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riveting

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  • John Stutz
    Very nice work jc But I could not quite interpret the photo of your riveting setup. What are you using for a die, and how do you control spacing? John Stutz
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 2, 2013
      Very nice work jc

      But I could not quite interpret the photo of your riveting setup. What are you
      using for a die, and how do you control spacing?

      John Stutz
    • jc
      John-My riveting tool is far from precision. I purchased it at O scale west from the late Jerry Snow years ago. I really liked its size because it had enough
      Message 2 of 3 , Jul 2, 2013
        John-My riveting tool is far from precision. I purchased it at O scale west
        from the late Jerry Snow years ago. I really liked its size because it had
        enough travel on the "X" table to allow embossing of larger On3 project. I
        had been working with the NWSL for years, and was always frustrated when the
        table ran out of travel in the middle of the project.

        The table's "X" travel is controlled with a lever that has an adjustment
        screw. The adjustment screw is either driven in or out to change the travel
        between rivets. The Lever is not precision and the travel can vary depending
        on the amount of force used to push down the lever....Yet, the tolerances
        are small enough to be forgiving (Especially in Hon3).

        I first start by scribing lines on the area I plan to emboss rivets, align
        the lines with the embossing tool on the "X" table, hold the part down with
        tape, and go at it. The more difficult issue is when you have two row of
        rivets as on the K-27's smoke box. Not only do you have to align the Y
        location of the second line (Second row of rivets), but each rivet in the
        second row must also be aligned by eye to make sure you emboss it in the
        proper "X" location. Because the table's travel varies by the forced used
        on the lever, you cannot depend on the table's lever to place you in the
        proper location.....Patience is a virtue at this point.

        The embossing part of the tool, is actually from an English rivet tool I
        also purchased at O scale West. The English tool had better tooling, and an
        embossing lever with an adjustable stop to provide controlled embossments.
        Yet, it did not have an "X" table. Jerry's riveter not only had the "X"
        table, but was also better for larger projects. I grabbed what I like from
        both, and morphed it to what I have today.

        Unfortunately neither of these table had the X and Y adjustment, so I always
        have to realign the part for every "Y" location I intend to emboss rivets.
        I have fabricated tenders, smoke boxes, and fireboxes with it, and have been
        very happy with the results. Yes I would like a more precise table, but
        every time I begin to add up the cost, I feel mine is good enough.

        I have a feeling I wrote more than you probably wanted to know. But I hope
        I answered your question (LOL)

        jc


        .
      • John Stutz
        jc Thanks for your answer on rivet embossing. I have a homebuilt rivet embosser based on a very old MR article (by Bill Traub?), but I have only used a depth
        Message 3 of 3 , Jul 3, 2013
          jc

          Thanks for your answer on rivet embossing. I have a homebuilt rivet embosser
          based on a very old MR article (by Bill Traub?), but I have only used a depth
          adjustable guide to slide stock sideways. This works well enough with brass
          dies notched to allow each rivet to set the spacing to the next, but lines will
          drift a bit as to length. I have been looking at the MicroMark drill press XY
          table, and form what you say, this will be the way to go.

          John Stutz
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