think if I could get yellow to cover like the black it wouldMagenta seems to have the reputation for the best resist after
curing, but I believe there has been some success with other colors.
> I tried to use the durabrite ink as a blocker and tinplate and use
> tin as the etch resist but the durabrite didnt even holdup to theITP
> plating.Again, curing is a critical step.
> Oh well enough rambling throw in your input or questions and I'llkeep
> plugging away.black
> I may settle for using this to print NEGs for the dry film the
> on transparencys is way better than I expected that would speedthings
> up I wouldnt have to wait for the NEGs to be made.A number of people have reported success with that.
> I will try and post some pictures Sunday.I alway appreciate seeing the pictures, and a description of what we
are looking at would be even better.
> LaterJames Newton
- You have to cure the ink before you etch. 230C to 240C works best for
me. If you preheat you should get the ink to look perfectly smooth
after printing. If you look in the photos section you can see that it
works extremely well if done correctly.
- <jamesmichaelnewton@...> wrote:
> You missed curing. You have to cure the ink at the temperatureOpps yes just in the post though I have been curing the pcbs tried
the oven at 200deg for 1 hr and right on the flat cooktop at semi low
until the pcb started to discolor.
> > orangepeel texture? Black looks solid but doesnt hold up.Ok I thought that the pit patterns kinda looked like what I was
> That seems to happen to most people and it doesn't matter.
seeing in the ink so assumed it had something to do with it.
I havent had much time to play the last few days I do think that
using irfanview for my conversions seems to make the fill better
but I havent had a chance to test it.
> > I tried to use the durabrite ink as a blocker and tinplate andthinking out loud what about a ink that doesnt cure until exposed to
uv I am sure they make them just finding the right one.
I was even thinking about some kinda lacqure and flushing the heads
after each use if I could figure out a solvent that wouldnt damage
Anyone know how much plastic touches the ink after the spike and
what kinda chemical resistance it has?
> I alway appreciate seeing the pictures, and a description of whatI will get them I main computer is tied up crunching so I am stuck
> we are looking at would be even better.
with the laptop for right now.
- --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "wnnelson0" <wnnelson@...> wrote:
>WOW thats alot hotter than I was going.
> You have to cure the ink before you etch. 230C to 240C works best for
Do you bake it at that temp? For how long?
> If you preheat you should get the ink to look perfectly smoothI tried this but I think my method was useless by the time I ran from
the oven to the printer I think it had totally cooled. I'll try again
with a refined method.
> after printing. If you look in the photos section you can see that itI have seen some VERY nice looking results thats why I JUMPED on the
> works extremely well if done correctly.
band wagon. I just am not seeing them yet I dont give up easy though.
Thanks for the input.
- Ok I went and looked at the pics again and yet I am doing something
First nice mods on your printer.
I am using a c84 BTW dont know if I said that before.
A few more questions popped in my head.
How much do you preheat your boards before printing?
How long do you cure them?
What paper settings and quality settings?
and where is the file for that test board?
I am sure theres more I am gonna spend some more time reading
then try again.
- I use a small heat-gun to preheat the board to about 75C. This heating is done on the feed tray
and carrier so it is ready to go when I hit the print button. I actually continue to heat while it
is printing if it is a long board. You have to be careful to not melt the plastic on the back of
the printer, ask me how I know. The cure time is the same as Stefan's about 3 minutes until the
board is somewhat oxidized, slightly purple. I think most people are using matte paper setting
with best photo. Is there is another setting which gives a better dot pattern but is is a lot
slower. The board gets to cold using that setting. I'm not sure what you mean by " where is the
- --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
>Ok I can do that.
> I use a small heat-gun to preheat the board to about 75C.
After reading more last night I think you guys were right I wasnt
cureing the ink but just drying it real well at 200 deg F. I think
these two changes will help alot.
>you mean by " where is the file".The file that the boards in your photo section were made from.
It says something like epson magenta t0623 and has a bunch of
- I just made up that board in Eagle just for testing, I did not post the actual file. Anything will
do. You need to crank up the heat to about 450F.
- --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "kpyro2" <justnoone@...> wrote:
>HI TO ALL
> Ok I went and looked at the pics again and yet I am doing something
> wrong. Duh!
> First nice mods on your printer.
> I am using a c84 BTW dont know if I said that before.
> A few more questions popped in my head.
> How much do you preheat your boards before printing?
> How long do you cure them?
> What paper settings and quality settings?
> and where is the file for that test board?
> I am sure theres more I am gonna spend some more time reading
> then try again.
a questions regarding this subject pls:
Reading an article one of this days on this subject, the author
mentioned we was able to feed ( on a NON MECHANICALLY MODIFIED EPSON),
a pcb material ( obtained from E-bay ) with a thickness of (0.005" /
I spent quite some time trying to identify a source for this material,
as it will be perfect to my application, especially if I could avoid
the delicate work of printer modification.
So far I have not found any source for it on any country.
could anybody help please?????
Thanks in advance