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Re: EBT 2-6-2 #11 motor issue

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  • Michael Greene
    George, I ll pose the obvious questions....before changing out the motor have you checked the obvious things such as binding in the mechanism? If you remove
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 21, 2013
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      George,
      I'll pose the obvious questions....before changing out the motor have you checked the obvious things such as binding in the mechanism? If you remove the motor, can you push the mechanism across a sheet of plate glass, or granite with all axles and valve gear turning? Something as simple as a stuck bearing, or bad spring can cause a bind that would hinder slow speed operation. Has the loco been run at varying speeds forward and reverse for a period of time to "run it in"? Is the worm/idler gears mesh clearance correct? For your consideration as a new motor will likely not solve or overcome them.
      Cheers,
      Michael
      Boalsburg, PA

      Michael Greene
      prrk4@...
    • broadtopper1
      George: I have a #11 5 yrs ago I installed a dynatrol reciever in it. It ran fine for a short while then died. I still haven t replaced the motor but will soon
      Message 2 of 5 , Mar 21, 2013
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        George: I have a #11 5 yrs ago I installed a dynatrol reciever in it. It ran fine for a short while then died. I still haven't replaced the motor but will soon as the rest of the fleet are converted from standard DCC to sound.the thing I found was the universal was slightly out of line.this seamed to be causing a hitch in its gitty up.
        The other halmark models all run fine.
        I have worked on other #11's and as long as it was on dc only it ran smooth. Once changed to dcc it developed a hitch at slow speed .never did completlyget it to run smoothly. just put it on the round house track and left it there.
        Mine is still sitting in pieces in a box.I don't think it will ever get put back together. as it was probably the worst loco for pulling I have ever owned.
        I bought it because it was EBT.
        Good luck with your remotorpost what motor you use please and I may get 1 to at last have in house if the urge ever hits to rebuild it. Thanks Ric Case


        ----- Original Message -----

        From: "George Pierson" <George.Pierson@...>
        To: HOn3@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:10:46 PM
        Subject: [HOn3] EBT 2-6-2 #11 motor issue

         



        Hi, guys,
        Thanks!

        George Pierson





        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • roundbellrr
        The Hallmark EBT 2-6-2, and 2-8-2 s were all fabulous models and came equipped with Sagami can motors. The bigger models were equipped with the 1630 which have
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 21, 2013
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          The Hallmark EBT 2-6-2, and 2-8-2's were all fabulous models and came
          equipped with Sagami can motors. The bigger models were equipped with the 1630
          which have good slow speed but at least the #11 2-6-2 and the #12 2-8-2 had
          smaller Sagami's that don't have nearly as good a low speed. The Sagami
          1225 and 1230 motors used in the Key and PSC 2-6-0's, 2-8-0's and 4-6-0's have
          very high starting speeds. That is why I have standardized in coreless
          Faulhaber motors to get very slow and smooth starting in these locos.
          While over the years I have examined these Hallmark EBT engines,
          they were studied so long ago that I don't remember which motors were used in
          which engines and I have not installed the 1319 Faulhaber in any of these
          locos. I think the 1319T7.7K motor would be big enough to repower the #11
          2-6-2, I think it might be marginally powerful enough to repower the #12
          2-8-2 . The 1331T11K would be plenty powerful enough for any of these models
          if you have the length in the boiler.
          All of the motors in this size range have 1.5 mm shafts.
          Samhongsa models virtually always have the worms pressed on the shafts, not
          soldered. LocoDoc


          In a message dated 3/21/2013 6:08:55 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
          marowicz@... writes:

          George,

          Installing DCC in a loco with running issues will not fix them. Remotoring
          is not as difficult as it might seem. I do not know this particular
          locomotive but most can motors have fixing centres and shaft diameters in common
          and you'll probably find that something like a Mashima will drop straight
          in. You need to check the shaft diameter which will either be 1.5 or 2.0 mm,
          probably the latter. Then it will be a case of unsoldering first the
          wires, then unscrewing the motor and unsoldering the worm gear (might by held on
          with a grub screw but not usually.) Easiest way to do thisis in the jaws
          of a resistance soldering unit, the motor just drops off. But a 50 watt or
          so soldering iron will also do the trick.
          The person to talk to is Wayne Weiss aka Locodoc, He's got motors. And
          provided you're happy with dismantling the loco and doing a little soldering
          then the task in not daunting whatsoever - about an hours work if that.

          Mark K

          --- In _HOn3@yahoogroups.com_ (mailto:HOn3@yahoogroups.com) , "George
          Pierson" <George.Pierson@...> wrote:
          But I'm wondering if any of you have successfully changed out the original
          motor for a better quality coreless motor or some such. What I'd like is
          smooth low-speed operation.
          >
          > Thanks!
          >
          > George Pierson
          >


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