Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [HOn3] Re: EBT 2-6-2 #11 motor issue

Expand Messages
  • roundbellrr
    The Hallmark EBT 2-6-2, and 2-8-2 s were all fabulous models and came equipped with Sagami can motors. The bigger models were equipped with the 1630 which have
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 21, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      The Hallmark EBT 2-6-2, and 2-8-2's were all fabulous models and came
      equipped with Sagami can motors. The bigger models were equipped with the 1630
      which have good slow speed but at least the #11 2-6-2 and the #12 2-8-2 had
      smaller Sagami's that don't have nearly as good a low speed. The Sagami
      1225 and 1230 motors used in the Key and PSC 2-6-0's, 2-8-0's and 4-6-0's have
      very high starting speeds. That is why I have standardized in coreless
      Faulhaber motors to get very slow and smooth starting in these locos.
      While over the years I have examined these Hallmark EBT engines,
      they were studied so long ago that I don't remember which motors were used in
      which engines and I have not installed the 1319 Faulhaber in any of these
      locos. I think the 1319T7.7K motor would be big enough to repower the #11
      2-6-2, I think it might be marginally powerful enough to repower the #12
      2-8-2 . The 1331T11K would be plenty powerful enough for any of these models
      if you have the length in the boiler.
      All of the motors in this size range have 1.5 mm shafts.
      Samhongsa models virtually always have the worms pressed on the shafts, not
      soldered. LocoDoc

      In a message dated 3/21/2013 6:08:55 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
      marowicz@... writes:


      Installing DCC in a loco with running issues will not fix them. Remotoring
      is not as difficult as it might seem. I do not know this particular
      locomotive but most can motors have fixing centres and shaft diameters in common
      and you'll probably find that something like a Mashima will drop straight
      in. You need to check the shaft diameter which will either be 1.5 or 2.0 mm,
      probably the latter. Then it will be a case of unsoldering first the
      wires, then unscrewing the motor and unsoldering the worm gear (might by held on
      with a grub screw but not usually.) Easiest way to do thisis in the jaws
      of a resistance soldering unit, the motor just drops off. But a 50 watt or
      so soldering iron will also do the trick.
      The person to talk to is Wayne Weiss aka Locodoc, He's got motors. And
      provided you're happy with dismantling the loco and doing a little soldering
      then the task in not daunting whatsoever - about an hours work if that.

      Mark K

      --- In _HOn3@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:HOn3@yahoogroups.com) , "George
      Pierson" <George.Pierson@...> wrote:
      But I'm wondering if any of you have successfully changed out the original
      motor for a better quality coreless motor or some such. What I'd like is
      smooth low-speed operation.
      > Thanks!
      > George Pierson

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.